Avar928

Just seeing if anyone has a genuine Porken Blink'r I can borrow. Need to make some adjustments on my early '86 after having installed the S3000 chips.

Having some weird surging issues on initial start up, cold and hot. Smooths out after 10 seconds or so, a little longer on hot starts. Hoping some dialing in will fix it before I start replacing stuff (hoping it's not the LH and or EZH since I didn't have this issue with the stock chips)

+ EDIT

Now I have a new problem, she'll crank but won't start Ran fine 2 days ago.

++ EDIT

FIXED - Replaced the used '87 FPR with a brand new one. Surging issues on start up are gone. Idle hunting pretty much gone. Still needs to be dialed in but all is good now.

Mrmerlin

usually when swapping in the chipset its a good idea to make sure everything else is in top condition including the
ISV a wear item,
O2 sensor,
MAF,
TPS short cable,
87 FPR,
Temp 2 sensor,
plenum collars,
6 way vacuum splitter.
Ignition wire set,
fresh spark plugs.

NOTE the computers are pretty trouble free,
HOWEVER it has happened that the test switch when activated to turn off the ISV circuit will not activate when the wires are jumpered ,
if this condition is present then the compthers should be replaced or repaired.

Avar928

Aside from installing a used '87 FPR, everything else I've done. Just changed out the ISV and TPS short harness a couple of days ago and all it did was lower the duration of the surging on start. I emailed Ken and he suggested the jumpering, adjusting idle and checking MAF settings. Thought I'd throw in the Blinkr to help with all that.

On the first surge she'll drop low enough where the lights will dim but catch. Settles a little higher at 750-800 rpm about when it stops.

Mrmerlin

a good MAF and O2 sensor and temp 2 sensor, ISV are critical, then its adjusting the mixture and then the idle

Avar928

CO2 mixture off the MAF right? Looking for 380ohms at pins 4/6 off the LH? Is this with the engine on or car on/engine off?

Avar928

Forget adjustments, now she won't start! ARGH!

FPR, relay, fuel pump or filter?

PorKen

Has the Crank Position Sensor been replaced?



Could be bad solder joints in the EZF at the EPROM holder.

Avar928

Yea, CPS is new.

Should I pull the computers?

PorKen

(Only the EZ has problems with soldering.)

Check the smaller stuff first. Relays, etc.


Does the tach needle move when cranking?

How many volts do you see when cranking? (<10 and the computers may not turn on.)


Check there is no fuel at the vacuum line from the FPR (or dampers).
Try holding the pedal to the floor and try to start.

Avar928

About 11 on the volt gauge.

I'll have to recheck when I get back. Am I checking the fuel pump relay? Jumper it?

Avar928

Ken,

Tach jumps when cranking.

+ EDIT:

Very weird. Tried again, pedal to the floor. No start. Ungrounded the battery. I checked the fuel pump fuse (42) and it was fine. I then took off the airbox, disconnecting only the Temp I sensor. Checked the MAF connector, all good. Checked the vac line to the FPR. Smelled a trace of fuel in the elbow. Regrounded the battery. Turned the key to see if I can get more of a fuel smell from the line and NOW she starts. Again, idle was rough but she started. Consistently...three times.

I did back her out of the garage (manually, in neutral) and she's sitting on a 30 degree incline. About a little under 1/4 of a tank. I haven't started her for 2 days since today so I doubt it's flooding. Idle surging is still there. A bit more rough now but she'll smooth out if I let her sit long enough.

Mrmerlin

I am gonna guess that you flooded the engine, this is an easy thing to do with the chip upgrade.

Solution, replace the plugs and run the engine till it reaches full temperature,

NOTE starting the engine to move the car out of the garage then shutting it off greatly increases the possibility of flooding.

This will usually then take cranking till it starts while holding the pedal to the floor.

NOTE any fuel smells in the vacuum lines then replace the dampeners.

Avar928

Would this be a common issue I'll just have to deal with? Plugs are NGKBP7ES, gaped to 1mm. A little over 1k on them. I'll pull and replace.

Seems strange since the last time I ran her was 2 days ago and it was long enough where she was at full operating temperature before shutting it down. When I backed her out of the garage today (neutral, brake off and pushed her out) it was after I tried multiple times to crank. Looking back, it probably was flooded. I would think engine flooding was typically only restricted to quick on/off/on starts within hours or less of each other, not longer than that.

I read on some older-Camaro forums about owners having issues of engine flooding despite it sitting for days. Attributed to the failing diaphragm on the FPR. I'm somehow transfixed on it being an FPR issue for some reason. Fuel traces on the vac line (none on the rear diaphragm) means its shot. I left Roger a voice mail and will have him ship me a new '87 on Monday.

Mrmerlin

use the Bosch silver tip plugs only not NGK.
use Bosch
PN 7900 at autozone

Hilton

The NGK non-resistor plugs, and 1mm gap, are specified by Porken for use with his chips.