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Not Sure I Even Want To Powder Coat?

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Old 01-09-2015, 10:14 PM   #31
The Fixer
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Looking great Dave,

I can't wait to see how this looks when finished.

I think it's really cool how Porsche uses magnesium alloy time and again to save weight over using aluminum. so i googled it and found these points:

Magnesium alloy is/has:..

33% lighter than aluminum.
Similar or greater mechanical properties.
Lower working temperatures extend die life and reduce energy consumption during production.
Machining is faster and easier and machining tools last significantly longer.
Superior thin-walled near net shape casting of larger, more complex parts so there are fewer components and less assembly required.
Greater general corrosion resistance.
Oh and super flammable
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:25 AM   #32
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Thanks Matt.
I think the effort will be worth it.
The casting, at least on the air boxes, was really clean overall. The inset for the pipes on the inside of the box has more texture however, and I won't be able to get a mirror finish like the bridge section.

This first box was stripped first, then two separate media blasts (in a taped off section of my garage--whoa momma the wife is losing patience ). Then what worked best was a rotary wire brush to get the areas with texture, and sanding to eventual 2000 wet. Then cleaning, polish, hit with lacquer thinner, and then the actual shark-hide agent.

What are you doing anyway? I know you are not siting idle. What is going on in the lab?

Regards.
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Old 01-10-2015, 03:37 PM   #33
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Yes that part of the casting will be a lot of work.
But you have plenty of time til Spring.

Have you tried a vibratory tool to get this area flat?

I have a Dremel brand with a chord (chordless is not good for these tools) and there is a metal grinding bit/attachment that may speed things along.

It's gonna look great, take your time.

I'm busy fixing old houses and an old Ford at the moment
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Old 01-10-2015, 04:49 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Kay View Post
You need to meet Ben in Austin. He has powder coated many in the DFW area. He did mine this fall and I'm very pleased with the results. He also did Rodgers' and The Charlie Car. Sean has his contact info. Good luck!
+1 for Ben Awesome guy great work here is my 85 intake he did.

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Old 01-10-2015, 07:22 PM   #35
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I thought you weren't supposed to PC/paint the
inside of the tubes.
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:37 PM   #36
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Very nice, they turn out good. With a very nice patina formed from the oxidation. I like that.
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Old 01-11-2015, 03:25 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadddio View Post
I thought you weren't supposed to PC/paint the
inside of the tubes.
Mine were factory coated/painted (I disagree with an earlier post, I believe they were powder coated originally) on the inside. I sent mine out to Olympic Coatings in San Diego (Escondido really) two years ago, same place Dwayne sent his (see Dwayne's writeup in the DIY 928 section on Intake Refresh/TB replacement for more details).

I had two sets of intakes; one done stock, a very close match to the Zermat Silver someone else mentioned, the other in a Silver Vein that was to go on my track car, which is a project I've abandoned. Both came out great and the stock version's been on my street car for two years now and it still looks as good as the day I got it back from Olympic. The did the entire intake for about $150 + shipping.

I haven't been able to contact them lately so I'm not sure they're still in business but they do excellent work.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:33 AM   #38
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Daddio, I've coated the 85-86 runners both ways over the years. (masking the ends off the runners vs letting the PC 'roll' around to the inside. As far as I"m concerned they can be done either way. Each as their advantages and shortcomings. Prep is important as well as controlling where the powder goes as it's leaving your gun.
Porsche did coat everything from the factory. There certainly was no masking on mating surfaces or the like.
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Old 01-23-2015, 12:59 PM   #39
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Update bump from the backpages and developing bursitis in both elbows as a result:
Attachment 905144
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Old 01-23-2015, 01:01 PM   #40
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Ok. lets try this:
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:15 PM   #41
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Wild! Post a follow-up after you've cleared for sure.
The real challenge will be sanding out the cam covers.
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:41 PM   #42
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Here are the latest pics of the intake.

Winding down the project, too much work involved to do the cam covers right now. Maybe next winter.
Results are good, I think!
Some cast defects were too deep to sand out, but I guess that adds to the "look".
The alloy was too soft to use any size rotary tools, it all has to be done by hand, unfortunately.
I have to button her up and detail, but this is where it is at:

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Name:  IMG_1361 (598x800).jpg
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Size:  321.1 KB
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:45 AM   #43
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Wow! That looks amazing.
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:49 AM   #44
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You might want to check into what the VW crowd is up to as well. These guys manage to get a chrome finish on everything, even cast alloy parts. It's amazing!

http://vwfanatics.nl/index.php/membe...heij-jetta-mk1
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Old 01-31-2015, 02:16 PM   #45
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Dear Crumpler: I use CT Coatings in Hartford CT for my powdercoat work. He does many Cobra frames and antique car frames as well. 30+ years in the business..prices are OK and reasonable..I've used him on many car projects in the past and his work has been great..Stands behind his work as well..no hassle on any work that I've had to return. (only 1 piece out of many)...phone is (860) 528-8281...He was/is a chemist and mixes his own powders..so custom metalflake is no problem..does ceramic high heat stuff as well, inside and outside of exhaust manifolds and headers no pblm. recommend him highly..gets parts from all over...and treats the parts and customers VERY well. Thanks, Tiger 03447
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