howdog928

In the process of changing out the 2 hood washer nozzles for some nice new ones from Roger. 2 issues I'm running into:

1) Driver's side went fine, exact replacement. Looked at the passenger side and seeing 3 wires not 2. Not sure what the white wire is or where it goes, but the black and browns are what I have on the replacement nozzle setup.

Can I just change it out and lose the white wire connection? What am I losing by doing that?

2) Also on the passenger side, there is an extra hose that comes from the reservoir bottle on the driver's side top corner, but is not connected to anything on the other side of the cover. What is supposed to be connected there?

Pics attached. Any enlightenment would be great, thanks guys.

James Bailey

better answer below...

ammonman

IIRC the nozzles only have two wires, power and ground, for the heaters. The plug for the passenger side also contains the power lead for the under-hood light. You will need to release the wire terminals from the three pole plug, un-thread the power wire for the light out of the sheath and then fish it down through the sheath of the new nozzle before re-inserting all three terminal ends back into the plug. Your local parts house or perhaps Radio Shack will have the correct tool to release the terminals from the plug housing.

Looks like someone has been in there before you and disconnected the fluid hose for the intensive washer fluid circuit. PET has a good illustration of all the hose and check valve connections if you wish to put the intensive circuit back in service.

Mike

howdog928

Thanks Mike,
Makes sense on the white wire going to the hood light. Another one that hasn't been working! Now will be the time to fix it.
I found the PET diagram for the washer system & see how the hoses should be. She's been a dry weather queen so I don't remember how functional the washers, etc have been! I do want to get it back to full working order. How easy is it to get the hoses out of the hood?

ammonman

Really easy to get the hoses out just be sure to tie a cord/string to the hose ends once disconnected from the washer nozzles. This makes fishing the new hose/check valve assembly back in a snap.

Mike

Bucko74

Just stripped my hood back for repainting and I can confirm its definitely the line to the hood light.

dr bob

WYAIT, the hose itself is cheap, and new looks a lot better -- White cording in black hose, vs. the yellowy-light brown cording in the old dark brown hose. You are replacing the crispy plastic Y connectors and the rusted/plugged check valves anyway, right? A few meters of hose should do it, and your favorite suppliers carry it for you. I used small plastic cable ties as hose clamps for the connections under the hood, JIC!

howdog928

Thanks guys for the insight.
Ammonman, good tip on the string to feed the new lines in.
Bucko74, thanks for confirming the light wire.
Dr Bob, yes, the hardened hoses definitely caught my eye when looking at it. 25 years old, time for a change! I'll replace the whole setup, hoses, valves and connectors while I'm in there.

On a similar note, the wipers have always been really slow when I've used them. Any thoughts on if that's just needing a new wiper motor or anything else it could be?

ROG100

The intensive wash really complicates what should be a very simple system. As most do not use the intensive wash it is very easy to remove it and simplify the system. All those junctions and none return valves add up $ wise.
I can send you the simple system as used on the GTS cars 92 to 95 - saves a lot of money and messing about. For originality just leave the intensive washer bottler in place.

jbrob007

Hi Howard! Don't mean to hijack your thread, but ROGER do you have a schematic of the GTS system you could post? We're installing my 84 washer system and deleting the intensive washer as well. It would make life a whole lot easier for both of us...

Now back to your regularly scheduled program...

Thanks, Joel

ROG100

GTS System

jbrob007

You are DA MAN! Thanks Rog!!

dr bob

The wipers drive through a little gearbox/transmission that's stuffed with grease that's hardened a bit since it was put in there only thirty years or so ago. Grease is a mix of a lubricant and a soap to thicken it up. Seems like the lubricant part gets tired and leaves home, so we are left with a thick mostly-soap cake that no longer flows where it's needed.

Remove the whole wiper linkage with the motor and transmission. Take a few pictures to remind yourself how it all looks assembled. Then carefully disassemble the arms, cleaning and ultimately lubricating them where they move. The transmission gets a little extra care, since the arm needs to stay indexed to the switch that includes the 'park' position. Not a big deal, just something to think about as you pull the cover off. Scoop out the old cake of what used to be grease, and clean everything thoroughly with a mild solvent (Not Brake Cleaner) to get the last bits out. Replace with your favorite #2 grease, reassemble, reinstall. I buy (14oz grease-gun) tubes of Mobil-1 synthetic grease as my general lubricant of choice for this stuff.


Assuming the little worm gear in the transmission isn't too worn, new grease will restore a lot of the original vigor to the operation. With proper lubrication of the bushings at the arms and the pins, it will also solve a lot of wiper "chatter" issues along the way.

dr bob

Pictures worth 1k words...

howdog928

Awesome info Dr Bob. I guess this will be a full overhaul. Very much needed it seems.
Thanks Rog for the later diagram. As mentioned in our email, looks like exactly what has been done at some point in the past.