Clutch removal, please help me understand where shims should go ??
#1
Clutch removal, please help me understand where shims should go ??
Hello, first time through removing the clutch assembly on my 1981 928s Euro 5spd.
Going slow and careful, some initial questions, and any help appreciated ! !
I read about inserting shims prior to removal, and I am trying to understand where these shims should go....
I found this archived photo, and what I believe may be a copper wire used as a shim? Am I looking at the right location?
Also, I have removed the pinch bolt nearest the clutch assembly, but there is what seems to be another pinch bolt which I can feel through an inspection hole aft of the first pinch bolt.
Are there 2 pinch bolts to loosen?
Thank you so much.
Dan
Going slow and careful, some initial questions, and any help appreciated ! !
I read about inserting shims prior to removal, and I am trying to understand where these shims should go....
I found this archived photo, and what I believe may be a copper wire used as a shim? Am I looking at the right location?
Also, I have removed the pinch bolt nearest the clutch assembly, but there is what seems to be another pinch bolt which I can feel through an inspection hole aft of the first pinch bolt.
Are there 2 pinch bolts to loosen?
Thank you so much.
Dan
#2
Advanced
That is the right place.
I did not install shims on disassembly but did during assembly. You can use clamps to move the flex plate to install the shims. I used clothes hanger wire.
The coupler has two pinch bolts front and back. There is a hole in the torque tube to fit a key. They must be removed to slide the coupler back.
Good info here
http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...DriveTrain.htm
I did not install shims on disassembly but did during assembly. You can use clamps to move the flex plate to install the shims. I used clothes hanger wire.
The coupler has two pinch bolts front and back. There is a hole in the torque tube to fit a key. They must be removed to slide the coupler back.
Good info here
http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...DriveTrain.htm
#3
Rennlist Member
.... I read about inserting shims prior to removal, and I am trying to understand where these shims should go....
I found this archived photo, and what I believe may be a copper wire used as a shim? Am I looking at the right location?
.... Also, I have removed the pinch bolt nearest the clutch assembly, but there is what seems to be another pinch bolt which I can feel through an inspection hole aft of the first pinch bolt.
Are there 2 pinch bolts to loosen? ....
I found this archived photo, and what I believe may be a copper wire used as a shim? Am I looking at the right location?
.... Also, I have removed the pinch bolt nearest the clutch assembly, but there is what seems to be another pinch bolt which I can feel through an inspection hole aft of the first pinch bolt.
Are there 2 pinch bolts to loosen? ....
#4
Thank you, gentlemen!
Have a wonderful weekend!
Dan
Have a wonderful weekend!
Dan
#5
Team Owner
NOTE the thicker the wire the more clearance you have to remove the release arm from the ball.
NOTE If the clutch wont drop down then I would suggest that you loosen the 4 bell housing bolts so they are in about 3 turns then remove the two rear trans mount to cross member bolts and slide the TT back.
NOTE before setting the clutch assembly back into the car make sure that you remove the rear pinch bolt and center the drive shaft,
then install the bolt with a dab of blue loctite and torque to 66 ft/lbs.
Once this is done tighten the 2 lower bell housing bolts, this draws the assembly together.
then take the stub shaft and the guide tube and drive shaft collar fit these parts into the car.
What you want to do is mock up this assembly and then mark the stub shaft at the back of the guide tube so to set the depth of the stub in the pilot bearing push the stub into the pilot bearing then move it rearwards about 3 MM,
this will put the bearing surfaces together,
mark the shaft at the back of the guide tube.
then slide the collar into position and check that the collar lines up and that both of the pinch bolts can be installed.
This procedure makes it easy to set the depth of the stub once you have everything loosely fitted.
NOTE If the clutch wont drop down then I would suggest that you loosen the 4 bell housing bolts so they are in about 3 turns then remove the two rear trans mount to cross member bolts and slide the TT back.
NOTE before setting the clutch assembly back into the car make sure that you remove the rear pinch bolt and center the drive shaft,
then install the bolt with a dab of blue loctite and torque to 66 ft/lbs.
Once this is done tighten the 2 lower bell housing bolts, this draws the assembly together.
then take the stub shaft and the guide tube and drive shaft collar fit these parts into the car.
What you want to do is mock up this assembly and then mark the stub shaft at the back of the guide tube so to set the depth of the stub in the pilot bearing push the stub into the pilot bearing then move it rearwards about 3 MM,
this will put the bearing surfaces together,
mark the shaft at the back of the guide tube.
then slide the collar into position and check that the collar lines up and that both of the pinch bolts can be installed.
This procedure makes it easy to set the depth of the stub once you have everything loosely fitted.
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 07-04-2015 at 12:34 PM.
#6
Thank you, Stan !
Wishing you a wonderful 4th of July.
Dan
Wishing you a wonderful 4th of July.
Dan
#7
Race Car
If you're having trouble installing the shims you can use a come along on the clutch arm or fork attached to the rear crossmember and tighten This will pull the pressure plate way back and let you to insert a 4 mm shim makes a lot easier at least for me. if you don't do this you'll need to press and have a hard time trying to remove the bearing.
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#8
Tampa
You just read my mind lol.
Thanks,
I have a small come-along that should work.
Whew !!!!
Dan
You just read my mind lol.
Thanks,
I have a small come-along that should work.
Whew !!!!
Dan
#9
Nordschleife Master
If you use shims with big loops like in the pic Dave posted (post #3), make them out of fairly soft wire. I Made mine with the loops just a bit too long, and had to bend them towards the motor because they were hanging up on the inside of the bell housing.