Brake line tips for changing soft hoses
#18
Rennlist Member
Did you have the same problem I mentioned with the round instead of "D" shaped hardware? I'm curious whether that's something new.
I noticed the difference on the track. My old rubber hoses got soft when they got very hot, scary soft. The Goodridge lines fixed that problem completely.
I noticed the difference on the track. My old rubber hoses got soft when they got very hot, scary soft. The Goodridge lines fixed that problem completely.
Good point about the effect of high operating temps- have not really done any trackwork with this 928 -that being said we have no shortage of heat over here. Probably down to me losing my S4, introduction of radars and more chicken factor with age!
The Goodridge hoses we fitted by the local agents, they did not report any difficulties fitting them and to date they have been trouble free.
Rgds
Fred
#19
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Yep, I didn't get Dr. Bob's advice until after I'd removed all the calipers and let them bleed out.
One thing that helped for me was using the power bleeder and holding the feed line up well above the reservoir to let air in the master cylinder escape. It's sort of a backwards bleed. After getting everything I could out that way, I went through the standard 928 bleed sequence (which is non standard by the way). Rinse and repeat until you get a rock hard pedal and no trace of air anywhere. I believe there's also a procedure for bleeding the master cylinder but I figured I'd try the backwards technique before doing that and never ended up needing to do it.
I think it may have been Stan who suggested putting a vacuum pump on the reservoir and actually bleeding the system backwards. I never tried that either.
As I recall I did around five complete circuits around the car before I got all the air out. It's a PITA.
One thing that helped for me was using the power bleeder and holding the feed line up well above the reservoir to let air in the master cylinder escape. It's sort of a backwards bleed. After getting everything I could out that way, I went through the standard 928 bleed sequence (which is non standard by the way). Rinse and repeat until you get a rock hard pedal and no trace of air anywhere. I believe there's also a procedure for bleeding the master cylinder but I figured I'd try the backwards technique before doing that and never ended up needing to do it.
I think it may have been Stan who suggested putting a vacuum pump on the reservoir and actually bleeding the system backwards. I never tried that either.
As I recall I did around five complete circuits around the car before I got all the air out. It's a PITA.
You can duplicate this function with a couple already-flared lengths of brake tubing from your local parts store. Just cut the line so you have a way to bend the steel and put the cut end into the reservoir. Two pieces of brake tubing will handle four line ports, but IIRC there are only three that have connections on them on the MC. The fourth on mine is already a bleeder port at the top front, so it gets a hose too run back into the reservoir.
You can probably do this on the car if you can adjust the car's attitude enough to get the MC level. Then gentle HAND pushes on the pedal, engine off. If your MC is corroded or has dirt in the front, there's a risk of damaging the front piston cups if you drag them across that area of the bore. Just be gentle on the pedal, don't jam it all the way to the floor while doing this, and hope the remaining air there in the front of the piston migrates out OK.
#20
#23
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I did the bracket mod with a round file. Took a few minutes per bracket. I don't feel it compromised the connection. I also reused the original spring clip doohickies since the new ones aren't wide enough to work with the 928's brackets. All is well so far...