Oil cooling through radiator Porsche 928s 1982
#17
Advanced
My 78 had cooling lines but the 82 donor engine did not. I decided they would offer more opportunities to leak and went without and installed the 82 rad as well. Benefits of having a running parts car.
#18
Rennlist Member
Double checked the oil filter area, I don't see bolts there.
And found the block number: M28/12. So that clears that out ... phew ;-)
I'm going to leave it as it is now.
Started it up a while ago: he ran smooth, but the temperature went up quite quick. But I noticed that one cooler pipe was warm and the other was cold, so I next time when he's cold again I'm going to check if I have circulation in my water.
So maybe I can take it apart again for a water pump :-)
Bought it cheap and wanted a project ... I have one. Luckely I enjoy working on it
And found the block number: M28/12. So that clears that out ... phew ;-)
I'm going to leave it as it is now.
Started it up a while ago: he ran smooth, but the temperature went up quite quick. But I noticed that one cooler pipe was warm and the other was cold, so I next time when he's cold again I'm going to check if I have circulation in my water.
So maybe I can take it apart again for a water pump :-)
Bought it cheap and wanted a project ... I have one. Luckely I enjoy working on it
if it starts to over heat, check the hoses again.. bottom hose should be cold. in this case, the Tstat is stuck or the pump is bad. usually the pump
#19
7th Gear
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I started it today again, started directly. Let him run for less then a minute and checked the circulation.
No circulation. Also yesterday I couldn't fill him up till the 15 litres.
The hoses are both cold and the temperature gauge was directly at the top. Also the exhaust was extremely hot.
Taking that in account and the comment of Mark ... most probably the pump doesn't operate.
So back to research and see how I can replace that.
Is there a way to test the pump during assembly? Because I can't start the engine when it is apart ...
No circulation. Also yesterday I couldn't fill him up till the 15 litres.
The hoses are both cold and the temperature gauge was directly at the top. Also the exhaust was extremely hot.
Taking that in account and the comment of Mark ... most probably the pump doesn't operate.
So back to research and see how I can replace that.
Is there a way to test the pump during assembly? Because I can't start the engine when it is apart ...
#20
7th Gear
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Just saw the great write up of Dwayne (1987 Timing Belt and Water Pump Procedure).
It is not the same version, but it'll certainly be of great help.
Thanks guys !
It is not the same version, but it'll certainly be of great help.
Thanks guys !
#22
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Takes a lot longer than 1 minute to get the engine warmed up. Your engine was still cold. How much coolant were you able to put in the car? Your temperature gauge could be faulty too. Get an infrared temperature gun and measure the engine temperature.
#23
Rennlist Member
I started it today again, started directly. Let him run for less then a minute and checked the circulation.
No circulation. Also yesterday I couldn't fill him up till the 15 litres.
The hoses are both cold and the temperature gauge was directly at the top. Also the exhaust was extremely hot.
Taking that in account and the comment of Mark ... most probably the pump doesn't operate.
So back to research and see how I can replace that.
Is there a way to test the pump during assembly? Because I can't start the engine when it is apart ...
No circulation. Also yesterday I couldn't fill him up till the 15 litres.
The hoses are both cold and the temperature gauge was directly at the top. Also the exhaust was extremely hot.
Taking that in account and the comment of Mark ... most probably the pump doesn't operate.
So back to research and see how I can replace that.
Is there a way to test the pump during assembly? Because I can't start the engine when it is apart ...
if the impleller is firm in the pump , it is fine. (new one) thats all you can test.
check the flow. the only way to test flow is to wedge t-stat open. then do the test i was revering too. ... its the only way to confirm flow. you then pour water from the hose into the intake of the water pump and divert the exhaust of the water pump on the ground. if it pumps , the pump is working . the hose can keep up with idling water flow. if nothing is moving, the pump is toast.
#24
Rennlist Member
My oil cooler lines need to be replaced. Well, just the top one, as the outside hard plastic material is cracked, and the hose is weeping oil. However, the two hoses come as a single part (928 107 037 05). It is an expensive part (cheapest I saw for OEM was $300).
After reading this thread, the first question is - is it necessary to even have these hoses? It seems to me that they may not be needed?
Second, whether needed or not, my inclination is to replace them anyway, since they are part of the original design. (altho I could just pull them plug the radiator and block, and save the hoses like I did with the air pump and its hardware). In any event, if I replace, what are the "gotchas"? Do I risk breaking my original side tank on my radiator? What else?
Thanks all.
After reading this thread, the first question is - is it necessary to even have these hoses? It seems to me that they may not be needed?
Second, whether needed or not, my inclination is to replace them anyway, since they are part of the original design. (altho I could just pull them plug the radiator and block, and save the hoses like I did with the air pump and its hardware). In any event, if I replace, what are the "gotchas"? Do I risk breaking my original side tank on my radiator? What else?
Thanks all.
#25
Nordschleife Master
Take the hoses to a hydraulic hose shop and ask to have them re-lined. I've done several pairs and it's like $50. You may have to try multiple places as the fittings are (of course) some weird metric size. Check the lengths carefully as too long is as bad as too short. I've used Pirtek which is a national chain.
#26
you can always have them rebuilt. (see above). i added the radiator cooler to my car as it did not come with it from the factory. helps keep temps down on stop and go.
#27
Rennlist Member
what about pulling them off the block side? Do I need to worry about breaking threads?
#28
just counter hold the adapter in the block, it is a must. i wanna say greg has caps you can screw on to the adapter to block off the adapters, if thats what you are wanting do.
#29
Rennlist
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And I make replacement hose sets from Teflon lined stainless hose that are better and cheaper than the stock hoses...