mark kibort

If you had the pedal pressed then all bets are off. you cant move them that way and get any meaningful adjustment from that.
what do you mean, when you installed the assembly? installlation has nothing to do with how all the clutch elements linge up. once that pedal is releases and you have max clamping force, you then want to release the clutch and you want to know how far the INT plate can retract. this is based on the H position. 1mm will alow for retraction of the INT plate and everthing will be free from being spun by the flywheel. you then can put the car in gear easily.
not much more than 1mm, and the INT plate can retract too far, as even Skarkskin says in his link below, and it will contact the pressure plate and keep the driveline spinning.



the chance that this fixes the issue , is base on the drive line stilll spinning when you push in the clutch. if it is still spinning, its either the INT plate adjustment, or the master or slave not pulling the pressure plate back far enough. take a picture of your adjustment... no pedal pressure. try and get it very small, but not greater than 1 to 1.25mm

Even hacker himself agreed back in 2008 that he did not have much luck with pushing the H adjusters back all the way . a point that proves Glens way is not 100% reliable. my way, however, and its the WSM way, is 100% effective.
Try it and get back to me!



https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post5218072

also there was something that sharkskin said, about wear being the differences in dimension. i stil contend that there is no wear, and why would there be. its just a stop for a low pressure force of the flat springs that retract the INT plate. mine have been pinned for 8 years now and there has been no measurable wear.. and why would there be. the point is, even if there was some wear, it wouldnt be much. maybe .1mm at the most i would imagine.

Fronkenstein

I never gave much relevance to the wear of those H tabs.

hacker-pschorr

Sorry....my mind was going one way and my fingers the other.

What I meant to say to Fronk is your method of the 1mm gap in the adjuster is a good place to start. Not even sure why I said 1-2mm....
But the absolute best and foolproof way is with the clutch fully disengaged and centering the intermediate disc.

Frankly I never pay attention to the gap in the H adjuster but I can see how it could and probably does work doing it that way. But I'm not doing it unless for some reason I find myself in a situation where I cannot do it the way I described above.


Yup.

That's exactly where it needs to be. I don't see any arguing that, what everyone disagrees on is how to get it there.

Having the clutch fully disengaged when you adjust the intermediate disc is the only sure fire way to center the intermediate disc.

Any other "method" came about because doing it this way isn't always so simple because Porsche wasn't forward thinking enough to put a stupid removable cover on the lower bellhousing.

Fronkenstein

Slam!!! Goes the gavel and the arguments for this case has been presented by all sides. Stay tuned for the final judgement on Monday:-D

beran earms

mark kibort

no problem! yes, not only is a good starting point, its a GREAT starting point, because it makes sure you only have minimal rear ward travel, and its very easy to do.

I guess the INT plate in the middle of the H adjusters can work too, but that seems MUCH more difficult.

Fronkenstein

Centering the plate is very easy of you have a window in your bell cover like Hacker and I do

mark kibort

I have a window as well. its another step, that is just more needed work... with the window its easier becasue all you do is look at the H adjuster and make a 1mm gap.. DONE.. Now, something to think about, IF , you center the intplate, and the gap ends up being 1.3mm, you will run the risk of the INT plate moving rearward and making slight contact with the pressure plate, and cause a dragging issue.
try the 1mm trick and let me know how it goes. I guarantee you will be most happy with that adjustment.technique

hacker-pschorr

I'm eager to find out how different this might be with the early clutches since I'm positive the 78 I picked up has the original clutch with that slightly different intermediate disc.

Also with the different discs installed over the year, the one with the shorter snout, this might change also but I've never worked on a clutch with that disc.

Fronkenstein

I have 3 intermediate plates and 3 pressure plates, 2 different throwout bearings, 2 different slaves, two flywheels, and two arms.

How's that for a jumble.

Fronkenstein

Fronkenstein

Glen,

Take a look at: oil pump and cooler

That should give you a good start

Fronkenstein

GlenL

Thanks. I've checked out parts a few times and the tricky part are the fittings and adapters. Tips?

Fronkenstein

Here is one place to find fittings

Vilhuer

Big issue in oil split is how to lubricate two pinion gear bearings. Automatic diff has fully working solution to this with two seals and drain hole in the middle. Its just difficult to implement into single piece manual box pinion shaft.

Fronkenstein

Yeah I thought about that in the middle of the thread. I was hoping not to have to disassemble the box but there is no choice. You have to seal the bearing from one side of the bath and give it a drain.

Fronkenstein