hlee96

Quick questions, because I can't seem to find the answers after multiple searches.

1. Before I pull the engine from the '78 manual, do I need to apply the flywheel lock in place of the clutch slave cylinder ?
2. Do I need to unlock the fly wheel pulley in the front of the engine before pulling the engine out?
3. Following wsm, I had unscrewed the clutch pressure line mount from the oil pan, but I can't seem to slide out the clutch slave cylinder around the starter. Any suggestions? Seems like a big operation to take out the clutch, housing, and starter with the clutch slave cylinder all in one shot.

Thanks. Hoi

AirtekHVAC

I missed it Hoi....why you pulling the motor? I plan on pulling the motor on #30 and do a gasket refresh one of these days, but want to actually try to drive her a little first....

Jadz928

Hi Hoi,
- No, but you can.
-- Yes, I would. Unless you have a 300# guy perch on your engine stand.
--- Take out the starter. You won't need it until you're finished.

Good luck!

Daniel5691

Hi !

I am currently pulling the motor from my 1981 928s 5 spd. I am moving at a snail's pace, but it looks like I might be a few days ahead of you here and maybe I can offer some information to help you. I'll try my best, and hopefully others will be kind enough to correct my glaring mistakes LOL.

My understanding is that the flywheel lock is inserted to prevent the rotation of the crank/flywheel while you are using a monster-sized pry bar to loosen (or I guess tighten) the crank pulley bolt. It is also, of course, used to "freeze" the crank and pistons at the appropriate index point (0 TDC for me) if you are removing and installing the timing belt or monkeying around with the cams and pulleys.

Even though the WSM does not specify that you need to install and use the flywheel lock for removal of the engine, I went ahead anyway and used it to break loose my crank pulley bolt,
because out of my ignorance and inexperience,
I just didn't know whether or not I would be able to find a way to lock the flywheel once the engine was out and on the stand.
I am kind of a weakling so I really had to get on the cheater bar to loosen it ha ha.

However, as I proceeded on through the removal process, I had to remove the lower clutch pack cover where the flywheel lock runs through anyway, so it then becomes sort of a moot point. Also, in the process of loosening and removing all the clutch pack bolts, I needed to be able to rotate the crank to gain access to the clutch bolts, and also to insert the shims, so it wasn't locked up by my flywheel lock at that point anyway.

I had a honking rotten time trying to counter-hold the crank steady while I got enough OOMPH on the clutch pack bolts to loosen them! I wish you could have seen it, it was hilarious, I had a big fat breaker bar on the front of the engine to steady the crank pulley bolt and counter-hold it with my left hand while I had another breaker bar all the way back up in the clutch assembly with my right hand trying to break the goofy bolts loose! It was like a medieval torture device and man I was SORE the next day ! (wimpy)
There has to be a better way to do that !!!!

I forgot your other questions so I'll have to post this much and then check out your original post again. I may have some pictures to throw up here if there's anything in particular that might help.

Dan

Daniel5691

Regarding the starter and slave cylinder issue, I just removed the starter by itself. Be sure to photo or carefully label the wires to make install less insane !!! Also open up the little tabs that hold the wires in place so that they are free to swing away. With the starter out, you have tons of room to swing the clutch cylinder around and suspend it carefully to the side.

I think I am "over-labeling" and "over-documenting" everything.... but I just am concerned that as the days roll past and my memory gets kinda hazy that I'll forget a detail here and there and thus be rewarded with the excitement of doing it all over again....

Dan

tlister67

The the lower clutch housing I took the starter and plate together after unbolting the slave. You can put a jack under to hold the weight taking out and back in. Then you can start the clutch removal steps. You can also support the weight of the clutch using a jack since it is unwieldy. I use a block of wood under to protect teeth. The four bolts to the housing are not that bad to get at. You should support the torque tube.

I removed the fan and AC but left the alternator on. I would probably remove next time as the engine will want to tip to the front left when using the 2 hoist points.

Remember there is a clamp on left side of crossmember to the engine wiring harness that is hard to get to. I would try to remove before lifting engine as I was nervous working near a dangling engine.

Take lots of pics, particularly the injection, vacuum lines and wiring.

Good luck!

hlee96

Ron - I was trying to clean the gunk inside my fuel pumps-lines, since I am sure the last PO did not do much fuel system maintenance ("I just put some fuel system cleaner in the gas tank after I bought it in 2004"), with Chemtool B-12 and jumping the fuel pump relays, due to my '78's difficulty with starting without any gas or starter fluid in the intake. I messed up and committed a major rookie mistake by playing with the sensor plate and putting gas into the engine! Now, I can't start it for a while without risking hydrolocking it. I took out the injectors and gas came out.

Dan - thank you so much for the detailed response. I will be contacting the usual suspects again for the lock.

tlister67 - thank you for your advice. I will remove the alternator and the starter separately before removing the clutch housing. The clamp securing the engine harness is really giving me a hard time removing the bolt. It is super tight and the harness is pressed so tight against the bolt that I can't seem to get my wrench around the metal in order to loosen it. Any recommendation? Plenty of rusty-lube sprays been used.... I am wondering if I placing a "locally manufactured wood" to support the torque tube on the rear crossbrace enough? My car is on a 4-post lift and it is difficult to place a high enough support from under the TT. Maybe a pile of 2x4s?

Jim - Thank you also for your advice and I will be contacting you soon regarding fuel distributor, WUR, new fuel lines (GB's!), etc......How's the GT coming? So jealous....Still kicking myself.....

So in summary and I just want to make sure I get this correct:
1. Apply flywheel lock in place of clutch slave cylinder
2. Loosen front flywheel pulley with long breaker bar (pipe or similar) with lock in place to prevent piston-cam movements during counterclockwise rotation
3. Take out starter separately, as opposed to together as recommended by WSM, from the clutch housing

Thank you very much!

tlister67

That clamp is a pain. I ended up using a bunch of extensions. I think you will want the PS hoses removed for more space. I don't know how I would approach removing the bolt if stuck. Perhaps sacrifice the clamp if you can cut it without damaging the wiring harness. Then with the engine out deal with the bolt.

Mrmerlin

Hoi if you have an air compressor and an impact gun,
you can easily remove the crank bolt without any need to install the flywheel lock.
That said ,
drop/ remove the sway bay
drop/remove the starter,
remove the slave,
then remove the bell housing,
then drop out the clutch.
disconnect the EX manifolds from the header pipes.

hlee96

Thank you so much Stan. I do have an air compressor, but it is the cheapo 100 PSI I got from Black Friday sell in HD 6 yrs ago. Will this be enough? What is the torque locking that crank pulley down? I was looking at a Makita Cordless Impact Wrench but they have different torque specifications. Is the crank bolt >250 lb-ft? Is 100 PSI enough? If I get an impact gun, will I be able to loosen the crank bolt with the engine out?

Also, do I need to take out the whole clutch assembly in order to pull the engine? Why does WSM not mention that?

Thanks-Hoi

AirtekHVAC

Hoi...I had a similar problem, flooded my engine out 4 times. I had fuel rolling out my tailpipe and filled my cylinders. All I did was drain oil, and refill...cranked a few times with plugs out..worked for me. All this while trying to rebuild the fuel distributor. I finally succeeded. Pulling the motor seems drastic, but if you plan on refreshing it, gotta come out sometime. Good luck and keep posting.

hlee96

Thanks Ron, it's great to hear that someone has just done what I will be doing for the next few weeks with my car. I had read up ~30 pages of your thread and it is great info. Keeps me from losing faith. I figure that since the PO admitted to doing little on the car since 2004, I would like to pull the engine and doing some (alot) of catch up maintenance. However, I will most likely send out my WUR and fuel distributor for rebuild rather than trying to clean it myself.

AirtekHVAC

I although I am a chronic tinkerer, and was proud to have done the FD by myself, my recommendation is to send it off and save the grief. Keep posting, very interested in how you get it out, mine might not be too far behind

LT Texan

On a '78, remove the clutch cover with the starter attached.

In 25 years I have never unbolted the starter. (I hope I haven't jinxed myself.)

But first, lock down the flywheel and break loose the crankshaft bolt.

Then remove the clutch cover/starter. The clutch slave should be removed from the clutch cover first, but you don't need to remove the brake fluid line. (Or at least on mine, the line goes under the starter.)

Good luck!

hlee96

Took off the clutch cover with starter, then removed the starter from the bell housing. However, went one step too far before getting the flywheel lock and loosening the crank pulley PRIOR to removing the clutch cover. Well, that's why I'm learning here....with experience. Now, I'm waiting to get my flywheel lock from roger then attaching only the cover back with it.

BTW, what's the best tool to shim the pressure plate on the clutch? Also, are there 6 or 8 bolts to the clutch cover?

Many thanks for sharing wisdom-Hoi