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Any useful hints for removing vinyl decals in the embossed Porsche script on the rear bumper? I would normally use a combination of dental floss, heat and the mildest solvent I could, but the depressed nature of the location makes it much more difficult. What have others done to remove the old stickers?
Depending on how it looks once removed, I will either leave it "naked" or put new lettering in place.
Best idea so far seems to be Stan's suggestion of " PB blaster and heat " plus fingernail or similar, but still looks to be a major PITA with some risk to paint.
I used a heat gun. Mine had been outlined with masking tape for bumper respray so there were edges. These edges ruined (actually I ruined) the new pieces to be applied. They are so thin as to be almost unworkable. Thankfully Nicole had the silver and black raised lettering. These look fantastic and hid many flaws from respray. As hooked on cars is no longer here I am not sure who carries these or if anyone does.
I used a heat gun. Mine had been outlined with masking tape for bumper respray so there were edges. These edges ruined (actually I ruined) the new pieces to be applied. They are so thin as to be almost unworkable. Thankfully Nicole had the silver and black raised lettering. These look fantastic and hid many flaws from respray. As hooked on cars is no longer here I am not sure who carries these or if anyone does.
Ken since the letters on your PU have been previously messed with ,
you can see the paint edges from a respray,
I would suggest that you get the plastic colored letters and apply them after using some wax and grease remover,
if the self stick adhesive on the letters doesnt work,
mask off around the letter,
then use some aircraft grade silicone sealant to adhere the letters,
NOTE tape the letters onto the bumper with blue tape, while the silicone sealant sets up.
only use blue tape
Try soaking them overnite or more first with some 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, perhaps in a rag or towel. They may just peal right off with your fingernail.
Not sure how floss would help in a recessed area. I wouldn't allow any slow solvents to soak overnight on my car's behind.
These are real tough to get it all out.
Next time i do this i will tape off the rear cover to the vinyl all around the PORSCHE recesses and use a dremel tool on low speed with soft wire wheel (try the brass one) and simply use this to take it all off with careful touch. again on low speed. This will work.
Lot of prep time to do it carefully but once taped (use green 3M) it would be a snap and would actually get it all off.
Actually taping the major upper and lower horizontals will be fast in long tape lengths.
You can buy the right width vinyl tape use for painting to do between the areas of the letters. Comes in all widths.
...Next time i do this i will tape off the rear cover to the vinyl all around the PORSCHE recesses and use a dremel tool on low speed with soft wire wheel (try the brass one) and simply use this to take it all off with careful touch. again on low speed...
I have a dremel brush wheel with plastic bristles.
I'd be very wary of using metal bristled brushes, even with a very light, very careful touch.
I don't have that kind of hand-eye coordination.
Plastic brushes (no affiliation or recommendation, just the first site I found with pics):
Joe, the brass bristles are so fine and soft but i see your point.
If the OP's car has clearcoat then trying Xylene to soften then a plastic brush wheel may be the way to go.
As with everything finish related, try the least abrasive methods first.
Meaning try the cotton buffing wheels w/ the dremel on the vinyl letters after solvent (Xylene) soak it for time if you've got clearcoat as this will protect your paint.. then the plastic dremel wheel f this won't get it, then the brass.
The brass wheel i thought best because it could be effective at slow speed whereas the plastic may be only effective at higher speeds which creates heat.
Do this:
Try softening the letters with solvent then the cotton dremel buffing wheels with compound to add an abrasive safely.
then if that doesn't work try the plastic ans so on. just use the dremel on slow setting !
The back of my can of 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner says:
General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner effectively removes reactive adhesives. Will not dissolve or mar automotive paint that has been properly aged. (Since paint aging is a variable characteristic, this cleaner should be applied on a small, hidden area of the same panel to test for possible mar or dulling before use.) Also suitable for use on vinyl or glass surfaces.
(Note: by me, I and my trim guy, Doug, commonly use this stuff on leather also.) Then the can says:
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: 3M Adhesive Cleaner may be applied directly to cool painted automotive surfaces to remove excessive adhesive. On areas where adhesive is thoroughly dried and quite old, cleaner should be allowed to soak into the old adhesive by saturating a clean, soft cloth and lightly rubbing areas to be cleaned. Wipe off and repeat if necessary. Finally wipe dry with a clean, soft cloth.
I have used this stuff to soak through leather in order to loosen the contact cement holding it on when I have the need to make some adjustment in the strata to which the leather is glued. Works great. If you are afraid to soak it for overnite, I suggest that you try it with a soaked cloth allowing it to puddle around the emblems and then trying to lift the edges of the items to be removed and working the cleaner around it. They will likely come off pretty readily.
This stuff is available at your automotive paint store.
12-02-2014, 10:07 AM
Removing "Porsche" decal in rear bumper.
