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Thanks Mark for the response . how deep are the notches ? did you rebalance the rotating components ? Do the bores need to be re polished to seat the rings ? The injectors are very controllable with the laptop , fully sequential / cam sensors / tps / map / air temp / water temp . with a 5.8 L bottom end was getting 300 rwhp at 4000 rpm and running out of fuel with 24# injectors
The valve reliefs are only matched to the euro 4.7 valves. About .175" deep. you could almost do this by hand, but it would be really messy and difficult. I balanced the rotating the assembly (crank, pistons , rods ).
Dont touch the bores if they look good. (no deep scratches).
I wonder why the ecu couldnt provide fuel? I'm drowning in fuel with 30lb injectors at 375rwhp .... The 6 liter I work on, is drowning at 330rwhp with 30lb injectors too. I know you have more control with your Programable ecu, but what pressure is the system set at? that's kind of puzzling?
my engine was stock 5 liter at 70psi and perfect 12.2-12.5 mixture at 335rwhp with 19lbers
the strokers are near 45psi and drowning.
when i did my motor, the short block came from a 40k car that had run nothing by synthetic oil, super clean. bores were in excellent shape, so all i did was rings, rod bearings, and notch the pistons.
actually, i think thats what i did with Petty's motor. not sure if we balanced it. however, im leaning toward thinking i did.. ill check my notes. however, on that motor, i didnt split the case. kept the main bearings in place ... OH, that means we didnt balance it. it was a great motor and stilll is. LOTs of power with the euro CIS system..
I am planning on putting a 85 5L bottom end under all the performance 16V stuff I have . And am looking for advice on preparing the short block . Its a 85 with 50 K on it , bores look perfect .
top end list
heads are fully ported ,intake flows 280 , 944 bigger valves /sodium cooled exhaust valves
titanium spring retainers
HP springs
billet cams 110 lobe centers .515 lift on the intake
euro runners
85 32v throttle body
no air flow meter
3 inch velocity stack
32 #injectors
haltech engine management
MSDS ceramic coated headers
Y pipe into a single 3.5 SS system
What is the 3 inch velocity stack? I see no problem with the 32# injectors as long as they the 4 spray hole type. There is two type of euro runner, the ordinary (the S) and the bad (the S2) which one are you using? I made my own custom manifold which services around 250 cfm of air nicely. As discussed before, get your head flowed yourself, they will not flow 280 at any cam lift you have. Get them to then add you intake runner to the head at the various lifts like what I did. Then you will actually know what is going on instead of guessing. However from my experience you will be lucky to flow 225 cfm through a Euro runner when connected to yours or anybody's head. The exhaust is a bit marginal also, I make the presumption that the headers are 1 5/8" and a single 3 1/2". I use 1 3/4" and twin 3" for enough capacity.
CIS intake spider placed the injector out of the air path. Euro MAF spider intake has the same configuration as USA spider only the tubes are larger. The injector boss area is in the path of the air flow.
When I slowly bared over my hybrid engine the exhaust valve contacted the piston, so when doing this engine set up the pistons must to be cut for clearance. I had my pistons cut on a lathe to a depth of .060". I don't agree with hand grinding the piston top adding additional valve reliefs. Each piston top must have the same cc volume, very hard to do by hand. The piston top need to be as thick as possible and adding edges to the piston top makes for good areas of hot spots for detonation.
Below is a old pic of my 1986 5.0L, using USA small valve heads. You can see the lathe cut. The smaller measurement's at the valve sites indicate the lowest clearance valve to piston. .114" exhaust valve very safe for street engine turning 6000 RPM. This measurement was done at full lifter pump.
Later I swapped the USA heads for 1979 Euro. The bigger valves yielded a .080 exhaust valve to piston clearance. That's as close as I want to get.
CIS intake spider placed the injector out of the air path. Euro MAF spider intake has the same configuration as USA spider only the tubes are larger. The injector boss area is in the path of the air flow.
When I slowly bared over my hybrid engine the exhaust valve contacted the piston, so when doing this engine set up the pistons must to be cut for clearance. I had my pistons cut on a lathe to a depth of .060". I don't agree with hand grinding the piston top adding additional valve reliefs. Each piston top must have the same cc volume, very hard to do by hand. The piston top need to be as thick as possible and adding edges to the piston top makes for good areas of hot spots for detonation.
Below is a old pic of my 1986 5.0L, using USA small valve heads. You can see the lathe cut. The smaller measurement's at the valve sites indicate the lowest clearance valve to piston. .114" exhaust valve very safe for street engine turning 6000 RPM. This measurement was done at full lifter pump.
Later I swapped the USA heads for 1979 Euro. The bigger valves yielded a .080 exhaust valve to piston clearance. That's as close as I want to get.
Tony
what did you do here again? what are the values. how did you depress valves and when did the valves contact the piston. Ive done this a bunch of times. with the euro heads and euro cams (and greater) and the valves have .3" of depression to touch the properly cut out pistons. matching the S euro 84 cuts. but the valves never touch the piston, even without the valve cuts (unless you rotate the cams with the pistons at TDC. (broken belt clearance )
First off I'd make sure your wot switch is adjusted and working correctly. If so, run premium and add a few degrees of advance by adjusting the distributor. If you want more do headers and a 3" exhaust. Then do Euro heads/cams.
I have a low power 4.5L and no budget for a major upgrade this year
this thing needs a push to go down hill
is there any mods can be done on a budget to the 4.5L to improve power? bolt-ons?
what 4.5 liter? CIS? anyway the best you can do for relatively cheap might be the headers.... I have a cat that plugs into the devek level 1 headers. almost new . only used it for smog one time. for sale! then, you can use your stock exhuast system. look for about 10-12 hp.
Perhaps do a dyno pull to see what it's putting down, to make sure that it's running as intended? The cheapest first step is always to make it run right, stock.
First off I'd make sure your wot switch is adjusted and working correctly. If so, run premium and add a few degrees of advance by adjusting the distributor. If you want more do headers and a 3" exhaust. Then do Euro heads/cams.
Thx 123quattro but I got to say I don't know what a wot switch is.
What does it do?
06-19-2015, 03:25 PM
