Replacing 928 Fuel Lines - a guide
 

Most of you know that the engine rubber fuel lines are often NLA (no longer available) from Porsche. And that your engine fuel lines are old, cracked, and brittle due to their age and the harsh environment they live in.

Fortunately, they are not hard to service.

We have been selling the correct metric high pressure fuel lines for a number of years that allows you to replace yours... one meter of it is only $15 and that's enough to do all the above-your-engine fuel lines and still have some left over. Here is a link:

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/hipressfuelline.php

To make it even easier for the do-it-yourself-er, I have sourced the correct Oetiker clamps and the crimping tool that you need. The tool and 25 clamps are less than $28. Here is a link:

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ine_clamps.php

Together - they cost way less than a replacement hose from Porsche (if you can find it) and certainly less than you'll spend after an engine fire.

The clamps meet SAE spec J1508 and fuel lines serviced in this way meet aircraft A&P maintenance certifications. This is a good repair.

Now - HOW TO DO IT:

This is typical of the steel-and-rubber fuel line that you will find on your Porsche.
The steel elements are fine, but the rubber section needs to be replaced.
FLR1

By rebuilding the fuel line from your car, not only will you save money compared to buying new, but you are also assured that it will have the correct connections to match your car.
FLR2

You will want to use a hacksaw or a metal cutting wheel to remove the ferrules on the ends of your old rubber hose.
FLR3

I chose the hacksaw. Clamp the fitting in a vice, and take a skim cut through the ferrule as shown.
FLR4

Use a razor to slice the remains of the hose down to the fitting. Take care not to score the barbed fitting with the razor.
FLR5

The old hose will now come off, exposing the barbed section underneath.
FLR6

Push the new fuel line onto the barbed section.
FLR7

Slide the Oetiker clamp in to place. You may have to work it up in to place with a screwdriver as shown.
FLR8

In position, ready to clamp.
FLR9

Place the crimping tool over the ear of the clamp and squeeze. It is not necessary or intended that you will crush the ear all the way until it touches itself.
FLR10

A properly installed Oetiker clamp. Note the gap between the two sides of the ear. This clamp will expand and contract with temperature changes in the hose, like we want it to.
FLR11

All done, ready to put back on the car.
FLR12, FLR13

AS ALWAYS, CHECK FOR LEAKS AFTER SERVICING ANY PART OF THE FUEL SYSTEM

Looks like what we have "all" been doing for the last 10 years - cue Greg in 1,2,3

Seriously does not look like the same hose Porsche uses. Does your hose have the correct polyamide veneer for use with barbed fittings?

what we say on our website:

It made by Continental.