no horn
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
no horn
I guess this is why my horn doesn't work? Any fix short of replacement at $150?
I guess the Momo adaptor still need this horn contact to work if I swap for a Momo or Luisi? Thx
I guess the Momo adaptor still need this horn contact to work if I swap for a Momo or Luisi? Thx
#2
Rennlist Member
The mono adapter uses a horn button. The button has the power wire just like the stock pad. It is grounded with a separate wire that is grounded to the hub itself. I think that makes the brass tab on the turn signal assembly irrelevant.
Having said that, 928 international is in the middle of their end of the year clearance sale. You should be able to pick up a used turn signal assembly well less than $150.
Having said that, 928 international is in the middle of their end of the year clearance sale. You should be able to pick up a used turn signal assembly well less than $150.
#3
Rennlist Member
I rebuilt my switch assembly about a year ago from two old switch assy's. I took the best parts from each one and cleaned, polished, lubed, etc. and came up with a good switch. It was a much bigger job then I thought and I probably had 8 hours time in it total. Not sure I would do it again. I have a spare horn contact that's in fair shape that you can have if you want. BTW - That 'rivet' you see is actually the end of a two inch long pin that goes towards the back of the switch. Since other parts of the switch have plenty of wear I would recommend buying a new switch assy.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have only one wire coming out so it seems the horn contact is the grounding wire? How do you get this hook up to the Momo adaptor since it has 2 wires? Does the Momo adaptor has it's own horn ring/ contact?
PCARUSA- I'd love to get that horn tab if you can PM me your contact/ address so I can pick it up tonight? I was planning to weld/ solder a contact cut out from a brass sheet but problem is finding a source locally.
I got too many other things to sink $$ into this 928 so I want to minimize expenses. Debating about getting the new engine harness from Carl and possible new radiator from Mark soon since I think it has a leak and the old harness is falling apart. Thanks.
PCARUSA- I'd love to get that horn tab if you can PM me your contact/ address so I can pick it up tonight? I was planning to weld/ solder a contact cut out from a brass sheet but problem is finding a source locally.
I got too many other things to sink $$ into this 928 so I want to minimize expenses. Debating about getting the new engine harness from Carl and possible new radiator from Mark soon since I think it has a leak and the old harness is falling apart. Thanks.
Last edited by Bmw635; 12-09-2014 at 02:41 PM.
#5
Rennlist Member
The hub mounts to the column by itself. The steering wheel then mounts to the hub using six or eight bolts. I used one of these bolts as a ground attachment point.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Fixing the ignition key cylinder since it begins to bind so cluster is out and become its own project: alternator gauge light fix, cluster reflector improvement, cleaning lens and gauges, D light indicator. Freebie with this horn contact fix. Sounds like i just opened a can of worms. Thanks.
#7
Rennlist Member
Hi Peter - I did PM you. You will need the copper strip in order for the factory wheel to work.
Also I would highly recommend North Hollywood Speedometer to do your gage/cluster repair. I had them do mine about 4 years ago with the white custom LED changeover and it came out beautifully. They mentioned that they have done many other 928's before.
Also I would highly recommend North Hollywood Speedometer to do your gage/cluster repair. I had them do mine about 4 years ago with the white custom LED changeover and it came out beautifully. They mentioned that they have done many other 928's before.
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#8
Team Owner
Roger sells the new replacement for the broken brass horn tab.
The Momo adapter hub has two wires in it,
so that the new wheel will function just as the factory wheel does.
NOTE that you must reset the turn signal switch height whenever you replace the steering wheel.
This is done with the lower column cover removed,
install the wheel,
then looking upwards , move the switch upwards till the horn tab just touches the horn ring,
then test the horn,
then tighten the switch.
add a small dab of grease to the horn tab
The Momo adapter hub has two wires in it,
so that the new wheel will function just as the factory wheel does.
NOTE that you must reset the turn signal switch height whenever you replace the steering wheel.
This is done with the lower column cover removed,
install the wheel,
then looking upwards , move the switch upwards till the horn tab just touches the horn ring,
then test the horn,
then tighten the switch.
add a small dab of grease to the horn tab
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Peter - I did PM you. You will need the copper strip in order for the factory wheel to work.
Also I would highly recommend North Hollywood Speedometer to do your gage/cluster repair. I had them do mine about 4 years ago with the white custom LED changeover and it came out beautifully. They mentioned that they have done many other 928's before.
Also I would highly recommend North Hollywood Speedometer to do your gage/cluster repair. I had them do mine about 4 years ago with the white custom LED changeover and it came out beautifully. They mentioned that they have done many other 928's before.
The odo gears were replaced and that's why the clamp for the stalk was crush, horn tab was broken from the previous repair by PO. I know how to do this since it's common on BMW if need to again.
I am debating about upgrading LED but this will delay the job longer than I want to keep it going. Thanks- see you tonight.
Peter
#10
Nordschleife Master
The horn contact is replaceable - but takes some ingenuity and willingness to swap out on a pre-90 car.
On 90-onwards cars its trivially replaceable and they're the ones the spare contact piece is available for.
On (at least 87-89 S4) there is a small circlip on the horn contact pin, inside the switch lever casing which holds that contact in place. Support the lever assembly carefully and you can knock it out with a hammer/press pushing the pin out from the back (so the whole plastic piece with broken tab comes off the front side) - just make sure you shake the circlip out from inside the assembly before putting it all together an back in the car, and support it carefully so as not to bend/break the front or back of the housing.
The differences between the original piece and the replacement 90-onwards part are the electrical pin diameter and the depth of the black plastic the contact is mounted to.
I overcame both issues, but its not for the faint-hearted (this was for my '89 - as the 89 switch assembly is unique to that MY and hideously expensive). To fix the pin diameter issue, I cut the end off the original pin, drilled a hole in it, and soldered it over the narrower pin on the replacement part. For the plastic, I just used a file to make it the right depth.
For my '87, I had to buy a new switch assembly anyway as the indicator lever was broken, which came with a new horn contact on it. For $150, it was relatively cheap (89 assembly is more like $500 from memory).
On 90-onwards cars its trivially replaceable and they're the ones the spare contact piece is available for.
On (at least 87-89 S4) there is a small circlip on the horn contact pin, inside the switch lever casing which holds that contact in place. Support the lever assembly carefully and you can knock it out with a hammer/press pushing the pin out from the back (so the whole plastic piece with broken tab comes off the front side) - just make sure you shake the circlip out from inside the assembly before putting it all together an back in the car, and support it carefully so as not to bend/break the front or back of the housing.
The differences between the original piece and the replacement 90-onwards part are the electrical pin diameter and the depth of the black plastic the contact is mounted to.
I overcame both issues, but its not for the faint-hearted (this was for my '89 - as the 89 switch assembly is unique to that MY and hideously expensive). To fix the pin diameter issue, I cut the end off the original pin, drilled a hole in it, and soldered it over the narrower pin on the replacement part. For the plastic, I just used a file to make it the right depth.
For my '87, I had to buy a new switch assembly anyway as the indicator lever was broken, which came with a new horn contact on it. For $150, it was relatively cheap (89 assembly is more like $500 from memory).
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thx Mrmerlin for the contact adjustment method. I was discussing offline on the correct adjustment method.
I'll place order with Roger for the horn contact and might order the harness that Carl makes. Great info from everyone. Thx much.
I'll place order with Roger for the horn contact and might order the harness that Carl makes. Great info from everyone. Thx much.