77tony

You really should become a sponsor here on RL. Nice to see someone with the passion you have that knows how to prep & paint these wonderful 928's. I am sure you would pick up plenty of businsess.02 T

Kiln_Red

I certainly wish I had more time for these cars. I've actually slowed my business down a speed or two just for the ability to get back to enjoying my own toys and time with family. I'd love to be painting more 928s. I wish I had the power to make everyone's car on this forum look as they desired, at no charge if I could afford to. Not many 928 owners near me however.

Couple of technical notes that came to mind for those who are in the process of refinishing or have it on their to-do list..

Don't follow advice to save a buck on clear if you are suggested to do so. Most refinishers aren't even aware of the difference in UV protection in one product vs. another on their very own shelf. Clear is where painters want to skimp. Truth of the matter is that the thinner clears are easier to spray. Much easier to buff. Customers get steered to lesser products under the pretense that "we'll buff it anyway" to make it look as you want it to. You can make a lot of clears look like the top shelf stuff on this car. BUT there's more to it than that..

If you plan on driving a red car, you'd best get a clear loaded up with UV protection. This has little to do with film build and a lot to do with additives included by the manufacturer. Ask your painter to see the product if this is a concern for you. You're looking for a clear coat that looks amber or golden in color; not clear like water. The clearer the product, the lesser.

If your car is a garage queen, this is not a concern. Single stage it if you want and you have a color that may be applied in a single process.

Also, if you're keeping the rub strips, these have to have flex additive in the undercoat(s) as well as the clear. These suckers are flimsy. Build the paint up too much and with no flex additives and the paint will start cracking in no time.

Use flex additive for the bumpers at your discretion. It is not necessarily a must.

77tony

Nobody is asking you to do this for free. They will come to you judging by the work you do. Plus you are centrally located in the US. T

Mrmerlin

Austin I am glad your finally unmasking that car in your avatar.
You certainly know the deal with paint, and as you say Glaso.. is the best!
I am glad your sharing your skills with us, your attention to detail is excellent.

FWIW I did a full respray of my 79 IceBlau with Glaso,
and it took 3 full sandings and buffings before the excellent paint shone through.
It was worth it though.
It was also an exceptional amount of work,
so I know from where you speak and what is needed.

Please keep the pictures coming, there is lots to learn from being in your garage.
Keep Em Flying!

Kiln_Red

The bird is the word, Stan! Thanks you for your compliments. If you ever want an 11H re-spray, come see me. I mixed your color once for our local distributor. They had a walk-in customer wanting it, but they didn't have enough of one of the toners in the mid-coat to complete the mix. I had more than the distributor, so we mixed it. I never had heard of the color before and have never seen it on a car in person.

Do you have any idea how many 911s may have had this color, or other P cars? Weren't there just 2 928s?

Kiln_Red

Sure, Tony. The reality is that most prospective customers of early cars can't justify the cost for this kind of repaint as their cars still aren't *yet* worth enough. The very early cars are becoming an exception.

Then there are the truly good owners who don't have the budget for this, yet their cars absolutely deserve the attention.

77tony

If someone is on a tight budget, they could take their 928 apart and reassemble later to save on labor costs. Could also use less expensive primer/paint combo than the Glasurit if not looking for a show car. Wish I knew of you before I had both the 79 & 94 painted. Not that much diff between the new & older cars. T

Kiln_Red

Damn! You're good, Tony. haha

Your cars look beautiful, Tony. Now don't you remember a brief phone conversation with me before "Just Beachy" was painted? You knew of me.

I would've loved to have sprayed "Just Peachy" just for the sake of the challenge a color like that presents. Even more so on these aluminum substrates. I'm a perfectionist with these high metallics. If there is any trace evidence that a manual spray gun graced the vehicle, I don't clear it. I'll study the metallics for up to an hour before clear application. One streak or splotch kills the whole job. I want them to look as good under fluorescent light as sun light. I judge the basecoat in simulated conditions of each.

By the way.. If you want to judge a high metallic paint job critically, then look at it under fluorescent lighting. Not sun light. You'll see any errors in the gun setup or application technique this way.

77tony

I do remember that conversation and in hindsight I should have shipped Just Peachy to you. Won't be making that mistake again after seeing your work. T

Kiln_Red

I don't necessarily consider Glasurit show car exclusive paint. With a show car, put your money and time into the undercoats. Get her laser straight and then top coat with anything you want. Buff the hell out of it and now you have a show car. Indoor fun only, though.

Glasurit is the car enthusiast brand. It can handle the elements. It's what you put on a car you're going to drive. Enjoy the looks when you see when people snap their necks around to catch a final glimpse. They see resto'd muscle cars, but what's with that paint? There's something different, but they can't place it as they may not have ever seen a car look that way before. It's provocative, yet original looking.

I put Glasurit on my Buick Park Avenue just because I had so much of the clear on my shelf at the time. Even that sucker got the looks.

Tazzieman

Outstanding results , well done and thanks for all the insights.
It really is an eye catching shade of red.

Mrmerlin

From what I have found there were 2 928s painted this color,
I have one of them,
as well as one 911 and one 924S

Nicole was at the Frankfurt auto show in 1987 when these cars were on display my car was made in march of 1988 SN 1599

VanD

Kiln_Red - can you give us an idea of what the 'basic' cost of a similar refinish as on your car would cost? (not including any body or rust repair) I have a couple 'special' cars that I am interested in repainting and willing to spend what it would take to get a job done right by someone who understands the 928 and he's been through the process. Most of the folks around me seem to either not even think about painting a 928, i.e 'we don't do those' or they seem to think it will go the same as every other car they have done - 'no problem, dude' but give me strange looks when I ask about how they will treat the aluminum/bumpers/rub strips and the steel and come up with a uniform result. Also, what would your 'turnaround' and lead times be, roughly. KY is a hike from NY but may be do-able for me in the near future. Perhaps send two cars down at once?

Kiln_Red

Some things to consider before I can offer a good estimate..

1. There is a major fluctuation in cost for basecoat. I need your paint codes. I could name a price for materials that would cover any color, but I rather pass this savings to you if your colors are less expensive - you're the one buying the chemicals.

2. If I am disassembling & re-assembling the car, add $2,500. That's a high price, I understand. I don't want to do this work to be honest, so this is why I price it this way. Leave the drip rail trim attached, though. Leave the riveted portion of the door glass trim, too. These parts are very difficult to remove without easily destroying for someone who hasn't BTDT. I'll remove and re-install those.

3. If we're painting all of the jambs, undersides of hood & hatch, and inside of doors add $1000 for labor, not counting the added R&R work. If the engine bay is being refinished, add $2000. This includes the necessary R&R.

For a comparable re-spray for what I have done on this '84, I would charge $5000, not including paint & materials or R&R. There was minimal body work and no jambs were refinished. This may sound like a cheaper price than what may be expected. The reason is because 928s are not a difficult car to paint. It's not a large car and it was well made. These aren't 60s muscle cars and SHOULD NOT be treated as such. The effort is less invasive because of the substrates that were used and the undercoats that were applied. DO NOT compromise the original undercoats where it isn't required. They can't be replaced. Once they're gone, they're gone forever. I've never seen a 928 that needed to be stripped to raw substrate that hadn't been previously repainted, though I am aware that it has happened to too many of our cars.

VanD

That sounds reasonable, especially given the expertise I feel that is necessary to get it done right. The first time. My cars that need paint are Silver Metallic and Light green Metallic. How much disassembly are you talking about (I can remove interior, lights, mirrors), but taking out rear quarter windows, bumper covers may be out of my wheelhouse....