Embarassing... intake fell off top of motor and cracked-S4
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Embarassing... intake fell off top of motor and cracked-S4
So i was working on the motor today, and when i was rotating it around on the engine stand (T-style stand) to get at something, the whole motor slipped from my hands and wanted to find it's own spot to sit at because of it's center of gravity, so it rotated far enough over for the intake to fall off the top, which was just placed there (i took out the studs so nothing to hold it) and a piece cracked off right where one of the bolt holes for the side covers is.
Saw the intake lying there on the ground, grateful that the motor itself didn't tip the whole stand over and break something off. I was hoping that it landed on a side cover and maybe just one of the side covers cracked, but nope... whole new intake.
So... anyone got an S4 32V intake? Would a good two part epoxy work? Since the piece cracked off fairly clean. I built a boat with my Dad and we used West System epoxy, that stuff was literally like concrete once cured. In fact it was so strong you couldn't get it off concrete without chipping the concrete itself off!
Saw the intake lying there on the ground, grateful that the motor itself didn't tip the whole stand over and break something off. I was hoping that it landed on a side cover and maybe just one of the side covers cracked, but nope... whole new intake.
So... anyone got an S4 32V intake? Would a good two part epoxy work? Since the piece cracked off fairly clean. I built a boat with my Dad and we used West System epoxy, that stuff was literally like concrete once cured. In fact it was so strong you couldn't get it off concrete without chipping the concrete itself off!
#2
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Unless there's some contraindication to using it on Al-Mg alloy (or whatever the S4 intake is made out of), I'd have the intake utterly degreased and then JB-Weld it.
#3
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#4
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Yep. It's a miracle drug.
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So i was working on the motor today, and when i was rotating it around on the engine stand (T-style stand) to get at something, the whole motor slipped from my hands and wanted to find it's own spot to sit at because of it's center of gravity, so it rotated far enough over for the intake to fall off the top, which was just placed there (i took out the studs so nothing to hold it) and a piece cracked off right where one of the bolt holes for the side covers is.
Saw the intake lying there on the ground, grateful that the motor itself didn't tip the whole stand over and break something off. I was hoping that it landed on a side cover and maybe just one of the side covers cracked, but nope... whole new intake.
So... anyone got an S4 32V intake? Would a good two part epoxy work? Since the piece cracked off fairly clean. I built a boat with my Dad and we used West System epoxy, that stuff was literally like concrete once cured. In fact it was so strong you couldn't get it off concrete without chipping the concrete itself off!
Saw the intake lying there on the ground, grateful that the motor itself didn't tip the whole stand over and break something off. I was hoping that it landed on a side cover and maybe just one of the side covers cracked, but nope... whole new intake.
So... anyone got an S4 32V intake? Would a good two part epoxy work? Since the piece cracked off fairly clean. I built a boat with my Dad and we used West System epoxy, that stuff was literally like concrete once cured. In fact it was so strong you couldn't get it off concrete without chipping the concrete itself off!
Actually, pretty easy to weld. You should be able to find someone locally that has a TIG and knows how to do it.
__________________
greg brown
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#9
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I found the intake to be pretty porous and kind of potty. I wouldn't try to heat weld it, just JB weld, and grind the excess. There's JB weld on my 928, but I' not telling where.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
JB-Weld then? It's already been media blasted inside and out and ready to paint so i really want to keep it. Will get some pics today.
#12
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#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Farmed it out... didn't have a good compressor or blast pot at the time, plus to do it right with aluminum oxide costs alot. $200 bucks well spent, i told them to do the inside as well. It hasn't been flushed yet as painting weather isn't really here in Canada yet... still have about two feet here in Singhampton, plus the frost still has to sweat out and that'll take at least till May.
Bought an industrial unit for $650 bucks, 2 stage 2 cylinder inline, 5HP 80 gallon, should be about 20-25CFM. I built a pressure pot out of an old 8 gallon Cambell Hausfeld air compressor tank that i garbage picked, unit was close to brand new. Cut some holes, welded some fittings, and fabbed up a nice durable stand for it out of steel, with nice big wheels.
Bought an industrial unit for $650 bucks, 2 stage 2 cylinder inline, 5HP 80 gallon, should be about 20-25CFM. I built a pressure pot out of an old 8 gallon Cambell Hausfeld air compressor tank that i garbage picked, unit was close to brand new. Cut some holes, welded some fittings, and fabbed up a nice durable stand for it out of steel, with nice big wheels.
#14
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I occasionally "find" holes and thin spots, in these intakes, which we weld. Anyone that has welded magnesium and knows the tricks can easily weld up the problem.
"Cleaning" a manifold isn't adequate. You need to "attack" the inside corners and passages above the "bell openings" with a set of scrapers/dental tools. The amount of media that "hides" up in those areas is enough to "kill" 4 or 5 engines.
Scrape, high pressure wash. repeat 2-3 times. If you don't spend 3-4 hours, up in those corners, you aren't done....
Pistons/ring manufacturers are now warning people to not use silicon beads/sand on both aluminum cylinder heads and the tops of pistons, when removing carbon. The silicon beads/sand get "impacted" into the surface, only coming loose during heat cycles, ruining rings, pistons, and bores.
Think about how you are going to get that crap out of those ruunners that you can't reach or see.
This is a very real and common problem. We've used nothing but baking soda to clean heads and pistons for quite some time. Unfortunately, the coating in the intake manifolds "laughs" at baking soda.
"Cleaning" a manifold isn't adequate. You need to "attack" the inside corners and passages above the "bell openings" with a set of scrapers/dental tools. The amount of media that "hides" up in those areas is enough to "kill" 4 or 5 engines.
Scrape, high pressure wash. repeat 2-3 times. If you don't spend 3-4 hours, up in those corners, you aren't done....
Pistons/ring manufacturers are now warning people to not use silicon beads/sand on both aluminum cylinder heads and the tops of pistons, when removing carbon. The silicon beads/sand get "impacted" into the surface, only coming loose during heat cycles, ruining rings, pistons, and bores.
Think about how you are going to get that crap out of those ruunners that you can't reach or see.
This is a very real and common problem. We've used nothing but baking soda to clean heads and pistons for quite some time. Unfortunately, the coating in the intake manifolds "laughs" at baking soda.
#15
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Matt........Im in Canada also so your weather gives lots of time to do what needs to be done.
Read what Greg posted and follow to the T otherwise you'll be calling him for an engine.
Read what Greg posted and follow to the T otherwise you'll be calling him for an engine.