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Old 02-22-2016, 08:50 PM
  #46  
Jersey_Sam
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Originally Posted by docmirror
Thanks not needed or requested.


sigh.........

will perform the list and report back here.
Old 02-22-2016, 10:02 PM
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James Bailey
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Sorry Sam but you failed lesson number 1 .... pinch bolt has nothing to do with running. And odds are you will need an engine or at least a shortblock. But you knew that when you bought the project.
Old 02-22-2016, 10:10 PM
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Jersey_Sam
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Originally Posted by James Bailey
Sorry Sam but you failed lesson number 1 .... pinch bolt has nothing to do with running. And odds are you will need an engine or at least a shortblock. But you knew that when you bought the project.
you're right, i knew that i needed an engine. no surprises there.
i guess the pinch bolt has nothing to do with the engine running. no biggie...

I will get the tools, measure and post back.
Old 02-22-2016, 11:08 PM
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vetter59
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nice looking SWB 912!, do you have the correct front seats for it? - I know here some from a '67 are
Old 02-23-2016, 12:00 AM
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Jersey_Sam
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Originally Posted by vetter59
nice looking SWB 912!, do you have the correct front seats for it? - I know here some from a '67 are
thanks!
i do, they're in the basement, being upholstered. meanwhile, i threw in these comfy ones for longer rides.

Sam
Old 02-29-2016, 10:23 PM
  #51  
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Had some rainy days... Anyway, with the help of Stan (MrMerlin, thank you again), we confirmed today that the end play was within specs. 0.10mm and 0.11mm were the values after prying the flywheel in both directions.

BIG relief... I have had the car running for almost fifteen minutes a couple of days ago, after draining the fuel tank.
Big mistake was that i power washed the engine, after spraying it with engine de-greaser (white foam), and then added a few ounces of B12 Chem tool (orange can) into the fuel tank. The exhaust was letting out white thick smoke.

I drained the fuel tank three times since and the smoke is gone now.

I pulled some plugs (couldnt get to all of them) and the tips were black and sooty. So a quick clean with the wheel brush and dropped them back in and it ran a bit better.

I ordered plugs, oil filter, engine oil, anti freeze. So the next step is to drain all the fluids. Also Stan recommended removing the plenums and clearing them from fuilds/water.

So, any advice is welcome as to what is next, in terms of parts replacement...

I pulled the back plug for the rear coupler and will adjust the bolt like Stan advised. Then i will move to the front, and pry the flywheel backwards, install the bolt (i ordered one today) and torque it to 65 lb/ft.

Four tires are also on their way. Brakes will be checked soon. i can do the usual maintenance.

What fuel hoses should be replaced? Ive seen horrific pictures of engines on fire. I will also go over the ground cables and clean them/replace them.

Anything else im missing?
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Old 02-29-2016, 11:12 PM
  #52  
hlee96
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Hi Sam, congratulations in having it run! How about fuel filter, Greg Brown Fuel hoses, stainless steel brake hoses, and read up on brake refinishing by Dwayne (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...one-place.html).

Also a good time in Deoxit the CE panel and cleaning the contacts and ground points?
Old 02-29-2016, 11:23 PM
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Jersey_Sam
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Hoi!

Good to hear from you. Noted the above items.

Thanks.
Old 03-01-2016, 12:00 AM
  #54  
Wisconsin Joe
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The best fuel lines come from Greg Brown. Lifetime guarantee. I think Roger sells them.

The best advice I can give you for what to do next is to listen to Stan. That will pretty much keep you doing the right things.
Old 03-01-2016, 12:06 AM
  #55  
Don Carter
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Sam,

Glad you got it running, but from the symptoms you mentioned, you may still have a problem. Cutting open the filter is probably the most important thing to do next. As someone else pointed out, S3's rarely have TBF, so maybe you'll get lucky. If not, look for a complete used engine on Ebay, CL or salvage yards. (Why mess with installing heads and everything else if you don't need to). They are generally cheaper that S4 engines. Good luck!
Old 03-01-2016, 12:15 AM
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Thanks Don.

I read your thread first when i joined this forum.

You are definitely right about Stan,he has helpedme a lot, and has been very patient with me. Hes the best.

As far as engines go, i almost bought a complete running engine last week from 928 intl, but was advised to hold off and do a few checks meanwhile.

Stan will be checking my car in a couple of weeks, once it gets running. I will drive it over there, and he will take a good look at it, and advise from there, mabye tweek a couple of things on it, replace some parts, who knows.

At least i feel very safe knowing that Stan is across the river, a fifteen minute drive by car.

Glad to be back here with an almost running car.

I purchased a pinch bolt today from Roger, had i known i needed the lines, i would have added them to the list, as i paid $5 shipping for a bolt!

Oh well, no biggie. im sure ill have a lot of parts to purchase.

Sam
Old 03-01-2016, 12:18 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe
The best fuel lines come from Greg Brown. Lifetime guarantee. I think Roger sells them.

The best advice I can give you for what to do next is to listen to Stan. That will pretty much keep you doing the right things.

YOu are absolutely right about that!

sam
Old 03-01-2016, 06:23 AM
  #58  
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If Stan is that close, I'd just load that car right back on that trailer...and drop it off. Without the correct tools (metric line wrenches), soaking (penetrating oil) or knowledge (what to do when all else fails or how "not to" make matters worse)...those fuel lines along the exhaust manifold on the passenger side...can be a real bastar* to get a part. If you destroy those steel fuel lines, either in front or to the rear of those rubber hoses...you are in for a very long and expensive endeavor.

Good luck, and hopefully you have this baby straighten around soon.

Brian.
Old 07-15-2016, 04:17 PM
  #59  
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Any updates?



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