newworld

I am now hearing clicking in engine bay when cranking...I did not before. Engine did shake like going to start but did not.

Seems like getting closer but still no start

Mrmerlin

dont run the car for more than 2 mins until you have the ATF leak fixed,
along with getting the computer and MAF rebuilt ,
so you can do all of these things at one time .

newworld

No ATF leak. On drop or so on rack....I have a spare good lh...maf says injection labs sticker on it.

I now hear clicking in engine bay...engine does move before I got nothing....

Still cranks but doesn't catch.

Mrmerlin

swap the computer it should run,
the MAF may have a warranty otherwise it has been rebuilt,
call the vendor ( Injection Labs in Colorado) with the SN on the sticker and he can tell you when it was rebuilt

Wisconsin Joe

FWIW, you can use WD-40 as a mild starting fluid. It's combustible, and not as dangerous as ether.

newworld

I did not have starter fluid but I did have carbonated/ intake cleaner....I sprayed some in intake and really sounded like trying the start....different from past attempts.....but had to call it a day after 4 tries....no start yet

Bill Ball

Another handy tool:

newworld

grounds at back of "v" for fuel injectors.

my fuel injectors are not providing fuel.

everyone says check the "v" ground at back of engine. i have 2 eyelets at the rear , and they are grounded together i.e. on the same bolt, on the drivers side of the throttle cable pulley.

question: is there another ground there? am i supposed to separate the 2 grounds?

dr bob

Tell us what you did for "engine refresh" please. If it really is a full engine refresh then there are more variables than a couple connectors swapped or a missing/faulty ground.

newworld

--intake refresh
--fuel lines refresh
--removed engine for full refresh

Bill Ball

Intake refresh risks creating a short in the injector harness simply from manipulating the injector plugs and harness. In this case, the injectors would not "click" on starting attempts and a noid light, like the one I linked above would not flash. The most common area for shorts is inside the plug boot. Only way to find it is to destructively remove the boot (at least original boots will not survive this inspection).

Engine removal risks not getting all the harness plugs reconnected on or around the CE panel and ECUs. Did you pull the harness through the firewall when you pulled the motor or did you disconnect at the engine? Either way, there are lot of connections to double check. There's one two prong plug (one green and one white wire) near the CE panel that is easy to overlook. If not reconnected the car will not start. BUT that is ignition final stage and I think you indicate you have spark, so that's probably not it.

With some substance that is volatile like starter fluid, you can nail down whether fuel supply is the issue, as Stan said. I've often used this shadetree mechanic method with a FEW SHORT puffs of starting fluid (ether) down the MAF before attempting to start. If fuel supply is the deficiency, that car will start and run for a few seconds. Others have suggested testing the fuel supply rate back at the return line above the fuel tank. All good ideas.

newworld

- was able to find a short in the fuel injector harness, i actually used tape to wind around some of the wires and when unpeeling them i found one exposed crack in insulation, and i fixed it. before i was not reading resistance at 2.5 ohms, now i have the right resistance, and also before i did not hear clicking in engine bay on starting and now i do.

- i pulled the plugs, and the tips are dry, to me, does not smell like fuel, so i think it classifies as dry.

-when pulled the engine i removed all the connectors in engine bay rather than fish everything thru. however, i found one black junior timer near the LH EZK side that is unconnected. i cannot find where this thing connects to, as i might have removed it when i was contemplating whether to pull the harness out through the firewall. right now, i have the LH, EZK, o2 sensor plug, and another connection which looks similar to the flappy plug, a small plug. and this one plug junior timer not connected

-i have swapped out a supposed "good" lh to no affect

i have read many posts here and seems like solutions are all over the place.

--some people find that LH relay was bad and pinched it
--some people find LH bad
--some people found EZK bad
--other have solutions like bad cps etc

i have:

--fuel injector clicking on starting
--fuel delivery when i jumper the fuel relay, not when i use the relay itself
--i have all dash lights, tach bounce, 5 bar oil pressure
--my battery meter reads at bottom on cranking, but my battery is 12.5v
--when using carb fluid in intake gets a much better response and rumbles
my guess is with starter fluid it will start and run until fluid goes out

newworld

what is this plug black one in relay box? 1987s4

http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/nw...36492.jpg.html

newworld

when i disconnected things near relay box, i might have disconnected it? but cant find where it plugs into, wondering if related to my no start? looks like a black junior timer and comes from the main harness.....on the bottom right of pic. 87s4.

newworld

Got it started. I don't know what I fiddled with but did not jumper fuel relay...removed maf and plug shot carb cleaner into butterfly and started. Idled around 500 600 rpm. Press throttle and stalls out. Didn't have much more time to troubleshoot. It seemed like it was running on fuel and not just carb cleaner as I heard a buzzing.