hacker-pschorr

This thread came in handy:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...luid-help.html

To full the trans using the fill port I picked up one of these at my local Fleet Farm:



I removed the plastic fitting on the end and attempted to push the plastic hose over the fill nipple. It was just a tad bit too small, so I heated it up with a heat gun and once pliable it slipped right over. The hose clamp was for my peace of mind.
It took just over 1 1/2 quarts, probably due to a slight leak at the pump. Add that to the to-do list.

I pumped in the fluid with the engine running, up to temp and in neutral with the parking brake set. After every 1/4 quart or so, I stopped pumping and went through the gears to get fluid moving around. I'm not sure this was 100% necessary but I was paranoid about over filling.


Yes the car is up on jack stands. I keep the jack under the cross member.

Random trivia, the crush washer for the trans fill port is the same as the oil drain plug on a 16V Scirocco and Saab 9-5.


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928Myles

Thanks for the photo's.

Cheers,
Myles

StratfordShark

Nice work on the AT fill line, but there is a metal coupler that just pushes onto the fitting. Had to get it from Germany though! At the other end there is a standard thread to take a "tail", and plastic line just pushes over this. The coupler specs are in the manual, or maybe the tech service info for the year the fill port showed up.

Your method saves buying the coupler though!

Don Carter

I use the same kind of pump to add fluid to my autos, works great, but I always just put the tube into the open reservoir. Any advantage using the fill port? Seems like more trouble.

hacker-pschorr

Using the fill port was very easy.

Spinning off that red cap above a hot exhaust system seams tricky. Probably easier with the smaller mid-mufflers.

Tony

Ok..so there is no special fitting that goes on that fill port?

as long as the pressure in your hose over comes the force of the ballbearing it fills up?...or does the ball bearing simply have to be removed to fill it this way? is the BB a spring loaded check valve of sorts?

I hate that Fk'n red cap and gawwd knows how many times i have had to deal with it in the past.

hacker-pschorr

There is, Murphy has one but I was too lazy to go get it.

I went the hose route after seeing Greg's post in this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...luid-help.html

I had a drain pan under the port when I removed the cover, only a few drips came out.

Don Carter

Very interesting... I have the large resonators so it is sometimes a pain to get the cap off. I might give this a try.

GT6ixer

Well I was hoping to use this method to top off my '84 auto. Turns out, as you can see below, my transmission does not have the filler adapter shown in Erik's first post. Instead there is just the banjo bolt for the cooler line. Can anyone else confirm that their '83/'84 auto is built without the filler port? Or is mine "special"?



EDIT: Well I should have read down further iin the link to the thread that Erik included. According to Greg Brown: "They "added" this feature in 1987, when they added the muffler on the passenger side, making access to the "red cap" very difficult. Every automatic from 1987 to 1995 has one. I haven't filled one through the "red cap" in 25 years."

So I will be filling into the reservoir via the red cap. Not too hard to get to on the S models at least.

rcrone928

no filler port on my 83

skpyle

Nate, that filler port was introduced on the A28.07 automatic for 1986.5 with the S4 style rear suspension and exhaust. However, as per the WSM, it can be retrofitted to any A28.0* automatic.

Look at this screenshot from AutoAtlanta:






All the parts are still available new, for around $110. I would contact Mark or Tom at 928 International and get them used. No real wear parts, they don't wear out. And, are relatively plentiful as they were fitted to ALL 928 automatics from 1986.5 on.

You want:
QTY 2 900 123 007 30 Sealing ring (get these new, obviously)
QTY 1 960 307 161 01 Banjo bolt
QTY 1 960 307 057 01 Nipple
QTY 1 N0256571 Ball
QTY 1 960 307 163 00 Screw plug

As well, you will need a crush ring for the fitting cap, called the 'Screw plug' here. Of course I can't find a part number for it. It is NOT the same sealing ring as the lines use. I have searched through all my files and photos, and best I could come up with is this photo for reference:



Compare size of the crush ring with the size of the body of the cap.


I know that crush ring is a Porsche crush ring, I just don't remember which one. Mark or Tom might know.


One caveat when installing the fitting: Install the ball in the nipple BEFORE you put the banjo bolt in.


Good Luck!!!


BTW, you REALLY want to do this. It makes filling the transmission MUCH easier than dealing with the red cap.

Shawn Stanford

I have an '82, so no fill port and a differently-shaped reservoir. However, with the typical fill procedure of running the car with the transmission in neutral, the fluid is sucked into the transmission almost as fast as I can pump it in to the reservoir.

dr bob

The first filling effort with the engine off is a snap pushing fluid through this port/fitting. Then fire up the engine and pump the rest in as needed to get to the full line.

I did this in the spring as part of a leak fix, and accidentally overfilled the sump by about four ounces. That's a small fraction of an inch that was 'gained' as the trans continued to heat up. Hmmm... Car drove just a little "different", so I looked and saw the higher level when at full temp. Engine still running and trans still hot, I pulled the cap off the fill port, a wide-mouth bottle, and a little angle probe to lift the ball bearing that forms the check valve in the inner tube. No spring. be careful *** you can get sprayed with HOT ATF. I drained fluid that way until the level was correct, and all was well again.

For the fill, I used vinyl tubing that fit snugly on the port, needed no clamp even as the fluid heated up. Worked a treat. I used the standard little manual gear oil pump with the other end of that hose slid over the discharge tube. Again, no clamp. When you are done, throw the used tubing away and use fresh tubing next time. The heat and the fluid, combined with the detergent cleaning and all, left me with a hardening hose section that wasn't worth the effort to save from last time apparently. Even though it looked clean and new again when I stored i from its last use, the actual unused remainder of the roll sitting right next to it in the little project bag was still as-new.

For grins, I added a "full" line with a black marker to the rear of the reservoir. Much easier to see. How long that mark stays visible there is too early to predict. Might make a little clear p-touch label to go there at some point. Just look up under the butt to see it, no need for scrunching under the wheel with a flashlight and a mirror. Easy to keep clean too. Level is just below the seam on my '89.

demetan

Good day h-p, what was the size of your hose? Do you need alot of pressure to overcome the retaining ball? I tried with an old pressure manual pump sprayer & a piece of 5/16 dia fuel line. I managed to push the line over the fitting but no atf came out, so I figured my pump was the problem, my hose size is too small or it's not able to produce enough pressure to move the bearing.
thnks

Mongo

What is the diameter of the hose that can slip over the male fitting on the transmission?

One more thing. I want to use the quick connect but that 12mm quick connect No. 17-248 is $80 now online. Is there something comparable I can use that would connect to the factory male coupling? I assume it's not a 1/4" NPT because that would make it too easy for us home mechanics.