'84 Euro - No spark
09-23-2013, 01:43 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Am showing that E8 is indeed connected to hazard lights per Doc.
Only one black wire, at position E8
E is a black plug, btw.
(behind the panel I guess E8 must split into two wires)
But in the dash, where E8 goes, it is a major mega feed for power for the lights in the switches and dash, also connecting to the potentiometer, and there is a in-harness junction where 6 other wires radiate from that E8.
Obviously the melted E8 is linked with the dash lighting change you made.
Behind the panel, the wire connected to E8 on the front is amazingly black and goes both directions from the E8 connection. I believe that there were 8 different connections involved in the back of the panel with that black wire. Basically half of those connections needed new wire since I let all the "smoke" out of 4 legs of the black wire. I am sure but will check again that I reconnected the black wire to all the appropriate previous connections.
I think your no spark situation might involve separately a plug issue on the CE panel from your cleaning / refresh activity.
Hopefully it is that easy, and not some cross short.
Me too
I can pull the CE panel from the Euro 84 here to compare with you if that helps in any way. Let me know.
Should we confirm the colored plugs are reinstalled in the correct order on the bottom row of the CE?
I'm going to reverify that "X" plug today
Also, I've got the 84 Euro relay chart handy.
VIII is the electronic ignition brain (EZK?). (normal 53)
XVI is LH Jetronic (normal 53)
XVII is fuel pump. (special)
Fuse 13 is the 16A fuse for the pump.
I'd consider bridging the alarm too. Z4 to Z6, 1984 cars only.
I'll try this after I verify all the other things above
If that didn't provide the quick fix, then back to the site of smoldering wires behind and radiating from the CE panel for some CSI investigative work.
Keep the faith!
Only one black wire, at position E8
E is a black plug, btw.
(behind the panel I guess E8 must split into two wires)
But in the dash, where E8 goes, it is a major mega feed for power for the lights in the switches and dash, also connecting to the potentiometer, and there is a in-harness junction where 6 other wires radiate from that E8.
Obviously the melted E8 is linked with the dash lighting change you made.
Behind the panel, the wire connected to E8 on the front is amazingly black and goes both directions from the E8 connection. I believe that there were 8 different connections involved in the back of the panel with that black wire. Basically half of those connections needed new wire since I let all the "smoke" out of 4 legs of the black wire. I am sure but will check again that I reconnected the black wire to all the appropriate previous connections.
I think your no spark situation might involve separately a plug issue on the CE panel from your cleaning / refresh activity.
Hopefully it is that easy, and not some cross short.
Me too
I can pull the CE panel from the Euro 84 here to compare with you if that helps in any way. Let me know.
Should we confirm the colored plugs are reinstalled in the correct order on the bottom row of the CE?
I'm going to reverify that "X" plug today
Also, I've got the 84 Euro relay chart handy.
VIII is the electronic ignition brain (EZK?). (normal 53)
XVI is LH Jetronic (normal 53)
XVII is fuel pump. (special)
Fuse 13 is the 16A fuse for the pump.
I'd consider bridging the alarm too. Z4 to Z6, 1984 cars only.
I'll try this after I verify all the other things above
If that didn't provide the quick fix, then back to the site of smoldering wires behind and radiating from the CE panel for some CSI investigative work.
Keep the faith!
12-26-2013, 11:08 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just keeping score here: Smoked wires/no spark condition - 14.................Me - 0
I removed and replaced all the lower plugs and verified their positions on the CE panel.
I replaced the appropriate relays. I believe that the fuel pump relay is just a normal 53, but it's no matter since I jumpered that relay to remove that as a potential issue.
I have removed both the instrument cluster and the pod in it's entireity.
The only thing I haven't done is jumper the alarm. That's on the agenda for tomorrow if the weather is work on the car weather (which I believe it will be)
This car has been very reliable since I've had it and I usually haven't driven it only as a matter of choice. I really do miss driving it, but this issue is whipping me.
I removed and replaced all the lower plugs and verified their positions on the CE panel.
I replaced the appropriate relays. I believe that the fuel pump relay is just a normal 53, but it's no matter since I jumpered that relay to remove that as a potential issue.
I have removed both the instrument cluster and the pod in it's entireity.
The only thing I haven't done is jumper the alarm. That's on the agenda for tomorrow if the weather is work on the car weather (which I believe it will be)
This car has been very reliable since I've had it and I usually haven't driven it only as a matter of choice. I really do miss driving it, but this issue is whipping me.
12-27-2013, 12:36 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It's kinda like why would you spend all that time and energy designing a system to introduce cold air into the passenger cabin and then as part of that system, mix it with superheated air coming straight from Texas or even Arizona asphalt highways in the summertime.
02-17-2014, 01:00 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Solution!!
First, thank you to all who offered advice on this forum. As I posted previously, I did a lot of things electrical to the car. Not being an electrical genius, some of these things were done in response to different symptoms, and not all at the same time. Letting the smoke escape from wires in the Central Fuse panel is not a good thing, and honestly it freaked me out a little bit.
Fellow DFW'er Simon came by on Saturday and helped the process greatly by providing a methodology for testing that has always eluded my brain.
Long story short: after the smoked wires were all fixed and systems tested, the car still had no spark. Previously, I had at one point sought to remove the CPS as a possible source of the non-spark and had replaced the original CPS. The car still had no spark, so I swapped the original CPS back into the car.
Dumb-*** Alert: I apparently forgot to plug the CPS back into the harness. So after Simon tested and determined all systems okay, I mentioned that I had replaced the CPS and he suggested we test it. There was no need. It was unplugged. After plugging into the harness, the Stepson fired right up.
Thank you so very much to Simon! I owe you buddy.
First, thank you to all who offered advice on this forum. As I posted previously, I did a lot of things electrical to the car. Not being an electrical genius, some of these things were done in response to different symptoms, and not all at the same time. Letting the smoke escape from wires in the Central Fuse panel is not a good thing, and honestly it freaked me out a little bit.
Fellow DFW'er Simon came by on Saturday and helped the process greatly by providing a methodology for testing that has always eluded my brain.
Long story short: after the smoked wires were all fixed and systems tested, the car still had no spark. Previously, I had at one point sought to remove the CPS as a possible source of the non-spark and had replaced the original CPS. The car still had no spark, so I swapped the original CPS back into the car.
Dumb-*** Alert: I apparently forgot to plug the CPS back into the harness. So after Simon tested and determined all systems okay, I mentioned that I had replaced the CPS and he suggested we test it. There was no need. It was unplugged. After plugging into the harness, the Stepson fired right up.
Thank you so very much to Simon! I owe you buddy.
02-17-2014, 07:36 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
Whoa... we have all been there. Reminds me of tracking down wiring problem to a new tail light harness. It turns out I forgot to put the bulbs in...
As a side note to others who might read this. You can test polarity on the LED bulbs with a 9 volt battery and alligator clips per bulb socket prior to installing them in the instrument cluster.
As a side note to others who might read this. You can test polarity on the LED bulbs with a 9 volt battery and alligator clips per bulb socket prior to installing them in the instrument cluster.
02-18-2014, 12:29 AM
#39
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oh but Doc, you did help. You correctly diagnosed the emergency flasher switch grounding against the inside of the instument pod as the likely culprit of the original short.
02-18-2014, 02:13 PM
#40
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You owe me a few beers. But wait - I drank those on my last visit. Meh - you owe me a trip to the ballpark. But wait - I got that last season. You owe me - a trip skiing. No, that's not right either. Guess we're kinda square at this point. I'll need to come over and muck something else up.
Cya Mar 9th in Denton.
Cya Mar 9th in Denton.
