Hatch Lock
#1
Racer
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Hatch Lock
I have determined that my non stop door chime is the result of the rear hatch not fully closing and locking. It stays closed but I can pry the hatch open with my fingers.All components appear to be there but I am thinking that the white spring loaded piece may be worn causing the problem. Does anyone have a picture of their lock they can post so I can make that determination?
#3
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I had the same thing when I first bought my 84S Euro.
After weeks of taking out the hatch lock mechanism and the tongue piece attached to the boot and stuffing around with everything else I could think of, I couldn't solve the problem. Until..............i replaced the nylon insert in the hatch lock. Shut the lid and no door chime or light intermittantly coming on, and the lid actually locked in place properly.
Hopes its that easy for you.
After weeks of taking out the hatch lock mechanism and the tongue piece attached to the boot and stuffing around with everything else I could think of, I couldn't solve the problem. Until..............i replaced the nylon insert in the hatch lock. Shut the lid and no door chime or light intermittantly coming on, and the lid actually locked in place properly.
Hopes its that easy for you.
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#5
Racer
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#6
Racer
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I tried putting in a shim towards the back of the receiving part and closed the hatch...now I can't get the damn thing open...will have to deal with it from the inside now but when i have some daylight this weekend.
#7
Drifting
The metal tongue piece connected to the hatch cracks and allows a lot of movement so that the lock does not work as intended. From your pictures I can see stress fractures all the way through. I think you need a new one.
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#8
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This is what my replacement Liner/Insert looks like. They are made right here in the US. They are $35 each and I'll include the shipping to you in LV. Let me know if I can put one in the mail for you.
#9
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Thanks Jerry...do you do Paypal or do prefer a money order?...you can PM me the info if you like
#10
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I Pm'd the info, but if you send me the address now I'll take this with me and mail it later this morning when I go to town.
#11
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What have you determined about what looks like a fracture in the male latch member in the out-of-focus pictures? Those parts are getting rare as hens teeth. There was one on eBay very recently, but I missed bidding on it when it closed out. I think it sold for only about $20 or a little over. Darn.
#13
Under the Lift
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Sure looks like a fracture, although I've only seen them crack near the base where the stress is greatest. The alarm version is rarely found uncracked used and is expensive new. I waited over a year for 928 International to come across a used one that was not cracked.
Also, the white plastic tongue does wear and can be replaced. In my case, the pivot hole ovaled. This made the tongue not engage very well and required jacking up the hatch's rubber bumpers to snug up the latch and stop it from rattling. It was jacked up the the extent that the hatch was elevated and the rear wiper drive no longer engaged. Replacing the tongue allowed me to reduce the height of the bumpers, bringing that hatch back down to level with the rear quarter panel edge while eliminating the rattle. You have to drill out the swaged end of the pivot pin. The "kit" to replace the tongue includes a new pin and spring. Whether you should replace it or not is not clear. If the upper latch piece is fractured, that should be replaced at some point. It's not completely clear whether that will help solve your problem. There are a number of defects that occur with these latches, and sometimes it helps to adjust the receiver motor position, shim the receiver height OR remove shims under the receiver to lower it or replace that missing liner or.....
Also, the white plastic tongue does wear and can be replaced. In my case, the pivot hole ovaled. This made the tongue not engage very well and required jacking up the hatch's rubber bumpers to snug up the latch and stop it from rattling. It was jacked up the the extent that the hatch was elevated and the rear wiper drive no longer engaged. Replacing the tongue allowed me to reduce the height of the bumpers, bringing that hatch back down to level with the rear quarter panel edge while eliminating the rattle. You have to drill out the swaged end of the pivot pin. The "kit" to replace the tongue includes a new pin and spring. Whether you should replace it or not is not clear. If the upper latch piece is fractured, that should be replaced at some point. It's not completely clear whether that will help solve your problem. There are a number of defects that occur with these latches, and sometimes it helps to adjust the receiver motor position, shim the receiver height OR remove shims under the receiver to lower it or replace that missing liner or.....
#15
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Randy, you are correct, but only in a sense. When these are formed out of 3/32 inch thick ABS they stretch out as thin as what you are seeing around the corners, and then they are thicker from that bottom edge up to the top rim. However, after they are formed they have to have the locking tabs glued onto them on both sides and the back. The tabs are made out of the same material and then dressed out, then they are glued onto the outsides of the basic liner body and they increase the thickness to just exactly what will fit between the male and female components of the latch assembly, except perhaps around the corners, where the thickness is not particularly critical. This ABS plastic is very tough except perhaps in the bending mode; but since these don't have any need to bend they are extremely tough and useful.