White "rust" on bolts. How to prevent, or correct?
04-07-2016, 07:26 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
I did not mean to imply that I was considering painting over them. I have heard stories of using any silicone type chemicals near a surface that may eventually be painted can cause issues with the finish , even if one believes they have cleaned that surface well.
04-07-2016, 08:34 PM
#33
I was very skeptical of this method at first, but one of our local guys swears by it, and then I started doing it, and I must admit, it really works.
A very light coating of WD-40 does a great job of sealing things up and preventing the oxidation from coming back.
Get a can of WD, protect your fenders, and give it a liberal dousing. Spray it everywhere in the engine bay. Then let it soak for a the better part of a day. When you come back, take a rag and wipe it down to gather any excess. re-hit any tough spots or places you might have missed previously. If you do this every year or two, you won't get that oxidation (or less of it).
A very light coating of WD-40 does a great job of sealing things up and preventing the oxidation from coming back.
Get a can of WD, protect your fenders, and give it a liberal dousing. Spray it everywhere in the engine bay. Then let it soak for a the better part of a day. When you come back, take a rag and wipe it down to gather any excess. re-hit any tough spots or places you might have missed previously. If you do this every year or two, you won't get that oxidation (or less of it).
Brian.
04-07-2016, 09:19 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
I use fluid film for that exact application. Although, in a really tough application (the steel chain in the weather on the gate opener at a house on the beach on windward oahu), even fluid film did not hold up very long. Motor oil REALLY holds up.
04-07-2016, 09:48 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
Silicone kill paint adhesion.
I spent several years of my life fighting that problem on aircraft.
One of our subs used a silicone mold release on large composite panels. Even after extensive, painstaking, cleaning, sanding, washing, et. al., ad nauseum, the paint film would literally blow off in flight...
I spent several years of my life fighting that problem on aircraft.
One of our subs used a silicone mold release on large composite panels. Even after extensive, painstaking, cleaning, sanding, washing, et. al., ad nauseum, the paint film would literally blow off in flight...
04-07-2016, 10:10 PM
#37
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
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I recently redyed my leather dash. Prep was cleaning, lacquer thinner moisturizer prep agent dye. I did the whole interior, lots of leather parts. Only failure I had was the center of the dash, contacted leatherique and thy said it was likely caused by silicone residue that survived the lacquer thinner. I've stripped the dash again and will be dying it this spring, hopefully I got it all this time.
Persistent stuff silicone
Persistent stuff silicone
04-07-2016, 10:24 PM
#38
Race Car
04-08-2016, 12:33 AM
#39
Racer
Thread Starter
Fluid Film seems to be working good. I bought a small container that includes a brush. Its ugly brown going on, but after the engine bay heats up, and it liquefies it leaves a nice sheen finish and has changed the ugly white rust to darker gray color. The coated gold bits look better as well. I will post updated pics tomorrow.