Bmw635

Upon buttoning up the TB job, 2 of the 6 or 8 gauge power wire from the jumper connection to alt side and the junction by the PS pump goes to alt area has it's insulation crumpled. Are these available as new and any ideas where it terminates? I haven't jack the car up to climb under and see as I am rebuilding the alternator. I can have it made if I know where it goes.

Good news is the engine fires up perfectly so the big task of restoring this car is behind. Now, I still have lots of little things to sort through next. Thanks for all the replies, comments to help me move this project along.

James Bailey

The alternator/starter harness is 928 607 002 17 but is no longer available from Porsche and was several hundreds of dollars when it was......

Bmw635

I guess I can pull the cable on the PS side out of its sleeve where it terminate near the alt ? Looks like same for jumper connection?

I should have traced these 2 cables to where it goes and build a set to replace it while everything was out. It's more work now that I have to work around all the hoses. Thanks.

Bmw635

Well, I stumbled upon this post about potential fire caused by the 2 ABS cable I mentioned above- good thing I found this before my car goes up in flame. http://members.rennlist.com/captearlg/91GT1.html

Bmw635

Well, the car failed smog today due to high NO measurement. I was hoping it pass so I can move on to fixing interior lights/ power door locks.

High NO indicate lean condition. Also, engine idles rough (compression 170-180psi, newer spark plugs/ wires/ cap & rotors). High idle at 1400rpm. PO used oiled K&N. All of these symptoms are indication of MAF failure? Any other test I can do to confirm? Tia.

Peter

Rob Edwards

The high idle is indicative of an air leak in/under/around the intake- If I can find my tester we can try to pressurize the intake and look/listen for leaks. I have a good MAF we can swap in on Sunday to test with, and have some CRC MAF cleaner.

James Bailey

Wow, now THAT is being HELPFULL !!!!

Bmw635

I met up with a local 928 expert residence to figure out the lean issue. Since everything checked out, he offered his spare maf to test, the engine comes alive after the swap. No more misses, smooth idle at 700rpm, so I am sure the lean condition will be cured.

I tried to clean the maf but no use due to prolonged contamination of the oiled K&N filter by prvious owner.

Meanwhile , some of the old plugs/ connectors falling off the pins and I am trying to source these or know what they are since PET doesn't show location.

The first 2 are the MB connector and the other one plug into the top 1/2 body in the shadow (knock sensor?). What it is and is there a housing that I can replace?



The 3rd one is under the hump of this injector cover, pulse/crank sensor?


Thanks.

Rob Edwards

Peter-

The two crumbled connectors, the first in the shadow of your pic and the second under the passenger side injector rail cover are the front and rear knock sensor connectors. Typically if the connector has crumbled it means that the the sensor wiring under the intake has com apart as well and you should replace the sensors. But that involves an intake R&R... The best way to check them for now would be to plug your car into a Bosch spanner or hammer and check for knock sensor faults. I have a Spanner you can borrow- will have to grab it from my storage garage.

The mercedes benz connector is 0085450928, there's one on Ebay right now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251389560129?lpid=82


But their shipping is mildy insane.

The same connector is used on one of the LH harness connectors above the CE panel:



Probably just easier to repair the bare barrel connectors with a little shrinkwrap for now:

Bmw635

Are there 2 or 4 knock sensors total?

Where does the rear passenger side knock sensor mount onto? I traced the wire down to the bell housing area but too deep to continue so I assume it's the crank sensor on the fly wheel. What sensor is located by the bell housing driver side ( crank sensor)?

I'll try to go to LKQ junk yard in Anaheim to salvage those MB connector housings on Sun . The heat shrink tubing is great idea so I may do that if I cant get to the yard.

The knock sensor only retard timing to avoid engine damage so if its dead, it's Ok as long as engine doesn't pre-detonate? I'd like to to the cam cover and intske powder coat when doing the gasket for these later on so I'll deal with the knock sensors same time. Thanks.

Peter

Bmw635

Here's the new part for $2.20 ea as the original MB pn# is NLA. http://www.ecstuning.com/ES1621506/

Rob Edwards

That's a good find, thanks Peter!

MB 012 545 05 28

Looks like it's missing the locking tabs of the original, but if the bores for the pins are the same it should work ok (?)

Bmw635

Thanks to Rob helping ID bad MAF , car is running great. Been cleaning the linen color carpet, leatherique the leather, replaced cracked tail lights, cleaned the s/r track.

Here's all remaining issues with electrical so I am trying to isolate component problem before digging into the wirings -am I on the right tracks? TIA.

1- digital clock works only 2x, the fuse that the clock share with ....(don't remember) is fine: problem is failing LCD not electrical ?

2-horn not working , fuse shared with .....(don't remember) is fine: check/adjust contact on ring to horn pad?

3-backup light not working, fuse shared with .....(don't remember) is fine, bulbs and sockets are fine: checking ground/ connection under plastic cover by battery, reverse switch?

4- pwr mirror, door lock, dome light not working, fuse #24 is shorted so the diagnostic tool didn't work. I've searched so I'll just have to go through each of these later on as they're on different circuits/ problems.