Megasquirt Fuel + EDIS Spark
 

I posted some time ago about my Megasquirt replacement for the mechanical fuel injection.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=40696

I recently went ahead and converted the spark controls as well.

First step was to get a trigger wheel instead of using the signal from the distributor for RPM and timing.

I got a friend to weld a large washer with three bolts sticking out of it to the crank pulley. Bought a 36-1 tooth wheel blank on line for a few bucks. I made a very simple mounting bracket by bending aluminum flat stock to mount the pickup sensor. I slightly oversized the holes through the pickup wheel so it could be floated a little to center it. Used a feeler gauge to get the wheel centered and the gap right.

I bought a used EDIS controller and coil packs for $50 through ebay. I made an aluminum tray that I bolted to the fan bridge to hold the spark coils. The edis wiring was simple.

I made a bracket to hold a 2010 Ford Ranger throttle position sensor that is operated by a simple four bar linkage that connects to the throttle mechanisms. No machine work required, just a drill and a cutoff wheel to make everything.

I replaced the radiator fan with an electrical one. It is controlled by the megasquirt.

I plugged the hole for the old distributor with a rubber stopper from the hardware store and captured it with a plate that is held down by a bolt in the same spot that previously held the distributor in.

I am very pleased with the results so far. The megasquirt gives some great tools and information for tuning and troubleshooting. It's not nearly as nice looking an install as the CNP but the EDIS gets the job done, lets you optimize spark advance, is simple and reliable.

It is great to have the car back on the road!

Regardless of what it looks like sounds great a fantastic job for cheep . congrats.:D

If you could post more pics it would be very nice. thanks,Ray

A few more pictures.

Are you feeding the fuel from the front or back of the fuel rail?
I see the FPR at the front.

if it is a bypass regulator, like i use, then after the rails is fine.

I routed the fuel from the feed line to the front of the passenger's side rail, across the back of the motor, forward on the driver's side to the regulator to the return line.

Here's the installation guide for the FPR.
http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/...9/12/13101.pdf

i would recommend splitting the fuel line from the pump to the back of each rail, then from the rails to the inports on each sides of the regulator. or under high load the driver side rail is going to go dry as the pass side eats all the fuel.

That's why I asked. Looks like he's got the FPR in front and I was always told to have the FPR at the tail end to ensure the rails stay full to feed the injectors before sending the excess back to the tank.

you can have a bypass regulator where ever you want, as long as its after the injectors get fuel so front or back of the motor makes no difference. but he for sure should add that second leg before the regulator... :-)

I haven't measured the pressure drop from the supply line to the regulator, but at the flow rates involved, 1/2" id fuel lines, and 5/8" id fuel rails my own calculations indicate the total pressure drop will be under 1 psi. Here's one guy that provided some sample calculations:
http://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-pe...sizing-936598/
Giving something like 7 feet per fitting still results in a total drop under 1 psi.
The pressure drop from supply to the regulator will be less at wide open throttle as less fuel is flowing through the fittings and hose from one rail to the next.
The parallel system would give more nearly identical pressures but the difference for my setup is not enough to matter.

Figured out the idle stabilizer today :) The trick was to figure out what duty cycle was minimum and max opening using the 'idle valve test mode'. After that a little fiddling with PID constants, and now it is working.

Pulls strong to redline, smooth at most any RPM and load, now it even idles well!

2 or 3 wire idle controller?

I'm sure you won't have a bad issue with that, but being a single feed, with no dampers, the injectors pulses can cause fueling issues. "can" but once you get her tuned i would keep an eye out for AFR variants.

sounds like you are getting there.

i just added a a speed sensor connection to mine. now my data log shows mph and gear!

post up a data log, id be interested to see it.

I'm using a 2 wire PWM idle controller. I'll get some logs posted soon. It is very satisfying to have it behave so well :)

i know the feeling. getting the base tune down is the fun part. after that is all tweaking.