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Rear Hatch Leak

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Old 05-09-2014, 11:38 AM
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Fnic99
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Default Rear Hatch Leak

Hi. I have a small leak at the top center of the rear hatch (91 S4). I suspect that at some point in the cars history, an audio installer screwed with the hatch seal, or even poked a hole in it, to run a Sirius antennae to the roof. It is very hard to see what is going on in there with the hatch on the car. Is there a write-up somewhere on removal of the hatch and reinstallation? Any easier way to do this? Could this be done by one person? Thanks in advance for your help.
Old 05-09-2014, 11:50 AM
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Fnic99
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Sorry Duplicate Post
Old 05-09-2014, 11:58 AM
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Alan
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Put it all in one thread if its related stuff.

I would not take the hatch off for this - just remove the hatch interior trim to see what is going on.

Alan
Old 05-09-2014, 12:01 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Maybe related, but my 93 GTS had a leak because the body shop did not re-install the hinge gasket after the PO had the car repainted and this let water enter the cabin and caused the headliner leather to pull away and warp the hatch panel. The part number is 928-512-413-07. I would check that it is still there and functioning before I remove the hatch - and yes it is a two person adventure.
Old 05-09-2014, 12:35 PM
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Randy V
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Can I visibly inspect for that hinge seal, Kevin?

Your description sounds just like the condition I have on my GTS.
Old 05-09-2014, 01:40 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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You need to pop off the plastic plug and get in pretty close - but I believe you can. Use a pen light. Alternatively, you can back off the bolts on each hinge one at a time and wiggle the plate under them to confirm the gasket is there. Plan on replacing them even if they are there. They are 10 years old now.
Old 05-09-2014, 03:08 PM
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Fnic99
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Thanks for the replies. The leak is between the hatch and roof. Nothing is getting into the headliner. I will take a better look at it over the weekend. Thanks again.
Old 05-09-2014, 03:14 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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I have a a couple of hatch seals should you need one.
Old 05-09-2014, 03:19 PM
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Fnic99
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Thanks Kevin. Will take a look at it this weekend.
Old 05-09-2014, 06:50 PM
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I have had good luck resealing the hatch seal
to do this.

You will need a few things,
1 good hatch seal,
1 tube of super glue.
NOTE you can reuse your old seal if its isnt cut up ,
super glue can be used to repair small cuts.

1 tube of Hondabond 4 found at the Honda bike dealer
1 tube of Dow Corning 111. found on amazon.

Disconnect the battery.
remove the upper hatch lamp mark the wires.

Remove the the 2 sun visors , and the upper hatch trim panel; 5 push pins hold this on.

Remove the hatch seal .
NOTE use a piece of blue tape to mark the center at the top of the seal ,
this will be used when refitting so the ends will meet in the middle of the lower edge/

Get the seal free and then scrub it with some simple green cleaner and a scrub brush ,
rinse it well.
Leave the seal in the sun to dry and reform, for a few hours

Clean off the mating surface with some degreaser cleaner on a rag,
make sure the top edge is clean.

Get the Hondabond 4 and for about 2 feet on either side of the center tape mark,
inject a good bead into the seal channel.

Working with speed install the seal along the top edge,
once you have this set then work along either side edge and use the HB4 to inject a bead then fit the seal .
NOTE the sealant will run out if the seal isn't placed onto the body seam with haste.

Once the seal is fitted make sure that it is fully seated along its entire length.

Get the Dow Corning 111 and rub some of this onto the outer edge of the seal this will preserve the seal and make it stay softer thus increasing seal integrity.
Refit the hatch trim panel and visors and then the lamp and connect the battery.

NOTE make sure the rear hatch edge is adjusted to the body.

Then test the side adjuster rubbers by placing a piece of paper on the top of each bumper ,
if the bumper pulls free with no drag adjust the bumper upwards so that drag is felt this will keep the hatch from rattling.
Old 05-09-2014, 08:16 PM
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Ninespub
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Mrmerlin: Thanks again, because as usual, you have a solution to nagging issues on the 928. Shouldn't this concise advisory be stickied with the rest of the tips and tricks to keep our 928 alive.....and dry? Can you make this happen?
Old 05-09-2014, 09:42 PM
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Fnic99
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Stan, thanks for the detailed write-up. You should write a book on 928 maintenance and repair. Is there a trick to getting the 5 retaining clips to come out? They won't seem to budge. Also the other side of the trip panel appears to have black silicone oozing out (pic). Am I still going to be able to get it off?
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:59 PM
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Got the panel and the seal off. A section on the top driver side looks very flat in comparison to rest of the seal. No cracks, tears or anything else. Is it worth cleaning or replacing? Does the shape come back? Thanks again for the help.

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
I have had good luck resealing the hatch seal
to do this.

You will need a few things,
1 good hatch seal,
1 tube of super glue.
NOTE you can reuse your old seal if its isnt cut up ,
super glue can be used to repair small cuts.

1 tube of Hondabond 4 found at the Honda bike dealer
1 tube of Dow Corning 111. found on amazon.

Disconnect the battery.
remove the upper hatch lamp mark the wires.

Remove the the 2 sun visors , and the upper hatch trim panel; 5 push pins hold this on.

Remove the hatch seal .
NOTE use a piece of blue tape to mark the center at the top of the seal ,
this will be used when refitting so the ends will meet in the middle of the lower edge/

Get the seal free and then scrub it with some simple green cleaner and a scrub brush ,
rinse it well.
Leave the seal in the sun to dry and reform, for a few hours

Clean off the mating surface with some degreaser cleaner on a rag,
make sure the top edge is clean.

Get the Hondabond 4 and for about 2 feet on either side of the center tape mark,
inject a good bead into the seal channel.

Working with speed install the seal along the top edge,
once you have this set then work along either side edge and use the HB4 to inject a bead then fit the seal .
NOTE the sealant will run out if the seal isn't placed onto the body seam with haste.

Once the seal is fitted make sure that it is fully seated along its entire length.

Get the Dow Corning 111 and rub some of this onto the outer edge of the seal this will preserve the seal and make it stay softer thus increasing seal integrity.
Refit the hatch trim panel and visors and then the lamp and connect the battery.

NOTE make sure the rear hatch edge is adjusted to the body.

Then test the side adjuster rubbers by placing a piece of paper on the top of each bumper ,
if the bumper pulls free with no drag adjust the bumper upwards so that drag is felt this will keep the hatch from rattling.
Old 05-10-2014, 02:03 AM
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Mrmerlin
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if the seal has no cuts,
please follow the directions posted.,
the seal should return to some sort of normalcy after a scrub and then sitting in the sun.

IDK how to get this posted to the tips thread, but it could be.
Old 05-10-2014, 11:47 PM
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granprixweiss928
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I get drips in the car when I wash it, seems to come from right above the hinges. what do the seals look like and where do they go? I checked the main seal and it looks in good shape, not all flat and no tears

EDIT: I found a post related https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ing-parts.html


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