Maintenance List
 

Hi everyone, just wanted to get some opinion or thoughts on a list of maintenance repairs required for a shark. It was picked up pretty much as a project and here is the list compiled from inspection:

-All 4 CV boots should be changed
-Transmission output flange seals leaking
-Transmission Pan leaking
-Transmission cooler lines at radiator leaking
- Motor mounts collapsed should be replaced
-Camshaft housings leaking
-Lower ball joint boots torn
-Upper ball joints must be replaced
-All accessory belts must be replaced
-Steering rack leaks fluid
-Steering rack bushings should be replaced

I am told this is mainly a maintenance issue since the car seems to run pretty normal but would like some opinions on which if not all of the things listed are needed attention to like right away. (inspector mechanic guy said the things needed replacement are mainly cause they look worn a bit)
Also, it would be great help if anyone can tell me which of the problems are the most important to take care of first (and perhaps approximation of cost for parts) and maybe a detail of what some of the problems may cause or what these things can/can't do if left for a while. Runs pretty good right now and It's an old 84 S model. Thanks in advance.

Gettin' your money's worth on the project car, I'd say.

None of that is a real problem in themselves. But it can lead to problems if you don't take care of it. Putting on boots beats replacing CV joints by a hundred bucks a joint, for example.

Don't know automatic transmission work, but the rest is doable on your own. A few notes:

Replace the steering rack with a re-built one and the leaking and bushings will be done.

You can't replace the upper ball joints as they're pressed in. OK somebody has done it, but it is not commonly done. Check them for slop, and if good just re-grease and put on new boots.

You don't say where the camshaft housing is leaking. I'll bet it's that rear seal. Not a problem and not expensive.

The motor mounts could be the worst. Search the forum and email archives or www.nichols.nu for more on that.

I'd get everything for the front and do a multi-week project (with time off for good/bad behavior). Take off the whole front suspension and steering rack, do the mounts, then replace the rack and then the ball joints.

Plenty of while-you-are-in-there opportunities: shocks, springs, brake rotors and pads, tie rods, brake lines.

Then do the rear stuff at some later time with the same general approach.

For fun go to the local P-car dealer and get an estimate. (That'll motivate you.)

Got mine as a project, too. It has worked out far beyond my expectations. And I've enjoyed it!

Timing belt and associated mechanics, unless you know, WITH PROOF, that it has been done within the last 15,000 miles.

Glen has it pretty well nailed, but the cliche/achilles with this car is the Tbelt. I don't see any mention of it in your post Unless you are POSITIVE as to it's age, you should at least visually inspect it and check tension.

If I was doing the mounts, I would replace oil pan gasket and I would install the oil baffle (because it is a WYIT item) if there was a remote possiblilty I was going to track it.

Thanks for the help everyone. Some more questions I have though. For instance, the leak from the steering rack, If I could determine where it is etc and is a repairable job, would that be a lot better than having the steering rack replaced? If it was a crack for instance, I'm sure it could be sealed or welded etc. I am sure it would be cheaper of course. Some reason, when I talk to mechanics and what not, nobody seems to want to repair things, just replace them and parts aren't always the cheapest. Oh, and what effects do the bushings have?
If anyone can, would it be possible to list the problems I have in order of most important to least important so I will know where my first priorities on it would be. (Also would be great if you can tell me what these problems may cause or what can or might happen)
Thanks again, help is always appreciated!

#1 on the list should be...
JOIN RENNLIST!!

https://rennlist.com/forums/register...&action=signup

928noob:

First make sure it's actually your rack that's leaking. It might just be a hose.

If the last four digits of your '84's VIN are 0001-0404, you may have the aluminum ball joints and it is recommended to upgrade to the later style steel ball joints with new alignment eccentrics, especially if they are coming off anyway to replace the boots.

Susan Thomas
DEVEK
DEVEK Home Page

Well... I'd start with the tbelt/water pump. Make sure that's right or nothing else you fix will matter.

Then I'd move on to the leaks. Do the tranny fluid and filter and try some of the Valvoline Max-life oil. It all but stopped my torque converter seals from leaking. The pan leaking is probably just a tired/poorly installed gasket. Tranny service kit for about $35 from the big three. You'll be pleased to find lots of ideas on filling a trans on this board. It's quite the PITA.

A wrench applied to all leaking joints, pans, etc may work wonders. Dino oil will recondition tired seals somewhat after running synth.

Ball joints, tie-rods, steering rack, axle boots... sorry, but they're all tired. All are doable in your garage with the right tools, attitude, and beverage of choice. You can rebuild the steering rack or get a quality rebuild from several vendors. I recommend the later. Ball joints aren't too bad. I believe you have to replace the upper A-arm to do the upper joint, but I'm not sure.
Lowers are no troubles. While you're there, put fresh rotors and pads in. Caliper rebuild kits are cheap and easy. Fresh shocks are probably a good idea as well. Depends on your wallet and mechanical fortitude. Axle boots are only hard because of the mondo nut on the end of each axle. The axle has to come off completely and it's on there with el mucho torquo. And has to go back on with as much grunt. The boots themselves are no-brainers.

Now, as for 84's being OLD... I absolutely resemble that remark. They may be 20 years old, but when I'm driving mine, I feel as close to 20 as I'm ever gonna.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Hmm this doesn't sound that bad. I guess most of the maintenance issues are just that, maintenance? What I mean is I don't know what problems these things can cause if not looked after but I am assuming things will be okay for at least a month or two or more (at least until the cold weather starts)? I was going to slowly work on things over the next while but wouldn't want something major to happen because I didn't take care of everything all at once etc. (takes time also)

If you are gonna just run it and do the maint things as you get the time, then do yourself a huge favor and check the timing belt tension, now. If you loose that belt your repair bill could easily exceed the value of your car..................

928noob, what year is the car?

If it's after 84 and US, or after 79 and Euro, don't do anything untill your certain the timeing belt is OK. The older cars have borken t-belts w/o problems, but the newer ones require a head job for sure, and maybe new pistions. That is easily $7,000.

Other than that, keep an eye on the fluid levels. I have/had a similer list. I'm going throw most of them, fixing 'em up, one at a time. It takes alought of paicence and time. Plus skinned up nuckles. But it's a lovely hobie!

Goodluck.

928noob,

Replacing Aluminum ball joints are not a "maintenance item". They fail catastrophically, and with no warning. When they fail, you will lose a front wheel. See Susan's post above. If there is any question, it is simple to check them with a magnet.

928noob,
I would add engine coolant change to your list (don't forget the two drain plugs each side of the block, or you will be only changing half the coolant). Lack of coolant change can cause head corrosion problems.

Welcome to the world of the 928 !

I would suggest replacing any split or damaged rubber boot ASAP.
Ball Joints (especially uppers - the ball joints are not replacable, and you don't want dirt in there wearing them out!)
CV Joints
Steering Rack
Tie Rod Ends