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Brake line tips for changing soft hoses

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Old 01-26-2015, 09:50 PM
  #16  
yardpro
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+ 1,000,000 on drbobs reccoendations.... i am having a nightmare of a time with beeding the lines..
Old 01-26-2015, 11:33 PM
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Pfc. Parts
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Charm

Last edited by Pfc. Parts; 01-30-2015 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Grammer
Old 01-27-2015, 01:25 PM
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FredR
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Originally Posted by Pfc. Parts
Did you have the same problem I mentioned with the round instead of "D" shaped hardware? I'm curious whether that's something new.

I noticed the difference on the track. My old rubber hoses got soft when they got very hot, scary soft. The Goodridge lines fixed that problem completely.
Scott,

Good point about the effect of high operating temps- have not really done any trackwork with this 928 -that being said we have no shortage of heat over here. Probably down to me losing my S4, introduction of radars and more chicken factor with age!

The Goodridge hoses we fitted by the local agents, they did not report any difficulties fitting them and to date they have been trouble free.

Rgds

Fred
Old 01-27-2015, 08:19 PM
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dr bob
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Originally Posted by Pfc. Parts
Yep, I didn't get Dr. Bob's advice until after I'd removed all the calipers and let them bleed out.

One thing that helped for me was using the power bleeder and holding the feed line up well above the reservoir to let air in the master cylinder escape. It's sort of a backwards bleed. After getting everything I could out that way, I went through the standard 928 bleed sequence (which is non standard by the way). Rinse and repeat until you get a rock hard pedal and no trace of air anywhere. I believe there's also a procedure for bleeding the master cylinder but I figured I'd try the backwards technique before doing that and never ended up needing to do it.

I think it may have been Stan who suggested putting a vacuum pump on the reservoir and actually bleeding the system backwards. I never tried that either.

As I recall I did around five complete circuits around the car before I got all the air out. It's a PITA.
So, a few decades ago we could by ATE-rebuilt as well as new master cylinders for German cars I owned at the time. Along with the master cylinders came a kit with an assortment of plastic fittings that would screw into the various ports on the master cylinder. They were really plastic bleed nipples, didn't shut off when tightened, and the tapered tip actually sealed while the port was open. Along with all that was an instruction that encouraged you to use all those fittings and hoses to "bench bleed" the new or rebuilt part prior to installation. Simple stuff -- clamp the master cylinder level in a vise. Install the plastic fittings, and route the hoses that came with them right back into the reservoir. I used a office binder clamp to keep the hoses in place. Fill the reservoir with fluid. Using a screwdriver, push the piston in and out a few times slowly to get everything full, then a little faster until no more air bubbles were passing through the hoses. Then mount the master cylinder, remove each plastic fitting and immediately connect the corresponding original steel line. That way no air would be left in the master cylinder, only liquid all the way to the discharge port. Holding the cylinder level is important, especially if the discharge port is not at the top of the bore inside. I learned to do a few strokes level, some with node low, some with nose high, so there's no place for air to hide in the ends of either piston cavity area.

You can duplicate this function with a couple already-flared lengths of brake tubing from your local parts store. Just cut the line so you have a way to bend the steel and put the cut end into the reservoir. Two pieces of brake tubing will handle four line ports, but IIRC there are only three that have connections on them on the MC. The fourth on mine is already a bleeder port at the top front, so it gets a hose too run back into the reservoir.

You can probably do this on the car if you can adjust the car's attitude enough to get the MC level. Then gentle HAND pushes on the pedal, engine off. If your MC is corroded or has dirt in the front, there's a risk of damaging the front piston cups if you drag them across that area of the bore. Just be gentle on the pedal, don't jam it all the way to the floor while doing this, and hope the remaining air there in the front of the piston migrates out OK.
Old 01-27-2015, 11:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dr bob
So, a few decades ago we could by ATE-rebuilt as well as new master cylinders for German cars I owned at the time...
I just knew there was a good story in there. Thanks.
Old 01-27-2015, 11:50 PM
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Strange

Last edited by Pfc. Parts; 01-30-2015 at 07:32 AM.
Old 01-28-2015, 12:13 AM
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Flat

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Old 01-28-2015, 12:38 AM
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I did the bracket mod with a round file. Took a few minutes per bracket. I don't feel it compromised the connection. I also reused the original spring clip doohickies since the new ones aren't wide enough to work with the 928's brackets. All is well so far...
Old 01-28-2015, 01:11 AM
  #24  
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Erf

Last edited by Pfc. Parts; 01-30-2015 at 07:32 AM.



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