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It's been a minute since I posted on this thread. Made a bit of progress. Freshly rebuilt throttle body, new position switch and ICS with a hint of GB fuel lines in the background. Some it is temporary. I'll need to pull the throttle body and some other bits off while I rebuild some connectors. Hopefully that will happen this weekend.
Ethan,
Nice work.
Those Temp I Sensor spades are crying for some filing and Deoxit 100. There brothers and cousins probably want Deoxit too. Would be a good time to quench their thirst.
I'm finally getting back to working on my car again. I got the front engine harness out last night. I'm really glad I decided to replace it. It was in worse shape than I had thought. The used one I got from 928 Intl. is in much better shape.
Is this an acceptable route for the lower engine harness back to the starter? I'm trying to keep it away from the exhaust and the steering joint. Also, the original had a hose covering it. I probably will not be able to put that back on. Any suggestions on what I should cover it with. Thanks in advance.
Disregard the question. I was able to find a picture that Dwayne posted that showed it routed the same way. I was also able to pull the protective hose over it using some speaker wire with a slipknot on the end and some silicone spray.
The crank is locked at 4|5 and I've set both cam gears notches at three teeth before the notch on the back plate. Is this close enough that I can remove the crank lock, turn it over by hand, and then degree in the cams?
Hopefully I routed this correctly.
Passenger side (US).
Driver's side (US).
Last edited by snoz; 12-10-2020 at 11:29 AM.
Reason: Moving question to seperate post.
I've got the cam timing about as close as I'm going to get it for tonight. It's at -2 on the 1-4 side and 0 on 5-8. I'm going to try and just keep knocking things out a bit every chance I get. Hopefully I'll be ready to hear it run in the next month or so.
Here's a bit more progress. I'll be pressurizing the fuel system this week to check for leaks and measure static pressure. I'm getting close to being able to try to start it. I can't wait to hear it run.
I trued up the mounting surface of the runners the same way @Otto Mechanic did in his intake thread.
Here's where I left off for the evening. I'm getting closer anyway.
Last edited by snoz; 07-07-2021 at 02:29 AM.
Reason: Grammar
I was hoping to roll my car out of the garage and see if it would start this weekend but I have hit a snag. Hopefully it's not a big one. I made one of the pressure test adaptors that you hook to the MAF and pressured it up to a bit less than 3 psi. It leaked down quickly. I found a major leak in the vacuum line / check valve area. I have the parts needed to fix that on the way. I decided to block off vacuum at the venturi so I could test some more while waiting on parts. It leaks more slowly but still leaks down in less than 30 seconds. I can hear the leak It's on the drivers (left) side of the engine. It sounds to be coming somewhere in-between the engine and the body. I can't feel it or change the sound by running my hand along that side of the motor. I'm hoping it's the cam cover or oil pan seal and not a head gasket. I didn't feel like making my own smoke tester so I ordered one.
If it ends up being oil pan or cam cover related, I may proceed and see if it will start. Hopefully it's one of those two. Let me know if any of you have any ideas on what else I could check.
. Let me know if any of you have any ideas on what else I could check.
A fun, easy thing to check for free are exhaust leaks, which you do by duct-taping your shop vac to your exhaust pipes and turning on. Then you just walk around listening for leaks. It's all cold air so you can stick your hands all around with no worries.
A fun, easy thing to check for free are exhaust leaks, which you do by duct-taping your shop vac to your exhaust pipes and turning on. Then you just walk around listening for leaks. It's all cold air so you can stick your hands all around with no worries.
06-18-2014, 10:32 PM
