How did I F up my fuel distributor?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How did I F up my fuel distributor?
So, I rebuilt my fuel distributor. It took me all day, as I was meticulous on removal, disassembly, and reassembly.
I followed the directions to a T. I took pictures all along the way. I referred back to my pictures during reassembly. I adjusted nothing, and changed nothing.
I replaced all the o-rings, and the diaphragm (steel). I made sure all the little springs went to where they came from, I made triple sure the WUR passage hole was in the right spot, and clear.
Put it all in, cranked her up, and she sputtered and died. Tried again, same,. Ran the FD adjuster in 1/2 clockwise, she fired right up, but started smoking like a demon.....this car has never put out more than a little puff....
Started getting water out of the exhaust...so I am thinking, condensate.....well, the smoke got worse, and more and more liquid came out the exhaust.....I shut her down, and examined the "water".... Sheet, it is gas, a ****load of it. Fuel was spraying out of the exhaust pipe.....how is this possible? It was running like crap before the rebuild, and stunk of fuel, but never smoke or puddle. The smoke had a fuel odor, not oil.
While it was running, I tried running the FD screw counter clockwise, and it started missing and thumping, like it was trying to die off....
I know I need CIS gauges, but I expected it to run the same or better, not this!
As a note, (3) of the orifices inside the FD were clogged, I had to use a fine wire to unclog them, and it was full of gum.
I went through all photos again, and the directions (from 928oc), again, and do not see anything out of kilter..
WTF did I do wrong?
I followed the directions to a T. I took pictures all along the way. I referred back to my pictures during reassembly. I adjusted nothing, and changed nothing.
I replaced all the o-rings, and the diaphragm (steel). I made sure all the little springs went to where they came from, I made triple sure the WUR passage hole was in the right spot, and clear.
Put it all in, cranked her up, and she sputtered and died. Tried again, same,. Ran the FD adjuster in 1/2 clockwise, she fired right up, but started smoking like a demon.....this car has never put out more than a little puff....
Started getting water out of the exhaust...so I am thinking, condensate.....well, the smoke got worse, and more and more liquid came out the exhaust.....I shut her down, and examined the "water".... Sheet, it is gas, a ****load of it. Fuel was spraying out of the exhaust pipe.....how is this possible? It was running like crap before the rebuild, and stunk of fuel, but never smoke or puddle. The smoke had a fuel odor, not oil.
While it was running, I tried running the FD screw counter clockwise, and it started missing and thumping, like it was trying to die off....
I know I need CIS gauges, but I expected it to run the same or better, not this!
As a note, (3) of the orifices inside the FD were clogged, I had to use a fine wire to unclog them, and it was full of gum.
I went through all photos again, and the directions (from 928oc), again, and do not see anything out of kilter..
WTF did I do wrong?
#2
Rennlist Member
You really need to back off of the FD adjuster, it could affect the fuel ratio multiples of 1 i.e 12:1 to 14:1 by just turning it a few mm.
Turn it 1/4 of the way back to see if it helps and get some pressure gauges, those are a must when working with this system.
Turn it 1/4 of the way back to see if it helps and get some pressure gauges, those are a must when working with this system.
#3
Rennlist Member
My guess is the injector(s) dumped fuel into the cylinder(s).
When you pressurized the system, prior to startup, could you hear the injectors? They make a very audible sound when they crack.
I usually set baseline AF about a quarter-turn from when the injectors crack. Pressurize system, turn screw until you hear audible injectors, then back off a 1/4.
Most likely this is a rich setting, but will get the car started, then tune in very small increments from there.
Oh yea, and make sure to dial back your idle screw. You made have had it turn up to compensate for other things. Start with 1 1/2 turns CCW from full CW lock.
PS. You need a test gauge else your spittin' in the wind.
When you pressurized the system, prior to startup, could you hear the injectors? They make a very audible sound when they crack.
I usually set baseline AF about a quarter-turn from when the injectors crack. Pressurize system, turn screw until you hear audible injectors, then back off a 1/4.
Most likely this is a rich setting, but will get the car started, then tune in very small increments from there.
Oh yea, and make sure to dial back your idle screw. You made have had it turn up to compensate for other things. Start with 1 1/2 turns CCW from full CW lock.
PS. You need a test gauge else your spittin' in the wind.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Jim,
Yes, I can hear it...quite loudly, as a matter of fact.....I pressurized to leak check prior to starting......there is no telling where the adjustment is at this point, as I had to really play with it to make run as I had it, not to mention what was done 19 years ago.
I am thinking I rebuilt it right, I aligned everything, marked, double and triple rechecked.....made sure the slits lined up as they were before, I don't think I missed anything, and I had no leftover parts....
What concerns me, is that the fuel never stopped coming out the tailpipe, I let it idle, as I played with it, for about 10 mins, and it never stopped spitting out fuel and smoke from the pipes.
Very frustrating.
I will get a gauge set soon,
Yes, I can hear it...quite loudly, as a matter of fact.....I pressurized to leak check prior to starting......there is no telling where the adjustment is at this point, as I had to really play with it to make run as I had it, not to mention what was done 19 years ago.
I am thinking I rebuilt it right, I aligned everything, marked, double and triple rechecked.....made sure the slits lined up as they were before, I don't think I missed anything, and I had no leftover parts....
What concerns me, is that the fuel never stopped coming out the tailpipe, I let it idle, as I played with it, for about 10 mins, and it never stopped spitting out fuel and smoke from the pipes.
Very frustrating.
I will get a gauge set soon,
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Check your air meter housing for fuel in the base of it (under flapper). The fuel distributor can leak out the cylinder into the air meter and can cause the condition you described.
Ask me how I know
Ask me how I know
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#8
Burning Brakes
Its probably not the fuel dis, it is more likely the WUR is clogged and you are compensating with the A/F mixture screw... get gauges then you know what is going on...
#9
Instructor
First, when you change the o-ring's at push up valves, you change all FD pressures and new CO adjustment is required.
Second, most likely it's you WUR. It has a 5 layer filter mesh, and even some microscopic dust can change significantly the control pressure. Mine was looking good, but after few hours in a ultrasonic bath, the product inside the tub went very very dark. After that I sank the upper part of the WUR in fuel injector cleaner bath for some days. Didn't test it yet, but the mesh is now shinning.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I believe my WUR screen is clear. Not ruling out the WUR, but after more tinkering last night, it emptied the tank into the motor and out the exhaust.
I now have to drain the motor, and put fresh oil.
I did more studying last night, and I believe, that I may have not aligned the center sleeve slits properly with the orifices in the center of the FD. I am thinking, based on study of the design, that very little fuel is going to the injectors, the rest is filling the intake, and filling up the block.
That's what I have summized anyway. Gonna try to tear into it tonight.
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I now have to drain the motor, and put fresh oil.
I did more studying last night, and I believe, that I may have not aligned the center sleeve slits properly with the orifices in the center of the FD. I am thinking, based on study of the design, that very little fuel is going to the injectors, the rest is filling the intake, and filling up the block.
That's what I have summized anyway. Gonna try to tear into it tonight.
Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bought my oil and zddp tonight, don't think I will be able to get into the workshop, but will be draining, and refilling soon. I guess this is one way to clean carbon from the motor, huh?
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, I am at a loss here....
I tore it back down, and found that (3) of the orings over the metering slits got pinched and cut...I replaced them, and reassembled, this time aligning the metering slits up with the injector holes properly. I also installed the metering sleeve in the top end first, so I could ensure the orings slid down in properly. No problems. Everything looked good. Installed it, and cranked the adjustment 100% counter clockwise to stop all fuel flow! per recommendations! and pressurized. instantly heard fuel feeding through injectors.
Within a matter of a few minutes, the motor filled with fuel, once again running out the tail pipe. WTF is wrong!?
As I tossed and turned last night, I am wondering if perhaps the tab that holds the metering piston could be bent in too much, not allowing it to drop down 100%? Could it be that simple? Seems like it is feeding fuel nonstop....
Help! Waving the white flag here....
I tore it back down, and found that (3) of the orings over the metering slits got pinched and cut...I replaced them, and reassembled, this time aligning the metering slits up with the injector holes properly. I also installed the metering sleeve in the top end first, so I could ensure the orings slid down in properly. No problems. Everything looked good. Installed it, and cranked the adjustment 100% counter clockwise to stop all fuel flow! per recommendations! and pressurized. instantly heard fuel feeding through injectors.
Within a matter of a few minutes, the motor filled with fuel, once again running out the tail pipe. WTF is wrong!?
As I tossed and turned last night, I am wondering if perhaps the tab that holds the metering piston could be bent in too much, not allowing it to drop down 100%? Could it be that simple? Seems like it is feeding fuel nonstop....
Help! Waving the white flag here....
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Ron,
I don't think its the tab. It seems its function is to hold the piston from falling on removal. The piston is sitting on the air meter arm. That tab would have to be bent all the way around to actually limit movement. You would have lots of freeplay on the air meter arm.
Just my thoughts
I don't think its the tab. It seems its function is to hold the piston from falling on removal. The piston is sitting on the air meter arm. That tab would have to be bent all the way around to actually limit movement. You would have lots of freeplay on the air meter arm.
Just my thoughts
#15
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
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You're only guessing until you get a CIS gauge set... If you have no control pressure, you'll put out too much fuel. No fuel should flow at all when pressurized with engine off until you deflect the airflow plate. If it is, the linkage between the plate and the rod may not be set up correctly. Just a few ideas...