jthwan22

I am having bunch of electrical problems ie: sunroof, headlights

I pull the corresponding fuses and check with the continuity tester on Digital multi meter and found lots of resistance. I pull all the fuses and polish the termials with Dremal over 2 years ago and now it is grey and corroded again.

What can I do to keep it clean and shinny?

Randy V

DeOxit

MainePorsche

This one for small connections.

jpitman2

As above - I am guessing your have bullet fuses in an early model - ALWAYS helps to tell us your model year! Sometimes the copper arms that hold bullet fuses loose their tension, and need a little bending. The top and bottom arms in this type of fuse board can be pulled off for cleaning. Any signs of moisture in the fuse board area?
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

jthwan22

My car is 88 S4 the fuse is blade type. I took it off before and polish the blades on all the fuses. It turn dull and grey with lots of resistance. Will DeOxit or Di-electric grease keep it clean?

MainePorsche

Sounds like you have a hydration issue in your footwell.
Evaporator drain plugged ? Windshield leak on lower border ? Other firewall violation/source ?

Landseer

Does that on all of them, cheap fuses I'm afraid.

MainePorsche

Ah.
My Board components look good.

Use Deoxit. Avoid grease.

Randy V

Yes, but it's not a grease.

Alan

Just buy better fuses - I buy only Littelfuse brand - always reliable - the Chinese eBay specials are unfortunately just complete crap...

Use some deoxit/stabilant on the blades when reinserting to help clean the sockets, do investigate if you have any water leakage...

Alan

linderpat

never use diaelectric grease on your CE panel. It is non conductive, and acts as an insulator.

MainePorsche

A place, or device, that can let moisture into the area of the CE panel is the flap or 'door' in the firewall on passenger side of firewall in the engine bay. It is seen just medial to the coolant reserve tank. Is 'held on' by two rubber stalks along its top border which go through this flap. Mine had a little 'play' in it, and did not sit flush. I took ringlet connectors and bent them 90 degrees, and placed the rubber stalk through the crimping portion of the connector. I the crimped it on the rubber stalk so it keeps the flap flush and completely closed. I purposely left the ringlet on there at its right angle so if I ever needed to manipulate it, or remove it, I have something to grab and work with.

If this is open, heat/moisture can be introduced in a subtle fashion that may not be grossly obvious, but it can be deleterious to electrical contacts/connections.

Landseer

Mine are coroding in the plastic case in my toolbox.
And in fusebox in my bedroom closet.
Maybe deoxit would help.
Fuse quality is also a factor.
No argument on moisture as an accelerator though!
But are there higher quality fuses than the Littleton?

curtisr

I have often thought about 'jumping' over to a spade-fuse block (or two) but then I go for a walk to clear my head.

MainePorsche

I don't know if they're higher quality than Littelfuse products, but I use Bussman fuses. Made in USA. I find them reliable. My last batch in the CE panel is about 1.5 year old, and they look brand new and this is without Deoxit.