Thrust Bearing Failure (Almost?)
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thrust Bearing Failure (Almost?)
Did I catch this just in time?
The first pic was taken looking at the back side of the bearing, the second pic was taken looking at the front side of the bearing.
The first pic was taken looking at the back side of the bearing, the second pic was taken looking at the front side of the bearing.
#4
Team Owner
the only way to tell is to put the crank into the saddle and then check the end float.
NOTE the marks on the block are normal marks,
what are the readings for the end float ?
NOTE make sure the thrust bearing isnt loose in the saddle before measuring,
or better yet fit the girdle,
then tap the rear of the crank with a hammer and block of wood to seat the thrust bearing,
then torque the girdle bolts,
then take a reading
NOTE the marks on the block are normal marks,
what are the readings for the end float ?
NOTE make sure the thrust bearing isnt loose in the saddle before measuring,
or better yet fit the girdle,
then tap the rear of the crank with a hammer and block of wood to seat the thrust bearing,
then torque the girdle bolts,
then take a reading
#5
Supercharged
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It looks like there is still a lot of material on both sides.
When I pulled the girdle on my 85 Euro, it looked pretty much the same. Granted the engine was toast, but that was because of a different issue.
Has anyone separated the girdle with a 100k mile car with something that looks different?
When I pulled the girdle on my 85 Euro, it looked pretty much the same. Granted the engine was toast, but that was because of a different issue.
Has anyone separated the girdle with a 100k mile car with something that looks different?
#6
I have taken three 16v motors apart and have never seen that kind if wear, not even close. All three engines had less than 85K.
Is this kind of wear typical?
However, one engine had a piston that looked like it was hit with a shotgun and the head was pretty boogered up. Most likely some kind of FOD got in through the spark plug hole at some point.
Is this kind of wear typical?
However, one engine had a piston that looked like it was hit with a shotgun and the head was pretty boogered up. Most likely some kind of FOD got in through the spark plug hole at some point.
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#8
Team Owner
These marks are normal machining marks.
Your block is not damaged do you understand that?
You will note the surface of the bearing is mostly worn on the front side,
See the copper color.
this because the crank is pulled rearwards when the clutch is pushed.
On automatic cars the rear side of the bearing gets worn down.
Follow the instructions in the WSM for seating the thrust bearing then take your end float reading
Your block is not damaged do you understand that?
You will note the surface of the bearing is mostly worn on the front side,
See the copper color.
this because the crank is pulled rearwards when the clutch is pushed.
On automatic cars the rear side of the bearing gets worn down.
Follow the instructions in the WSM for seating the thrust bearing then take your end float reading
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
These marks are normal machining marks.
Your block is not damaged do you understand that?
You will note the surface of the bearing is mostly worn on the front side,
See the copper color.
this because the crank is pulled rearwards when the clutch is pushed.
On automatic cars the rear side of the bearing gets worn down.
Follow the instructions in the WSM for seating the thrust bearing then take your end float reading
Your block is not damaged do you understand that?
You will note the surface of the bearing is mostly worn on the front side,
See the copper color.
this because the crank is pulled rearwards when the clutch is pushed.
On automatic cars the rear side of the bearing gets worn down.
Follow the instructions in the WSM for seating the thrust bearing then take your end float reading
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...surements.html
#10
Team Owner
ahh OK I misread your concern about catching the wear of the thrust bearing,
since its apart also check the crank thrust face
since its apart also check the crank thrust face
#11
Race Car
I understand perfectly, I never thought the block was damaged and know that the "swirling" is normal and due to machining during manufacturing. What I didn't realize (until yesterday) is not to start the car with the clutch pushed in.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...surements.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...surements.html