Big Dave

I haven't driven my '85 since last fall. The battery died (old age...although it was on a maintainer) weeks ago. I replaced the battery today and turned the key. It won't start. I'm wondering if it's not getting fuel since I can't hear any noise coming the fuel pump while my 10 year old assistant turns the key.

I'm wondering if I should just start testing relays, or if it's possible that the dead battery and replacement may have triggered the kill feature of the stock alarm. Is there any "easy" way to make sure that the factory anti-theft system isn't cutting power to the fuel pump? The engine keeps turning but won't catch at all.

Thanks in advance. Gotta the the shark running for its piggy back ride back to Michigan in June (we're moving again).

dr bob

Dave--

Cycle the key in the driver's door lock to "reset" the alarm.

After that, normal no-start troubleshooting protocol applies.

-- Is there fuel in the tank?

-- Is the fuel pump running while you crank the engine on the starter? (You say not...)
. -- jumper the fuel pump relay in the CE panel. Socket 30 to socket 87 will put power directly to the fuel pump.
. -- The fuel pump power is fed from one of the additional connections at the battery positive terminal. Are those connections clean & tight? Easy to dislodge/loosen them while changing the battery.
. -- Ground for the fuel pump is in the spare wheel well area, as is the connector that feeds power to the pump. Verify that the connectors are well seated and the ground connections there are clean and tight.

I'll be going through the same spring-restart excitement in a few weeks. This is only its second hibernation during my almost 20-year stewardship period. Fingers crossed that all the pre-storage prep has helped it sleep peacefully and will allow a full awakening.

Big Dave

Thanks, Bob. Do you know where I can find photos of what I'm looking for? It's been a while since I dug around in there.

dr bob

Pretty easy. You know where the battery is, under the spare wheel in the rear. The positive end of the battery is the forward end in the car. The clamp for that positive cable has smaller wires connected to the clamp bolt. Make sure those ring connectors are shiny gray and the nut is snug.

Above that in the spare tire area, forward bulkhead, brown wires gather under a bolt into the body. Same deal, ring connectors shiny and the bolt is snug. In that same area there are connectors that can be unplugged and plugged back together a few times. The pins are "self wiping" so will clear any oxide layer that might be causing a problem.

I use a brass detailing 'toothbrush' to brighten those ring terminals. Many on the list here like to use "Deoxit" for cleaning the pin connectors.


Cars that have just been 'parked' without storage prep risk damage to fuel system components including injectors and the fuel pump. Tired gas, especially if it has any ethanol in it (most do) will varnish and sometimes corrode fuel system bits. You can add storage stabilizer products like Sta-bil before storage to reduce the risk. Once varnished up, no common additives will completely remove it.

Big Dave

I checked the connectors and they're clean and tight, although I can't find the grounds you described on the forward bulkhead.

I swapped the horn and pump relays. The horn works with either one, but still no start. Also checked the fuse and looks good.

I started it a few months ago. The only thing since then was a new battery after it sitting with a dead one for a couple months.

I could jumper the relay but assume that's pointless after swapping the relays.

I can't remember how loud the pump should sound or how long it should buzz when starting.

Cosmo Kramer

Swapping relays doesn't tell the whole story. Jump the fuel pump relay and see if it turns. If it turns and sounds normal check to see if the tach jumping when you are trying to start. If not the cps signal isn't getting through or being recognized by the LH. The pump is triggered by the LH once it sees a signal from the cps.

If it doesn't turn by jumping the relay, put 12v directly to the pump and see if it turns then. Could be seized from sitting.

Big Dave

I jumped the relay and could hear the pump buzzing nice and loud. Turned the key and let the starter spin for about 10 seconds. Nothing.

The tach does jump a bit when I first turn the key, maybe to about the 3rd line below the 1k rpm mark, but only for a moment before it rests again at the bottom while the starter is still engaged. Normal?

How long should I keep the starter going? Don't want to burn it out/damage it.

Assuming now that I do have fuel when its jumpered, what should I try next? I don't have any timing light or similar tools around to check for spark. Is there any easy way to check for spark without special tools?

Big Dave

I'm pretty certain it's not the alarm either. I armed it, triggered it (by unlocking a door through an open window and opening the door to hear the alarm begin, and then disarmed it with the key.

If it might be the LH, can that be bypassed with a relay jump, too?

Big Dave

Bump.

Tmm20

Check that you're not flooded. Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the car with your foot to the floor. Do not crank more than 15 seconds or you will seize the engine and end up with more problems like me.

Big Dave

Thanks, Tmm

Anyone else?

hwyengr

You can jump the LH relay, but that'll just power it up. If it's fried, or not getting a reliable signal from the CPS, it'll still won't start.

Was the battery hooked to the car when the maintainer was on?

Mrmerlin

replace this fuse and these relays one at a time
fuel pump fuse
XVI EZF
XX fuel pump
XXV LH
Verify the temp 2 sensor connector is good
Verify the TPS short harness connector is good above the water bridge

Big Dave

Thanks, Stan. I'll pick up some new relays locally and install them in that order, trying to start it after each change.

Big Dave

The battery was installed in the car, with a maintainer hooked to the jump post under the hood. Stored it that way for several winters without a problem.