MarkRobinson

I have fresh 30's in my race car with an adjustable regulator: was just curious to see if fuel trimming via fuel pressure is pretty level with these chips.

I understand the chips are not calibrated for 93 octane which is what I'm using: anyone have any thoughts to share on this?

I have a rebuild '86 motor, need to Porken time my cams, polished heads, stock manifolds with 3" exhaust, 2580# car. Car makes 290/290rw with old AA chips.

Mark

JEC_31

Cannot determine until "Scramble Boost" is explained.

elgreco

MarkRobinson

turbo system: the boost controller has a scramble boost option: where at the press of either of the buttons, it switches to the higher preset boost level. This way I can track the infields at 4psi (about 410rwhp) and have 6-7psi as a back-up to pass faster cars on the straight as i need.

I have one track session left before the kit goes on & I go to Texas Mile.

MarkRobinson

I saved a turbo kit for this car, though FMIC is much larger & plumbing is larger.

SMTCapeCod

One of the injector threads got into some degree of detail- but not to the specific question of 30# & S300.

Seems like you'd be better off with stock chips with less spark advance, and using the additional headroom before detonation to increase the turbos pressure.

Or best yet, probably, get the reflashable chips and a custom tune.

Are the two turbos pictured because you are mapping/testing them? It's a single and no sequential setup, right?

I'd be interested to see your results- wideband baseline, duty cycling at psi, etc. ... but can't add anything constructive up front.

MGW-Fla

Mark I have Porken's chips on my '85, & use only 93 octane without any problems. I was not aware they were not intended for 93 octane. I run with stock injectors, the hotter plugs Ken recommends, & the '87 FPR. Course my car is no where near the level of yours.

MarkRobinson

I can only see safer margins in running Ken's chips on my racer with 93 octane & fuel pressure trimming on 30# injectors: lighter weight means less engine-stress, less backpressure (cat-less system), cooler running temperatures (NASCAR radiator & rear-mounted ducted oil cooler).

Unless I've missed something..I've been in sinus-hell this month. :/

MarkRobinson

Single-turbo setup: running a Dual Ballbearing water-cooled Precision 67mm with a .96AR P-trim (3") turbine housing, 4" post-turbo exhaust (not pictured) with 50mm wastegate & smooth re-entry transition (also not pictured)

davek9

I think you mean the "Colder" plugs

I too wondered more fuel = need for more Air, turbo explains that, however how are you reducing the spark advance to keep Knock in-check?

On the 86.5 w/ Kens S300' installed I just use all he's recommended settings and w/ new 24# 4 holes and re-built MAF & '87 FPR. couldn't be happier.

Now on the Nitrous '85, that's a different story...

I use Stock chips (the AA's had too much WOT Advance).
Than when spraying the progressive wet 150 shot, I short the EZF jumper (extra -3deg at WOT) as each 50 hp of N2O requires removing 2 deg's advance on avg.
So the total - WOT retard is at least 8 using stock chips, I've found this combined w/ non-projected two range colder that stock plugs works great for me.

I think I went through at least 6 sets of spark plugs to get it tuned.
Car goes like stink and plugs and AFR right where I like them.

So you could rig a switch(s) to short the EZK and LH, I have/use both.

EDIT: great looking setup & engine

Dave K

MarkRobinson

I'm not turbocharged at the moment: I'll do that in May after my last TWS DE (they're closing the track this summer). So wanting to run it one more time but with timed cams and better chips

Mark

davek9

Mark have you installed a Knock Sensor?
I've done it on both cars, got the idea from P-Ken's work.
Then at least you can hook up a Knock light and or make up an Automated Knock control.
I really would suggest it.

Here is a Pic of the one in my 86.5 (well the connector to it

Nice pic.

MarkRobinson

I probably should...which one are you using? Did you place it at the front-most bolt of runner #5 as the photo might indicate?

davek9

EDIT: Miss read your reply... The Connector Mount goes into the Water Bridge (pictured), I purchased a used connector "Stock Mount w/ clip" from 928 International.

The sensor is a Stock Bosch from an S4, The Sensor is installed in the Front most Block plug in the "V", only place w/ enough space, getting or making a new Block plug that will utilize a bolt in the center is the hardest part.

The Knock sensor that Ken used and I have is no longer available, but there are others just not at the same price point.

JEC_31

That is awesome, thank you. Push to pass!