Backend Refresh : Which Rubber to Replace?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Backend Refresh : Which Rubber to Replace?
Hi All
So, the topend refresh on my 90GT 2 years ago went well. Now we are moving to the backend. I'm trying to gather some ideas about which rubber I should replace. A note: the PO put some after market wheels on, and now that I have gone back to D90s to test the RDK system, I'm noticing some abnormal wear on the outside of both new tires in back (car is 100% accident free.) I either need an alignment OR some of the rubber was over stretched.
First:
The scope of the work will be about this:
1.) Replace fuel pumps (and rubber hose in the inner fuel pump)
2.) Replace rear shocks with Konis
3.) Rebuild TT by sending it to Constantine
4.) Repack rear wheel bearings
5.) Replace critical rubber?
Second:
So, the question to debate is, for a rather low mile car, what rubber should I replace back there when everything is apart? Are there any real sticklers that I should just do now because they are likely to wear out? I am aware that some of this rubber might be stupid expensive, but I can deal with it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Regards,
John
So, the topend refresh on my 90GT 2 years ago went well. Now we are moving to the backend. I'm trying to gather some ideas about which rubber I should replace. A note: the PO put some after market wheels on, and now that I have gone back to D90s to test the RDK system, I'm noticing some abnormal wear on the outside of both new tires in back (car is 100% accident free.) I either need an alignment OR some of the rubber was over stretched.
First:
The scope of the work will be about this:
1.) Replace fuel pumps (and rubber hose in the inner fuel pump)
2.) Replace rear shocks with Konis
3.) Rebuild TT by sending it to Constantine
4.) Repack rear wheel bearings
5.) Replace critical rubber?
Second:
So, the question to debate is, for a rather low mile car, what rubber should I replace back there when everything is apart? Are there any real sticklers that I should just do now because they are likely to wear out? I am aware that some of this rubber might be stupid expensive, but I can deal with it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Regards,
John
#2
Rennlist Member
Rear wheel bearings are sealed units. Consider replacing the bushings in the upper arm "dog bones" and the lower control arm bushings at the camber adjusters. If you are taking the trans out to remove the torque tube go ahead and do the sway bar bushings as well.
Mike
Mike
#3
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Hi John,
I would suggest replacing all fuel tank lines as far as they are still available, including the vent hoses. You'd have to drop the tank thought. Also replace the transmission mounts. Regrease the half shafts and replace the rubber bellows.
I always wanted to replace all suspension bushings but have never found replacements.
I would suggest replacing all fuel tank lines as far as they are still available, including the vent hoses. You'd have to drop the tank thought. Also replace the transmission mounts. Regrease the half shafts and replace the rubber bellows.
I always wanted to replace all suspension bushings but have never found replacements.
#4
Nordschleife Master
You can't remove the rear wheel bearings without destroying them and buying new ones. If you decide to fit new ones, then while you have the opportunity, take apart the hub and clean/paint/plate all the bits on the hub.
Otherwise, the most important rubber bits are, IMO, the transmission mounts, and the rubber bushings in the upper suspension arms (the "dog bone" shaped arms).
Otherwise, the most important rubber bits are, IMO, the transmission mounts, and the rubber bushings in the upper suspension arms (the "dog bone" shaped arms).
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#6
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Most important in my book are the camber bushes as they are close to the exhaust and seem to suffer to the extent that it is hard to get camber to the original setting. On my GTS I replaced all the bushes but in retrospect they were all good apart from the camber bushings.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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Now with my salesman's hat on replace all bushes, main suspension pins and nuts, both wheel bearings, shocks, dust covers and shock bumpers. 8>)
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dear All
Thanks for this valuable feedback. I understand then that the consensus recommendation is to change part 28 in the attached picture.
Actually, I was planning to do the transmission mounts too, though I didn't expect them to be critical. I've actually replaced the sway bar bushings on my SAAB 900 several times. So, maybe I should really consider this too. Leon, I didn't think about the other lines in the gas tank...
Let me mull through this. Of course, who knows what will be found when I actually get in there...
When I get that far, I'll post pics. :-)
John
Thanks for this valuable feedback. I understand then that the consensus recommendation is to change part 28 in the attached picture.
Actually, I was planning to do the transmission mounts too, though I didn't expect them to be critical. I've actually replaced the sway bar bushings on my SAAB 900 several times. So, maybe I should really consider this too. Leon, I didn't think about the other lines in the gas tank...
Let me mull through this. Of course, who knows what will be found when I actually get in there...
When I get that far, I'll post pics. :-)
John