John Speake

I mean just unplug the LH ECU.

But first check slot XV is empty....
https://www.928gt.com/t-8586fuse.aspx

Mrmerlin

since others are also echoing this,
I will repost this advice,

verify that the relays and fuses are all in the correct places,
and that also the correct part number relays are being used

John Speake

You don't need a 'scope in the first instance. Unplug the LH and use a DVM on ohms to measure between pin 1 and car chassis.

I guess it will be a short circuit. It should be about 2500 ohms IIRC.

VehiGAZ

Leave the pod in place. If all these tests and procedures seem overwhelming, start with verifying the correct relay install, then clip that tach wire (they should only require an hour or two of staring before you can do them). And FWIW, I agree with checking/swapping the EZK - I've heard "they never go bad" enough times now to suspect that this one has gone bad.

You may be surprised at what an awesome trouble-shooter you can be with the help of these fine and knowledgable gents!

Vann you have a busy weekend ahead of you! Good luck! I for one am rooting for you!

vanster

It's really overwhelming, but one step at a time and when it's all over and it runs I will have learned
a lot and hopefully I will be able to offer assistance to others. Thanks to everyone and with a deep breath
now to crack on!

Cosmo Kramer

I bet you are glad you had it shipped and didn't try the fly there drive home route now!

WallyP

Just for clarity, the pin-out on the CEL plugs is the alpha identification, with A on the left end and skipping I, followed by the terminal number, arranged by column:

15 25
14 24
13 23
12 22
11 21

As examples: B22 is the second wire up in the right-hand column of Plug B, which is the second plug from the left end. C14 is the 4th wire up in the left-hand column of the next plug in line.

hwyengr

Aw, nuts. I always screw that up. The earlier post that got this wrong has been edited.

vanster

IT RUNS!
Runs poorly but it runs! It seems to run on 6 cyl however I am just thrilled. Here is a car that I bought on BAT as a non runner and got it to run. My '80 that jumps out of it toenails, this car seems to lumber more to speed. The belt tensioner light came on right away, a bit concerning. At least it runs the rest is easy.
Not sure why or how it fired up, but I followed everyone's advice, checked and rechecked everything and then it coughed and sputtered then wham'o...it ran
Thanks to all

van

Chalkboss

Congratulations Van! Any idea what did it finally?

kmascotto

congrats!! Glad to see. Now to understand why!!

bureau13

There's a wire that goes into the front timing belt cover and clips onto a metal tab for the tension warning. There's a pretty decent chance that thing isn't connected, which will cause the warning light to come on after I think 3 minutes. May as well check the tension while you're in there :-)

vanster

Not sure exactly what the reason was. My guess is that other than the MAF and the LH
I rechecked and replaced most all the relays and checked each fuse. I also replaced the Temp II
Now to get it to fire on all cylinders.

Cosmo Kramer

Nice, that is awesome congrats!

VehiGAZ

Woo-hoooo!! Congrats Van!!!

I'm thinking the fiddling with fuses & relays in the CE panel reconnected something and that's why it started. It could still fail again though - this fits in with the PO's experience. You would be well advised to pull it and clean and Si-grease all the connections.

The PO said the tensioner light would come on even though the belt tension was good. Slap in a Pork-tensioner when you do the t-belt.

Now why is it running rough?

Is the 86.5 engine subject to going into limp-home mode? If so, check for a red or green light on in the doohickey with the clear-plastic housing near the LH & EZK modules. These lights indicate if the car is in limp mode and which bank is causing it.