77 Euro #398, 5-speed
03-27-2016, 02:53 PM
#31
Racer
That's just like my car ( built 12/77, #148). Also, I'm going to scrap '79 #314 unles someone wants to adopt it.
Last edited by silbershark; 03-29-2016 at 08:22 PM.
03-28-2016, 05:40 PM
#32
The Parts Whisperer
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03-28-2016, 06:09 PM
#33
Instructor
Thread Starter
Unfortunately these are lenses for the fog lights, the one that is broke on mine is the high beam lens on the driver side.
03-28-2016, 06:49 PM
#35
Instructor
Thread Starter
03-29-2016, 10:45 AM
#36
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne. England
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40 Posts
Or as I did some years ago used this stuff with good results..,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-...-/221892443311
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Granville-...-/221892443311
04-08-2016, 06:54 PM
#39
Instructor
Thread Starter
re-keying glove box lock
Hi
Have seen a lot of good re-keying posts here, but never one of the glove box lock. Therefore I thought I would share how I at least got the cylinder out.
To separate the "handle" with the lock from the base I used a needle nose pliers. And I padded it with some protection to not leave any marks. Then after inserting it as deep as possible I carefully pulled the pliers apart.
Next you need a special pilers to get the "lock-ring" off. Sorry for my bad English when it comes to the tools, not sure what you call it over there
The rest is Quite good covered in other threads here, so will not document that part
Have seen a lot of good re-keying posts here, but never one of the glove box lock. Therefore I thought I would share how I at least got the cylinder out.
To separate the "handle" with the lock from the base I used a needle nose pliers. And I padded it with some protection to not leave any marks. Then after inserting it as deep as possible I carefully pulled the pliers apart.
Next you need a special pilers to get the "lock-ring" off. Sorry for my bad English when it comes to the tools, not sure what you call it over there
The rest is Quite good covered in other threads here, so will not document that part
Last edited by Jørn; 11-16-2017 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Fixed links
04-08-2016, 07:07 PM
#40
Instructor
Thread Starter
re-keying glove box lock cont.
I would also like to share som knowledge I gained from performing this opearation.
I found out what is the difference between the red auxiliary key that from the factory worked in all locks besides the glove box. And the black master key that worked in all locks.
If you see the picture below and zoom in you will see that even with all tumbler pins out, the lock requires the key to have a 45-deg angle cut on one of sides that runs down the center track of the key. My original red key has 90deg angles on both sides of the center track, and thus will not work in the lock, while master keys have 45deg angle on one of the sides in the middle track of the key. Hard to explain in my poor English
So actually it ended up with the re-key not being necessary, because when I ordered a master key from keys4classics based on my auxiliary red key, it turns out that number is a match with the number on my glove box. So the only reason I had no key which worked was that it was the auxiliary one.
Good thing is now I have learned a bit of re-keying, because I need to do both my door-locks and some time in the far future the ignition lock.
I found out what is the difference between the red auxiliary key that from the factory worked in all locks besides the glove box. And the black master key that worked in all locks.
If you see the picture below and zoom in you will see that even with all tumbler pins out, the lock requires the key to have a 45-deg angle cut on one of sides that runs down the center track of the key. My original red key has 90deg angles on both sides of the center track, and thus will not work in the lock, while master keys have 45deg angle on one of the sides in the middle track of the key. Hard to explain in my poor English
So actually it ended up with the re-key not being necessary, because when I ordered a master key from keys4classics based on my auxiliary red key, it turns out that number is a match with the number on my glove box. So the only reason I had no key which worked was that it was the auxiliary one.
Good thing is now I have learned a bit of re-keying, because I need to do both my door-locks and some time in the far future the ignition lock.
Last edited by Jørn; 11-16-2017 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Fixed links
04-08-2016, 09:34 PM
#41
Burning Brakes
Very good write up, and interesting about the keys! Thanks for documenting this! i have some key work to do at some point have to dive in...most of my cars have multiple keys..
04-09-2016, 01:24 PM
#44
Nordschleife Master
Thank you. That's a nice writeup.
Your English is better than some people on other forums I participate in.
The "Lock Ring" (post 39, pic 3) is called a "snap ring" and the special pliers are called "snap ring pliers".
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...ap+ring+pliers
Your English is better than some people on other forums I participate in.
The "Lock Ring" (post 39, pic 3) is called a "snap ring" and the special pliers are called "snap ring pliers".
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...ap+ring+pliers
04-09-2016, 07:07 PM
#45
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thank you. That's a nice writeup.
Your English is better than some people on other forums I participate in.
The "Lock Ring" (post 39, pic 3) is called a "snap ring" and the special pliers are called "snap ring pliers".
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...ap+ring+pliers
Your English is better than some people on other forums I participate in.
The "Lock Ring" (post 39, pic 3) is called a "snap ring" and the special pliers are called "snap ring pliers".
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...ap+ring+pliers
In Norwegian the "snap ring" is "låsering" or "seegering".