1978 5sp #107 just arrived - aka the restoration of Minerva
#76
Nordschleife Master
Presuming original paint, and that the little things up by the valve stem are spiderwebs (or similar), those actually look pretty good. That's pretty much what they are supposed to look like.
Inside the rim is often a nasty accumulation of brake dust, road crud, and that sort of stuff. I'd use a good degreaser and a bristle brush.
Inside the rim is often a nasty accumulation of brake dust, road crud, and that sort of stuff. I'd use a good degreaser and a bristle brush.
#77
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Is there a known paint code(s) for wheel colors?
I've been toying with the idea of body colored phone dials for the copper / brown 277.
I've been toying with the idea of body colored phone dials for the copper / brown 277.
#78
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...finishing.html
The master says Silbermetallic #936, per Porsche Classic.
The master says Silbermetallic #936, per Porsche Classic.
#81
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Two inches too big, and maybe too wide, but at some point we'll have to fit my set on Minerva, just for grins.
#82
The goal for this car was and remains after inspections to keep it as original as possible. Short term goal is to have the car functional at
Sharktoberfest '15. '14 was depressing w/o a Shark!
So while the fuel tank (with its '77 date!) gets a much needed boil out, the plan is to replace the tie rod ends and ball joints. Thanks to Anderson, I am hopeful to find the correct aluminum ball joints for these early cars.
Fuel distributor and warm up regulator will be sent out and refurbed.
Thanks to all for the well wishes, encouragement, and input! Much more will be needed before this is over if I am to remain somewhat sane.
Sharktoberfest '15. '14 was depressing w/o a Shark!
So while the fuel tank (with its '77 date!) gets a much needed boil out, the plan is to replace the tie rod ends and ball joints. Thanks to Anderson, I am hopeful to find the correct aluminum ball joints for these early cars.
Fuel distributor and warm up regulator will be sent out and refurbed.
Thanks to all for the well wishes, encouragement, and input! Much more will be needed before this is over if I am to remain somewhat sane.
#83
Rennlist Member
I thought the aluminum ball joints were a safety issue? Didn't the factory recommend correcting them? Surely no one will ding you for originality because you used safer, factory-recommended replacements?
#84
If my information is wrong, I certainly don't want to take chances with safety.
#85
Rennlist Member
I'm no expert, but I have heard stories of them coming apart with no warning. I'm sure they were old, however...
#87
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Good point, and we explored the pros and cons. My understanding is that they are only a safety issue when used worn where metal/metal leveraging forces can cause an understandable failure. Within specs, they are fine.
If my information is wrong, I certainly don't want to take chances with safety.
If my information is wrong, I certainly don't want to take chances with safety.
Very cool project.
I'm doing the mechanicals on #242, right now. Challenging to keep them as original as possible, while making them reliable and safe at the same time.
If you aren't going to ever drive it very far or very hard, I think a good set of aluminum ball joints would be fine. I'm not sure I'd run it at 100mph with them, but from the garage to Sharktoberfest it should be fine. That being said, I've never left a set of aluminum ball joints in any car which I touched the suspension on...there's not enough liability insurance available for any shop to do that!
You've got the right idea. Remove the entire drivetrain and start cleaning. Getting that thick grey paint off of the transmission will be the hardest part of the whole job! While the engine is out, do the head gaskets/weld up the corrosion on the heads/change the studs. This stuff will be in terrible condition and it is a great move to "halt" the aluminum oxidation now, before it gets worse.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
Last edited by GregBBRD; 09-18-2015 at 06:07 PM.
#88
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I was wondering about that, it has the correct early (thick) tranny mounts on it but who the hell painted the trans? Weird.
#89
Rennlist Member
When I got my first 928 it had broken a front ball joint. I ended up changing the whole unibody for several reasons including the fact that they cut the top off the car with the jaws of life to get the PO out. Please, please change them to steel. Please. Its like refusing the put on new fuel lines because you want to keep the car original.
#90
The goal for this car was and remains after inspections to keep it as original as possible. Short term goal is to have the car functional at
Sharktoberfest '15. '14 was depressing w/o a Shark!
So while the fuel tank (with its '77 date!) gets a much needed boil out, the plan is to replace the tie rod ends and ball joints. Thanks to Anderson, I am hopeful to find the correct aluminum ball joints for these early cars.
Fuel distributor and warm up regulator will be sent out and refurbed.
Thanks to all for the well wishes, encouragement, and input! Much more will be needed before this is over if I am to remain somewhat sane.
Sharktoberfest '15. '14 was depressing w/o a Shark!
So while the fuel tank (with its '77 date!) gets a much needed boil out, the plan is to replace the tie rod ends and ball joints. Thanks to Anderson, I am hopeful to find the correct aluminum ball joints for these early cars.
Fuel distributor and warm up regulator will be sent out and refurbed.
Thanks to all for the well wishes, encouragement, and input! Much more will be needed before this is over if I am to remain somewhat sane.
My aluminium ball joints on my 78 are tight, 98K, and I kept the aluminium ball joint out of my 78 parts car...just so I would have an extra set. If I were to make it a driver, might swap them out for steel.
Good luck,
Brian.