Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Crank + Rod Bearing Wear - 88 S4

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-24-2016, 07:58 AM
  #31  
Adamant1971
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Adamant1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,540
Received 1,149 Likes on 538 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by FredR

I have no idea why the OP stripped this motor or if he had any untoward signs of distress- perhaps he is just doing a systematic refresh as a matter of course.
The car sat for ten years and during this time the coolant leaked out via the rad. Engine was torn down due to partially dry head gaskets from improper storage and lack of coolant in the block.

It was a good thing as there was a huge amount of crystallized coolant around cylinder 3. And the head gaskets were shot.

Once the heads were off and engine out it just made sense to take it all the way.
Old 03-24-2016, 08:06 AM
  #32  
slate blue
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
slate blue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,318
Received 19 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Just adding points of order, so "regular" 928 people don't start thinking this is something they should be attempting.

Try to keep in mind that the OP is asking questions about what he should do with his stock bearings in his stock engine.
Agreed, please see response to Imo000 for more details, I was just sharing my observations really regarding this wear that occurs with highly grooved bearings.

In regard to your response stating that the bearings were designed for specific engines I accept that in principle but you need to look more closely at this 928 specific example.

N.B. I am not reducing the mains to 68 mm on a standard crank, there is no real point to that as the cost would be very high due to re-hardening the crank. So the changes are to be made to a bespoke piece.

However going back to a factory crank for a moment, the sole purpose of the groove in the main bearings is to oil the rod bearings. If I accept you assertion that the crank is drilled 170/190 degrees instead of 180 degrees it will still oil the rod bearings constantly when you have 220 degrees grooving on the main bearings.

However if you switch to 140 degree grooving the oiling is not so constant. It will be slightly interrupted but still oil the rod bearings for 280 degrees of rotation. That is a lot.

Then if we look at "Chevy or straight shot oiling" for which my research shows this 140 degree grooving is common. It means that the rods only get oil for 140 degrees of the 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation.

It doesn't seem like much when you look at the above example but that is all that is required for the rod bearings. So if a NASCAR engine or street LSX engine can live with 140 degrees of oiling I'm sure that the 928 could tolerate 280 degrees. The problem more lies in the super soft bearings used in the 928 rods. I just had my rods resized to accept the Toyota Supra race bearings which are much harder. They are going on the factory 928 crank using a 0.0015" clearance. It will run at least 20w-50 oil.

Incidentally the rod journals on that crank had some taper in them and needed regrinding, so soft rod bearings don't guarantee no wear either.
Old 03-24-2016, 11:16 AM
  #33  
FredR
Rennlist Member
 
FredR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Oman
Posts: 9,942
Received 768 Likes on 613 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Adamant1971
The car sat for ten years and during this time the coolant leaked out via the rad. Engine was torn down due to partially dry head gaskets from improper storage and lack of coolant in the block.

It was a good thing as there was a huge amount of crystallized coolant around cylinder 3. And the head gaskets were shot.

Once the heads were off and engine out it just made sense to take it all the way.
Wishing you every success in your endeavours- you were fortunate not to have severe corrosion at the top outer side of the cylinders by the sound of it.

When I acquired my current 928 GTS and transplanted my late S4 motor into the car we debated whether to strip the bottom end and eventually decided not to given the relatively low mileage and the apparently good condition of what we could see. 10 years on it seems we made a good decision.

Hopefully you can post something about how you select bearing tolerance sizes etc.

Regards

Fred



Quick Reply: Crank + Rod Bearing Wear - 88 S4



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 12:03 AM.