Low cost MINI-STARTER
01-18-2016, 10:51 PM
#16
Another thing is that the teeth on the generic ones are not wide enough and when fully engaged they only cover 2/3's of the teeth on the flywheel. So the one that I worked with them on has a super wide gear and fully engages the flywheel with plenty of room on each side so you don't tear up the flywheel. They do have more torque which I needed for my stroker engine due to the higher compression but also the motec needs a faster starting RPM.
01-18-2016, 10:53 PM
#17
There a so many better things about the starter that Sterling developed with IMI that it is difficult to know where to start.
1. The starter sits directly below the crankshaft....in the center of the oil pan. This allows much more clearance for headers and also centers the weight.
2. Unlike most of the low weight starters, which sound like you are starting a Toyota, this starter sounds "beefy" and proper.
3. The power wire is moved. The "other" IMI starters that we used to use sandwiched the positive post between the oil pan and the starter....so close that we were required to shorten the stud and even grind down the nut to provide even minimal clearance. It was still scary.
4. They are super reliable. I've never had a single issue or had to replace one. I've had terrible problems with the reliability of the rebuilt Bosch starters....to the point where I warn customers that they may not work. At one point in time the reliability on the rebuilt Bosch starters was so bad that I stopped installing them completely and was only installing used original starters.
As far as I'm concerned, this is a fantastic product and I'd like to personally thank Sterling for going to the effort of doing this!
1. The starter sits directly below the crankshaft....in the center of the oil pan. This allows much more clearance for headers and also centers the weight.
2. Unlike most of the low weight starters, which sound like you are starting a Toyota, this starter sounds "beefy" and proper.
3. The power wire is moved. The "other" IMI starters that we used to use sandwiched the positive post between the oil pan and the starter....so close that we were required to shorten the stud and even grind down the nut to provide even minimal clearance. It was still scary.
4. They are super reliable. I've never had a single issue or had to replace one. I've had terrible problems with the reliability of the rebuilt Bosch starters....to the point where I warn customers that they may not work. At one point in time the reliability on the rebuilt Bosch starters was so bad that I stopped installing them completely and was only installing used original starters.
As far as I'm concerned, this is a fantastic product and I'd like to personally thank Sterling for going to the effort of doing this!
Greg,
I was happy to do it... that is a real compliment coming from you. I just got tired of seeing the generic ones not installed properly and finally got IMI to work with me after sending them dozens of pics of them installed on different cars in different ways and also I have to give Louie Ott some credit as he took the generic one and modded it to move the wire...
01-19-2016, 01:11 AM
#19
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^^^ What he said. In our case more like 4 years, working great. I would be very careful of the generic IMI 928 starter, there have been a variety of clocking and terminal orientations. As Greg said you want the Sterling version.
01-19-2016, 07:44 AM
#20
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For my big 7L engine I like to modify the oil sump making it 30mm maybe 35mm (appr. 1.250") deeper. It would be possible with a slight modification of the front cross member probably also a slight rise of the engine (higher motor mounts). Furthermore the sump has to be modified to make room for the mini starter motor. The benefits will be lower oil level and improved bay to bay pressure equalization.
Question: I think I have seen somebody installing the starter motor reversed, in order words behind the flywheel. The benefit will be no need to modify the oil sump, just to put in a 1.250" spacer. I have not had the opportunity to go under the car for a closer look if there will be an issue with headers etc.
If anyone can provide information about reversed installation of the starter motor it will be most appreciated. I have search for a link but not found anything.
Åke
Question: I think I have seen somebody installing the starter motor reversed, in order words behind the flywheel. The benefit will be no need to modify the oil sump, just to put in a 1.250" spacer. I have not had the opportunity to go under the car for a closer look if there will be an issue with headers etc.
If anyone can provide information about reversed installation of the starter motor it will be most appreciated. I have search for a link but not found anything.
Åke
01-19-2016, 09:36 AM
#21
for a manual the 1st thing you will run into is the clutch. Literally. The other thing is that there isn't much room for headers and exhaust in that area. I just cant see that being a workable solution.
Between working on this starter project, and modifying the headers to be tucked into this area I have spent quite a bit of time and know this area quite well.
Between working on this starter project, and modifying the headers to be tucked into this area I have spent quite a bit of time and know this area quite well.
01-20-2016, 05:02 AM
#22
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I raised the engine by installing two very large washers between cross member and motor mounts. The bolt of motor mount is long enough to lift mounts few millimeters higher.
The diameter of used washer was as wide as bottom of the motor mount, so it supports the motor mount very well.
Did this for better header fitment, motor mounts were new.
The diameter of used washer was as wide as bottom of the motor mount, so it supports the motor mount very well.
Did this for better header fitment, motor mounts were new.
01-30-2016, 09:35 PM
#24
IMI shows three starters for Porsche:
http://www.hitorque.com/Genuine_High...rsche_s/27.htm
Not too clear which one would fit a 928, much less if its the one Sterling had a hand in or not.
Perhaps those in the know could provide us less knowledgeable folks some details and/or links to find the correct one & pricing, if Sterlings version is still available? Thanks.
http://www.hitorque.com/Genuine_High...rsche_s/27.htm
Not too clear which one would fit a 928, much less if its the one Sterling had a hand in or not.
Perhaps those in the know could provide us less knowledgeable folks some details and/or links to find the correct one & pricing, if Sterlings version is still available? Thanks.
05-09-2016, 02:02 PM
#25
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Looking to buy one of these - who is currently selling and/or what is the correct IMI part number?
05-09-2016, 02:25 PM
#26
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I've got 2 used IMI 101 starters - $100 each
and 2 generic ones $40 each
I have no idea if the generic ones fit or where they came from
and 2 generic ones $40 each
I have no idea if the generic ones fit or where they came from
05-09-2016, 05:42 PM
#27
I think I would like the oily one if its the one that we are supposed to have for the 928.
05-09-2016, 06:47 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
The generic one will fit after you re clock them and also re engineer the electrical connection , which I have the capability to do here , I run 2 currently , one on a highly used track GT and the other on our developing race car , they are both very reliable units and the compact nature makes them ideal ,for the situation as GB indicated .
05-09-2016, 07:27 PM
#29
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05-09-2016, 08:13 PM
#30
Drifting
