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Guys with 4-post car lifts in their garages. I have questions
Hey guys, I'm looking to install a 4 post car stacking solution in my garage. I noticed a few of you are using them for 928's. Just wondering the specs of your garage and the cars you're using on the lift?
I have the Back Yard Buddy Brand lift in my garage.
As far as specs, they are the extended version of the lift. I use a set of "Race Ramps" which are 40" long and drastically reduce the approach angle for getting the car on the ramp. And the ramps weight about 3 lbs each vs. 15 lbs or so, for steel.
My garage is 26 ft deep, which allows me to (currently) keep the lift about 6' from the back wall and then have the roll up door avoid the top car while stored.
The ceiling of my garage is 10' tall. It's find to store a 928 and a sedan underneath.
I am converting the ceiling light (which is right above the car) to can lights, more to the sides. That, and convert to a lift master torsion drive lift motor.
By changing light locations and door motor, I can then lift the track of the door overall by another 12" - 14" and gain some piece of mind. It's close, now.
I hope this has given you some points to consider.
I looked at all the other designs and decided the BYB lift was for me. With redundant safety catches and a unique, sleeved design, it's much sturdier than any other 4 post lift I looked at. And made in the United States of America, not Chinese steel or assembly.
I'd be glad to help with any other questions, if needed.
Ceiling is 10' 1", and I park my 928 and my 2008 SAAB 9-5 Aero Wagon above or below.
The SABB's antenna touches the roof. When the 928 is on top I have about 3" of clearance and about 1" above the SAAB.
I built swing out garage doors automated by gate openers so I can go right to the ceiling with the cars
Also I moved the lights to the outside edges of the ceiling, long flourecent tubes On each side and at the front. This helps light the garage well when a car is on the lift.
I got my lift from directlift.
2 928's in their at the moment, one on jack stands.
Garage is 3 stalls with dimensions ~34' wide, 23' deep, and ~11' high. Converted door openers to side-shaft (jackshaft) openers.
Lift: Bendpak HD-9 b/c the biggest car I will use on the lift is the minivan during work on it. I would not store the minivan on either below or on the lift, so I do not need the extra high lifting capabilities of their other HD-9 lifts.
Currently, I have my '78 Porsche 928 with its engine out on the lift and park either my '89 928 or my 335xi below it.
I would highly recommend spending money to get aluminum ramps (much lighter), rolling jack lifts to make doing wheels, tires, suspension, brakes much easier. Also the oil drain containers that elevates the catch to make oil changes a no brainer.
4 posts do not need to be anchored due to simple geometry of it. Of course, it requires a good installer with properly graded garage floor take into consideration.
4 posts do not need to be anchored due to simple geometry of it. Of course, it requires a good installer with properly graded garage floor take into consideration.
Our 14,000# Bendpak 4 post is bolted to the floor simply because we have a goodly drop in the floor for drainage. I have 6" of spacer plates on one end to make it level.
Direct Lift 4 post extra height. Toy barn portion of the building is +/- 2k SF. The 928 is on the lift until I decide it's ready to come off.
I have no hesitation to park any vehicle under the lift. I have parked my Range Rover and F car, as well as the ranch pickup and a little commute car the better half uses at times.
I will not put a convertible under it as I don't want any drips on the canvas roof of my Aston or any other convertible for that matter.
Lift is NOT bolted to the floor as we could have an earthquake and the lift could shear and that's a bad thing even if everything is insured.
I will be buying another lift like this one as they are excellent in a garage and it can handle a large vehicle on or below the ramps.
Best $$ I spent in the toy box to date... Bad thing is once you have 1 lift, it's never enough...........
what about work requiring tire removal? Also, did you guys have to reinforce the floor under the posts, like you would with a two post lift? (min 6" concrete with rebar?)
what about work requiring tire removal? Also, did you guys have to reinforce the floor under the posts, like you would with a two post lift? (min 6" concrete with rebar?)
I built sliding crossmembers out of steel square tubing. They slide inside each other for width and slide along the tracks on the lift itself for position anywhere under the vehicle. I know you can purchase lifting devices that do this from Bendpac but they were half again the cost of the lift. Fabricating things is kind of theraputic.
Use a jack to jack it up and put jack stands under. This winter's project is fabricating lift bars and a lift to pic up at factory lift points with pads for jack stands (for double safety).
Yes I know the jack stands aren't on the proper set points. I'll get that done this winter.
what about work requiring tire removal? Also, did you guys have to reinforce the floor under the posts, like you would with a two post lift? (min 6" concrete with rebar?)
You can use a floor jack for one tire, or use the lift bars that mount to the drip tray / sliding tray to lift the entire front/rear as needed.
The floor under the posts are not specifically reinforced as you would have to do with a two post lift. The forces are very different. However, you should check with your local building department and see what they require.
10-24-2015, 02:03 PM
Guys with 4-post car lifts in their garages. I have questions
