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I'm also in the process of completely rewiring the charging system (ground straps - engine/battery, positive cable to starter, and engine harness from Sean R). Here were my initial readings for the stock H5 bulbs. I'll take another reading on them with the new wiring, once that's complete. All testing will be done on the new wiring, to eliminate variability or confounding results from inconsistent test setups.
Subjective Phone-Camera image of LB light output.<br/>(old wiring - no direct power)
Subjective Phone-Camera image of LB light output.<br/>40ft Test Distance (old wiring - no direct power)
These bulbs are surprisingly inexpensive; it looks like these are the same units as in the original post in this thread, and available at Amazon for $78.99:
I'm rather inclined to pick up a pair of these to replace my older H4 LED units, just because it looks like it will be way easier to develop a one-piece sealing cap for these (see Building a replacement cap for sealing headlamps after converting to HID or LED), since the heat sink is removable. And the passive heat sinks (vs. the fans in the bulbs I have now) are a big plus, too.
The '82 has a set I bought from Zims about 12 years ago: PN 928 631 921 00.
The '89 has a set I bought from Roger a couple of years ago: PN 928 631 101 03.
Both sets have exactly the same markings on the front of the lenses. The set in the '82, however lacks the "nipple" at the top of the lens and is labeled "BOSCH" in the bottom center of both lenses. The set in the '89 has the "nipple" and is labeled a stylized "AL" on one lens and BOSCH on the other.
So, there are at least two part numbers for LHD H4 lenses.
By the way, I was able to sell my S4 H5's on ebay for about $300 (IIRC) and thus, recouped about half the cost of the H4's...
These bulbs are surprisingly inexpensive; it looks like these are the same units as in the original post in this thread, and available at Amazon for $78.99:
I'm rather inclined to pick up a pair of these to replace my older H4 LED units, just because it looks like it will be way easier to develop a one-piece sealing cap for these (see Building a replacement cap for sealing headlamps after converting to HID or LED), since the heat sink is removable. And the passive heat sinks (vs. the fans in the bulbs I have now) are a big plus, too.
I did get these and received the shipment on Friday. They're almost identical to the ones in the original post. The only difference I note is that the body of the bulbs is silver on the ones I got, not black as the ones in the original post.
Very strange packaging. I was surprised when I saw this:
What kind of weird packaging is that? The box was wrapped in black plastic, and then all sorts of cheap yellow tape wrapped around that. Very strange.
Could these be used in the 7" H4 e-code lights that are available, as well as the stock Euro 8" H4 housings? An H4 bulb is an H4 bulb, in terms of fitment, I assume...
The LED bulbs work great in the 8" H4 housing, but need a little tweaking (adjustment) to get an optimal beam pattern. The set-screw is a fantastic feature that really lets you dial it in with forward/back and rotational adjustments.
I haven't finished the direct-wire power relay setup yet, but will post my light output readings when the parts all come in. I haven't taken them to my test spot for a light reading yet.
I did install them for a night, and light output was visually excellent. I didn't keep them installed because I don't want the lenses and reflectors to be exposed to the elements without the backing plate. So, full installation is pending the creation of a backing plate that will work with these bulbs and adequately seal the reflector from the elements.
You're correct that the direct-wire setup will not affect the brightness of the LED. Even though the LEDs are regulated, it's still ideal to get as close to a constant voltage to them as possible. The stock setup is subject to all the other loads that can be put on the system (Radio, A/C, blower motor, turn signals, etc), so this will also prolong the life of the regulator and ballast.
Also, the direct power setup uses relays which allows for high AND low beams to operate simultaneously... so there is another potential benefit. I'm still not sure on the heat output of running high/low beams at the same time. While messing with the alignment of the bulbs, I noticed they still got very hot to the touch in the few minutes they were on between adjustments. It would be very unfortunate (and possibly disastrous) to melt the H4 lens or light pod (or plastic back cover that we develop for these LED bulbs and 3D print, which is most likely since it's right next to the bulb heat sink).
The goal is to compare the best halogen setup I can get to the LED bulbs, to see if the switch is worthwhile. If an LED goes out, they are only available in pairs... and based on history, the design of the LED housing is constantly evolving. That is a lot more expensive than a Sylvania or Philips bulb from the local parts shop, and not immediately available if one goes out and you need a replacement while on the road. Also, the stock back cover cannot be used with the LED, until we model up a back cover that can accept the longer base of the LED housing... and I just mentioned the potential problems with a plastic part next to a heat sink.
So, for those of us that aren't interested in a custom H4 back cover to accommodate the ever-changing LED design, this study will still be relevant. What is available today, may not be available tomorrow... potentially making those custom covers a temporary solution at best. I personally wouldn't run a headlight without the back cover to protect the reflector from the elements, though others might not have issue with that.
The relay/fuse connectors arrived from overseas today, so I hope to begin construction next week. After work today I'll go to Home Depot for some 1/2" aluminum flat to make the brackets.
Brackets and hardware fitting done. These brackets will attach to the metal headlight yoke with an 'L' bracket and nuts/screws. Next step is wiring them up.
Last edited by traxtar928; 06-09-2016 at 07:13 PM.
USA regulations, had at one stage a limit on headlight output. So as to not blind an oncoming driver, but you get to drive off the roads because you cant see.....maybe a way to slow you boys down!
Its a common complaint on many USA cars vs Euro versions.
IMHO, no point direct wiring LEDS. No harm in it, either :-)) The current draw of an LED is lower isn't it? I have a set of LEDs in my Ducati 907
In the past the battery warning beep would always come on ,, even when I tried HID [BAD BAD!!], where with the LED its not an issue.
Isn't that why we all want LED door light so the battery doesn't go flat?
The dual-stage would ONLY be during hi-beam operation, so blinding oncoming traffic is a non-issue.
As for the LED being a worthwhile upgrade, we'll just have to see what the results of testing say. Based on my bench results, it's going to be a huge improvement over a halogen bulb. There is no warning light, as the LED ballast tricks any sensor into thinking there is a halogen bulb.
I'm saying that the LED bulbs do not make the 'headlight out' light illuminate. Current draw should be extremely low, but I don't know what it is. As long as my warning lights work, I'm happy. I haven't experimented with what happens when the connector is disconnected or if the 'headlight out' light will illuminate if the LED stops working... but that's not a huge concern for me.
05-27-2016, 02:44 PM
