Oil Leaks w/ Pictures
#1
Oil Leaks w/ Pictures
As mentioned before I believe I have an oil pan leak and a possibly a rear cam seal leak? Here are some pictures all around. I will also degrease everything and report back but right now I do think it is the oil pan (hopefully not the rear main seal) and the rear cam seals (not to familiar with this motor yet). Cheers.
#3
Team Owner
your starter wires appear to be mis routed, they should attach to the starter then go to the passenger side,
then loop back across the front of the starter along the cross member.
yours appear to be hanging below the starter this could catch on any low hanging obstacle..
NOTE the sway bar moves when the vehicle is moving so make sure the wires dont rub on the sway bar.
then loop back across the front of the starter along the cross member.
yours appear to be hanging below the starter this could catch on any low hanging obstacle..
NOTE the sway bar moves when the vehicle is moving so make sure the wires dont rub on the sway bar.
#4
#5
your starter wires appear to be mis routed, they should attach to the starter then go to the passenger side, then loop back across the front of the starter along the cross member. yours appear to be hanging below the starter this could catch on any low hanging obstacle.. NOTE the sway bar moves when the vehicle is moving so make sure the wires dont rub on the sway bar.
#7
I understand, I have an engine support bar ready for the job but I know there is some disconnecting components from the control arm set up, I'm assuming the wheels need to be free in the process
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#10
Rennlist Member
#11
Rennlist Member
I have had good results re pan leaks - remove all the pan bolts you can reach one at a time, clean the bolt threads and the hole as well as possible, fit a star washer (little teeth on the inside of the hole), a touch of Nutlock and refit, tightening carefully to spec - ~7 ftlb, with a suitably low range torque wrench. This should not squish the gasket out, and the washer and Loctite will help to keep the bolt firm.
I also replaced the gaskets on the rear of the cam housing, with a dab of Permatex No3 gasket goo. Still dry after a couple of years. Get everything as clean as possible and you will be able to see leaks quicker.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
I also replaced the gaskets on the rear of the cam housing, with a dab of Permatex No3 gasket goo. Still dry after a couple of years. Get everything as clean as possible and you will be able to see leaks quicker.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
#12
Chronic Tool Dropper
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PLEASE put the year of your car in every post. Consider the few dollars needed for Rennlist membership, so you can put that info in a signature line on every post. Until then, typing is your option.
All the 928 cars have "cam covers" of one sort or another. The 32V cars use a wide cover with an o-ring style seal that fits in a groove in the cover. I haven't removed the cam box or cover from a 16V car , so don't have specifics on what gaskets/seals they need. Someone will chime in I'm sure.
All the 928 cars have "cam covers" of one sort or another. The 32V cars use a wide cover with an o-ring style seal that fits in a groove in the cover. I haven't removed the cam box or cover from a 16V car , so don't have specifics on what gaskets/seals they need. Someone will chime in I'm sure.
#14
Nordschleife Master
16v cars don't have cam covers.
They have "cam towers." That is, the thingy that looks like a "valve cover" on a typical V8 is actually the part that houses the cams. Taking those off is pretty much an "engine out" job. It can be done in place, but my research showed that just about everyone who did it that way said it would have been easier to take the motor out and to it on a stand. Greg makes new & improved cam tower gaskets, Roger sells them.
There is a cover (PET calls it a "lid") on the back, and the cam housings (commonly called the "cam fronts") on the front. The rear piece has a gasket around it, the original is the paper/cardboard/"fiber" kind. Roger sells very nice replacement silicone ones (same stuff as the silicone Pan gasket). The Cam fronts take 2 O-rings (one on the cam front itself, one on the cam bearing) plus an oil passage seal, The dizzy housing also gets one.
Cam fronts & rear lids can be done in the car. Fronts are just like a TB/WP job, just going a bit further and taking the cam gears off, balanced off by not taking the WP out.
Passenger side lid is best done from the bottom. Mine was up on liftbars (those suckers are really cool). There's a bunch of air pump hoses and some wiring harness that make getting to the PS from the top very difficult. But reaching it from underneath is dead simple.
#15
Ok my mistake 16v 81'.
So cam end caps? It looks like the oil is only coming from either side to the rear of the these caps not from what I guess I called the valve cover.
Looks like three bolts and maybe a silicone gasket?
So cam end caps? It looks like the oil is only coming from either side to the rear of the these caps not from what I guess I called the valve cover.
Looks like three bolts and maybe a silicone gasket?