The Fixer

Hey Guys, after removing the glove box, ra.dio and door switches of course the factory alarm is preventing start up. after every stint of wire removal i tested that the car would start so it was after last nights dash removal and the above switch removal. I disconnected the actual switches (which activate courtesy lighting and bagged them, taping the wire connections.

I anticipated this and would like to confirm the alarm disable procedure for my US MY '83 S.

I would like to bypass the alarm until i am finished painting and restoring the dash etc..

I think it is pins 1 and 3 i need to jump to bypass factory alarm. There is no other after market alarm system.


Any help is appreciated.

The Fixer

Was a crank and no start now nothing.
Just tried jumping pins 87a - 15 and nothing. No cranking anymore. no fuel pump energizing, nothing etc..

AirtekHVAC

You get her going Matt?

The Fixer

Yes Ron, Thanks for asking Buddy. How's your OB?

Dave helped me out. Had me jump Z4-Z6 of Z plug. Fired on first turn.

Thanks again Dave (j.mckenzie)

Also thanks for the great paint stripping idea Martin, removing undercoating that way (blasting guy gave up on it)

Everything is to bare metal, soda didn't do it, needed to use glass bead.

77tony

Matt, WYIT lose the locks and fill in the holes. T

AirtekHVAC

Mine is still sitting.....been working a lot....dog tired when I get home. Hoping to play some this weekend, but gotta do belts and tranny service on my daughters murano....that will eat my weekend up....

FBIII

Matt, you are absolutely tireless! It's taken me a month to do an S4 suspension and brake upgrade to the Euro S and I'm still not finished.

The Fixer

good idea but i only have aluminum brazing capability, no TIG. Holes are big and would need to be done right. Great touch though and i'll let it be Just Just Peachy's Tony.
Wife keeps me on a strict spending leash unfortunately so buying a TIG welder right now is not happening.
BTW there was so much sand in Plugs yesterday that i thought about asking you if I could name it Just Beachy II

I know it's tough. When i have to work on any other car it takes serious mental strength.

Thanks but I'm pretty tired. Going out now to weld up the rub strip holes in rear quarter.

The Fixer

John, Thanks so much for the extremely generous offer, you are basically giving me this equipment at that price and I appreciate it greatly.

I PMed you regarding how to pay.
Matt

The Fixer

another 5 hours; stripping undercoating from doors and fenders and de-greasing doors, weld side molding holes. Off to the real job, joy..

Note the factory brazing at roof to rear quarter.

Found minor bodywork (crease) in driver rear quarter during blasting, that will need attention.

The Fixer

Wanted to show old damage i found.

The Fixer

Early morning (before hot sun prematurely dries de-greaser) cleaning activity.
Then more cleaning with solvent.
Going out now to fill all aluminum fender and door holes associate with attachment of side rub strip moldings.

Then more removal of interior tabs etc., for painting the uni-body. Want to look at lightening the aluminum bumpers by 10%.

John Speake will be shipping my 84-86 Euro intake to me this week

I'd like to get a coat of epoxy primer on all bare metal asap..

Have a great weekend everyone.

77tony

Would advise final rinse of a baking soda & water solution to make sure you have all of the residual stripper/chemicals off before paint.02 T

The Fixer

Will do Tony, i use a acid etch solution. done doors and fender hole fill. Used 20 Ga aluminum sheet.

The Fixer

Ready to smooth/fill the rear bumper cover and fill in the sheet metal where the stock rear muffler exits.

I really want the side pipes, but my concern is the fuel lines running up the right side of the car. I could bring them up into the cabin maybe..or shield them well enough? Thoughts r appreciated.

In other words, the right hand side exhaust would have to pass under the fuel lines.

Ideas on shielding the lines from the exhaust heat? Don't want heated fuel. Or would it not be too bad? It would pass under the fuel line almost perpendicular to the direction of the lines. So it's just heat in that limited area, would a aluminum shield do the trick?

I may simply not do it if it will add too much time or only exit in front of the rear wheel on the drivers side where there are no fuel lines. I'd still have to do the sheet metal work where the current muffler cut out is.
Would be nice to have the rear end all smoothed out though.

Anyone have an opinion? -Matt