Engine Out WYAIT List
01-13-2016, 11:33 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Engine Out WYAIT List
What are the common items to address in the engine bay while the engine's out?
So far I have:
What else should I be doing?
So far I have:
- Coolant Reservoir
- Heater Hose
- Master Cylinder Reservoir Grommets
- Motor Mounts (replaced 15k miles ago)
- Cleaning (though my bay looks better than most)
What else should I be doing?
01-13-2016, 01:01 PM
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Consider removing the AC lines and having the rubber sections rebuilt with new barrier hose. These are the most difficult parts of any AC reseal effort. Important to have a tight system regardless of which refrigerant you use.
Blue Hose if you have a manual transmission, along with clutch master cylinder rebuild. Much easier (read: possible) to get to while sitting on the crossmember with the engine out.
The steel Y coolant pipe that runs along the right (passenger side on US cars) inner fender wall tends to deteriorate over time if the coolant hasn't been religiously refreshed throughout the car's lifetime. You get to see all three ends with the engine removal and coolant hose replacement. If it's been attacked by the corrosion devils, now's the time to replace it.
When you replace the small coolant/heater hoses, take care to align the clamps for future access with the engine in place. Particularly the clamps at the rear of the Y pipe and at the bottom of the coolant reservoir (normally accessed from under the car...), these clamps will undoubtedly need to be accessed for hose replacement before the engine comes out again.
The upper control arms need replacement if they are original. 928 International has them rebuilt with new bushings and balljoint. This is the easiest access you'll ever have to the upper control shaft fixing nuts inside the inner fender wall. Plus the improvement in ride and handling with new bushings is amazing; along with LCA replacement, makes it a new car again!
Of course: clean-clean-clean, wax-wax-wax, and have any plated parts refurbished while you can, etc.
Blue Hose if you have a manual transmission, along with clutch master cylinder rebuild. Much easier (read: possible) to get to while sitting on the crossmember with the engine out.
The steel Y coolant pipe that runs along the right (passenger side on US cars) inner fender wall tends to deteriorate over time if the coolant hasn't been religiously refreshed throughout the car's lifetime. You get to see all three ends with the engine removal and coolant hose replacement. If it's been attacked by the corrosion devils, now's the time to replace it.
When you replace the small coolant/heater hoses, take care to align the clamps for future access with the engine in place. Particularly the clamps at the rear of the Y pipe and at the bottom of the coolant reservoir (normally accessed from under the car...), these clamps will undoubtedly need to be accessed for hose replacement before the engine comes out again.
The upper control arms need replacement if they are original. 928 International has them rebuilt with new bushings and balljoint. This is the easiest access you'll ever have to the upper control shaft fixing nuts inside the inner fender wall. Plus the improvement in ride and handling with new bushings is amazing; along with LCA replacement, makes it a new car again!
Of course: clean-clean-clean, wax-wax-wax, and have any plated parts refurbished while you can, etc.
01-13-2016, 06:29 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The steel Y coolant pipe that runs along the right (passenger side on US cars) inner fender wall tends to deteriorate over time if the coolant hasn't been religiously refreshed throughout the car's lifetime. You get to see all three ends with the engine removal and coolant hose replacement. If it's been attacked by the corrosion devils, now's the time to replace it.
When you replace the small coolant/heater hoses, take care to align the clamps for future access with the engine in place. Particularly the clamps at the rear of the Y pipe and at the bottom of the coolant reservoir (normally accessed from under the car...), these clamps will undoubtedly need to be accessed for hose replacement before the engine comes out again.
The upper control arms need replacement if they are original. 928 International has them rebuilt with new bushings and balljoint. This is the easiest access you'll ever have to the upper control shaft fixing nuts inside the inner fender wall. Plus the improvement in ride and handling with new bushings is amazing; along with LCA replacement, makes it a new car again!
Of course: clean-clean-clean, wax-wax-wax, and have any plated parts refurbished while you can, etc.
01-13-2016, 06:31 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
PS Hose is a good one, though I'd mentally noted it. Is that hose readily available or do I need to send it for rebuild?
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01-14-2016, 06:54 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
No compression in #8, leaking heavily into the exhaust when at TDC and compressed air applied. Got it pulled on Sunday evening and stripped down to the point where the head can be pulled tomorrow or over the weekend. I only had a couple of days before Christmas to decide what to do and went ahead and bought a motor from Mark that turns out used to belong to Brendan (BC) that apparently was very strong before the car was wrecked. Jeff and I hauled it up from Anaheim last week after we dropped off his car with Greg. Still not 100% sure what I'm going to do next. Was leaning towards a quick cleanup and re-seal of BC's motor that could be dropped in while taking my time on my motor but that's going to depend on what we find when we open it up. Would obviously love it if you can make it down to help with the disassembly and prognosis.
