6E171 Rebuild questions
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Okay. That one is in the garbage and I am cleaning up the area and unit to be actually rebuilt.
Got the part numbers from Roger and will order.
I think I learned enough on this dry run to be able to do this properly.
I am going to stick with R12 unless there is some major reason to not do so.
I am not sure the budget is there for redoing the hoses as well.
Got the part numbers from Roger and will order.
I think I learned enough on this dry run to be able to do this properly.
I am going to stick with R12 unless there is some major reason to not do so.
I am not sure the budget is there for redoing the hoses as well.
#19
Chronic Tool Dropper
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A couple R-12 refills will easily offset the costs of using the right hoses.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yeah. They look like over 400 in cost for both though. The system was clearly leaking from the compressor in this case. Its a shame that the costs are so high - it just crimping on some hose onto a ferule or barb.
#21
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Brendan--
Have yours rebuilt locally. MUCH less money.
Have yours rebuilt locally. MUCH less money.
#22
Nordschleife Master
There's a cheaper mastercool tool which you use in a vise, but this hydraulic one also lets me re-do the hose on the hard line that's hard to take off the car with the engine in, by just removing the radiator and condenser.
There are rebuild kits which include ferrules and a bunch of e-clips - you fit the e-clip onto the hardline inside the ferrule, and then crimp it up.
#23
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Brendan-
I'm sorry I'm a bit late to the party, I could have saved you some effort!
As you found, the screws do not need to be removed. Several threads on here make peripheral reference to it, but it didn't sink in until I tried it as well.
Prying on the parts seemed likely to bend something, so I fabbed up a simple tool as shown.
Hopefully the attachments will be clear.
The first pic shows an overview of the parts in question, and a separating tool, made from a bent washer.
The washer has a small nib on one side, and the other side is bent so that it will hold the nut when you tighten the bolt.
Once the washer and nut are threaded on the bolt, you can slip it into the slot, as shown in the 2nd photo.
As you tighten the bolt, the washer prevents the nut from turning and the bolt presses against the casing, gently forcing the 2 pieces apart
-Don
I'm sorry I'm a bit late to the party, I could have saved you some effort!
As you found, the screws do not need to be removed. Several threads on here make peripheral reference to it, but it didn't sink in until I tried it as well.
Prying on the parts seemed likely to bend something, so I fabbed up a simple tool as shown.
Hopefully the attachments will be clear.
The first pic shows an overview of the parts in question, and a separating tool, made from a bent washer.
The washer has a small nib on one side, and the other side is bent so that it will hold the nut when you tighten the bolt.
Once the washer and nut are threaded on the bolt, you can slip it into the slot, as shown in the 2nd photo.
As you tighten the bolt, the washer prevents the nut from turning and the bolt presses against the casing, gently forcing the 2 pieces apart
-Don
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have (hopefully) successfully rebuild the 6E171 unit. New seals all around, and new shaft seals as well.
I put about 4 ounces in the compressor itself, because I have replaced the condenser and the dryer, and added no oil, but did not replace the evaporator.
We shall see, the proof will be cold air.
I have not rehooked the A/C lines as of yet, but will soon.
I will then draw vacuum in the system to see how well it holds.
At that point, either I will fill it myself, or I will bring the car somewhere to get filled. I have researched a bit and some suggest a sort of cleaning evacuation process.
Right now, the A/C clutch tested well on the bench, but it is not engaging on the car when the A/C button is pressed. I may try it briefly with whatever switch jumpered that is suggested elsewhere here.
I put about 4 ounces in the compressor itself, because I have replaced the condenser and the dryer, and added no oil, but did not replace the evaporator.
We shall see, the proof will be cold air.
I have not rehooked the A/C lines as of yet, but will soon.
I will then draw vacuum in the system to see how well it holds.
At that point, either I will fill it myself, or I will bring the car somewhere to get filled. I have researched a bit and some suggest a sort of cleaning evacuation process.
Right now, the A/C clutch tested well on the bench, but it is not engaging on the car when the A/C button is pressed. I may try it briefly with whatever switch jumpered that is suggested elsewhere here.
#25
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The clutch should not engage without pressure in the system, so this is a good thing!
-Don
-Don
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I bought a mastercool hydraulic crimp tool and a bunch of ferrules and barrier hose.
There's a cheaper mastercool tool which you use in a vise, but this hydraulic one also lets me re-do the hose on the hard line that's hard to take off the car with the engine in, by just removing the radiator and condenser.
There are rebuild kits which include ferrules and a bunch of e-clips - you fit the e-clip onto the hardline inside the ferrule, and then crimp it up.
There's a cheaper mastercool tool which you use in a vise, but this hydraulic one also lets me re-do the hose on the hard line that's hard to take off the car with the engine in, by just removing the radiator and condenser.
There are rebuild kits which include ferrules and a bunch of e-clips - you fit the e-clip onto the hardline inside the ferrule, and then crimp it up.
Has anyone else used these? Great reviews. I suppose its "to the google" to find the ends and the hose.
#27
Nordschleife Master
Hi. Looks like this is a sub-500 dollar option if you don't mind some manual wrenching:
Amazon.com: Mastercool (71550) Black Manual A/C Hose Crimper: Automotive
Has anyone else used these? Great reviews. I suppose its "to the google" to find the ends and the hose.
Amazon.com: Mastercool (71550) Black Manual A/C Hose Crimper: Automotive
Has anyone else used these? Great reviews. I suppose its "to the google" to find the ends and the hose.
1. The more expensive hydraulic one includes all sizes including the reduced-barrier sizes (so I might one day use it on other cars). That kit just has the standard 6/8/10/12 sizes.
2. I don't think you can use it to crimp the small fittings on the car (the AC line which runs around the side of the engine bay) as you need to mount it in a vise to get enough torque to crimp the ferrule.
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I didn't buy that one for two reasons..
1. The more expensive hydraulic one includes all sizes including the reduced-barrier sizes (so I might one day use it on other cars). That kit just has the standard 6/8/10/12 sizes.
2. I don't think you can use it to crimp the small fittings on the car (the AC line which runs around the side of the engine bay) as you need to mount it in a vise to get enough torque to crimp the ferrule.
1. The more expensive hydraulic one includes all sizes including the reduced-barrier sizes (so I might one day use it on other cars). That kit just has the standard 6/8/10/12 sizes.
2. I don't think you can use it to crimp the small fittings on the car (the AC line which runs around the side of the engine bay) as you need to mount it in a vise to get enough torque to crimp the ferrule.
Okay. Most everything will be off the car, at least for me. Your first point makes sense however. It is a large increase, however.
I am also having to buy the other servicing toys, such as here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...auges&_sacat=0
I gave three or more cars coming up that will all need similar work - Hose creation, vacuum, test, fill, etc.
I may as well get my cert like Rob did and be able to buy R12.
#30
Archive Gatekeeper
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He's a Goodridge dealer, he knows a little about hoses. His crimper is this scary looking hydraulic cage of death-looking thing: