rcwkr

Rescued a 928s "from the crusher" last fall from a salvage yard via E-Bay.
This is my 2nd shark, the other one being a '79 grey market 5sp. The '84 is overall in much better shape than my previous. Needs a lot of sorting, but I'd like to get it running to decide if further investment it warranted. I took quite a bath on the other one after 10 years of work and parts!
I actually have 2 sets of manuals, just bought the latest 8 pc set to cover any I might try in the future. I'm between hand surgeries and have been limited to very little tinkering as yet. Have a noid light set, and a familiarity with the mass of fuses and relays that set all our teeth on edge on a regular basis. I'd love to be nudged in a few logical directions by the more experienced posters that I've been perusing for years. Thanks in advance!
(There will be much bowing and scraping later as well!)

Wisconsin

I had an issue after I installed new plugs with an immediate stall. I cleaned all the plug wire s with a Q tip and a mild degreaser and the issue was gone.

rcwkr

I have a new set of plugs to install....it'd be fantastic if that fixed it, but it needs done anyway......prolly tomorrow or Monday!

Mrmerlin

did you replace the green wire or does it look fresh?
did you test the resistors bolted to the passenger side fenderwell?
if one is broken the engine wont start if the green wire is old replace it

rcwkr

No test of the green wire or resistors yet.......it starts easily every time I try, it just dies within a second or two.

Mrmerlin

test the resistors at the fenderwell,
starts then cuts out classic broken resistor.
if your green wire looks brown and or the insulation has any cracks replace it

James Bailey

your 84 USA spec has nine fuel injectors...one is for cold start. Perhaps that is the only injector which is working ??? a Noid light might be your best friend..... you need to confirm that the 8 other injectors are actually firing.

rcwkr

Thanks Mr. M.! The Green wire is still mostly green, and seems solid from what is easily traceable. Pulled both resistors and tried to test, but my Radio Shack multimeter isn't giving me consistent readings. I'm gonna take them to a nearby parts chain and see if they can do better, maybe even get universal replacements, if I can find the right resistances. Otherwise I have the 1st of many orders to place with 928 Intl all que'd up! J.B., I'd read that the cold start injector could be all that's working, which makes a lot of sense. Fingers crossed that this will be an easy fix one way or the other!

Tom-928International

Jim;
Bet you lunch its the resisters!!!
Tom

rcwkr

Looks like you may have lost that bet, unfortunately. When my mmeter finally settles down, the readings are just within the specs in the shop manuals. Also tested the coil, same result. Next stop is a plug change. Not too likely, but never a bad idea.

Mrmerlin

OK maybe JB is on a roll then. ...

So we do know the chant, Relay , Relay, Relay

rcwkr

Not a new thing for me......pull, switch, check the connections behind the board.... I was REALLY hoping the resistors woulda fixed it tho.

outbackgeorgia

Just because the resistors bench check OK does not rule out the start sequence of bypassing one resistor. I would have a meter on the 12 v side of the coil and watch that it has voltage after they key is released. Could be the ignition switch, but best to follow real data not guess. Btw, don't hold the probes to the coil, get some small jumpers as arcing from the coil can be dangerous! You can connect at the coil side of the resistor.
Dave

James Bailey

just jumper the coil small + terminal from the jump start post that gives it a full 12 volts....do not run it long that way as it will cook the coil...but will confirm that it is NOT the resistors ....
And yes Tom I would have taken that bet...besides we should have lunch one of these days. Right now trying to fill two truck loads of cars .....got 9 need 3 more.

Landseer

Replace thermotime switch.