Kiln_Red

I'm going to try to make a long story as short as possible here. I own a hanfdul of 928s; a US '84 and three MY '85-'86 cars. I love the S3 cars. My dad rebuilt several totaled 928s in the early 90s. All of them went home to new happy owners except for the very last car; an '86 with 15K miles. The car was hit hard in the front end. We bought a front clip for it from an '81 Euro S and spliced in the right apron, refinished the engine bay, and refit the suspension. We then got a passenger door and right fender from the same source we had been using from Kansas IIRC. We had everything we needed except for a front bumper cover, hood, and windshield.. Or so we thought..

Then it was discoverred that, during the accident, the engine wiring harness got burnt up and the timing belt tensioner was broken. The belt was assumed to skip teeth. We pulled the covers and the belt literally fell off the passenger cam sprocket. In '95, we didn't know where to turn for an engine harness or heads/valves. The car quickly started looking like a bad investment. So away it went into the same basement it presently resides. Still incomplete. Unchanged from its condition in '95.

I have acquired virtually every part for the car that we didn't have then. I bought an '85 that had engine issues several years ago with no interest of saving it. The interior was in remarkable condition, so I transferred it to another 928 with a matching interior in very tired condition.

I have never had the motivation or the interest to rescue the '86 up until now. There is no question it would take time and money and that it would be easier to just go buy another S3 or even another S4, though I don't think that would satisfy me as well as finshing the abandoned '86 and consuming what is left of the '85 parts car. Earlier this evening, I refit an old water pump and a tensioner so that I could put the TB back in place and just as it came off. I realize the sprockets won't be in the exact position that they were, but I figured this would allow me to turn the #1 to TDC, see how far off the sprockets are, turn to 45 degrees, readjust the sprockets, and check compression. I just barely tensioned the belt before I decided to put it down and invite your opinions. Would you even bother, or would you just pull the engine and the heads? The engine is basically just resting on the mounts. It is fastened to the bellhousing, but we did have it out during the front end repairs.

Your thoughts?

Mrmerlin

put the belt on it and turn it over by hand ,
if it feels like you have compression on 8 cylinders then,
hook up the starter and battery do a compression check.
NOTE the oil lines will need to be connected to each other or attached to the cooler

Kiln_Red

Thanks for weighing in, Stan. I was hoping you'd share your thoughts. I take it you'd install the engine harness and fully button up the top end and radiator before doing anything else then? I wasn't feeling that optimistic about the heads BUT I like your oil cooler workaround as the radiator and coolers are out of the car in my attic. I have not ever changed the oil. It is filled to the top in ATF currently. Looks like it may be time to change that.

Kiln_Red

Assuming I HEAR compression when cranking over by hand of course..

Imo000

Do a leakdown test and you won't have to crank the engine over.

Mrmerlin

since the engine has been sitting as long as it has,
it would be best to exercise the valve train,
even still you may not get good compression unless the engine sees a few heat cycles.
OTOH if you have doubts about the cam timing being off at some point,
then you may have to figure that you have bent valves,
Thats why I suggested the things that I did

Mike Frye

When you said the engine was basically just 'sitting on the mounts' I thought in the other direction. When I did my MM/pan gasket and then promptly did the top end refresh on my car I thought: What a doof, I should have just pulled the damned engine and taken care of all of that stuff at one time and I could have cleaned up the engine bay and checked all the brake, coolant and PS lines at the same time.

For me, most of the stuff you described is over my head, body work is not part of my skill set. But a chance to pull an engine and work on it on the stand in my leisure time is like a zen experience for me (I have my Mercruiser 350 boat engine out for the second winter in a row, in my garage on a stand).

That's just my .928 cents though.

James Bailey

Odds are it does have bent valves.......leakdown test should let you know..

Kiln_Red

My thoughts as well. If it doesn't have bent valves, I'll go but a lottery ticket. I'm going to put another tensioner on tomorrow evening and give it a whirl. I'll include photos. I had another concern that the block may be toast from ancient coolant. Drained what little coolant was still in the block last night. What came out looked like straight water. Didn't know whether to think of that as a good thing or bad thing.

James Bailey

with the coolant level so low the head gaskets heads tops of the cylinders probably were well above the fluids so might be O K

Kiln_Red

I put a spare belt tensioner on the car and replaced the belt last night. I put it on just as it came off. Evidently, neither cam gear moved when the belt was removed because when I turned it to TDC BOTH cams lined up on the first turn! So immediately I felt hope. All of the spark plugs were removed and I proceeded to turn the engine over by hand. After a few resolutions, the compression was becoming obvious as each cylinder began shooting transmission fluid out of the spark plug hole on the compression stroke. I couldn't believe it. I think it is pretty safe to assume now that although the tensioner failed, the belt remained just tight enough during those crucial moments during the accident to prevent skipping teeth.

The bad news is that the portion of engine block that the tensioner mounts to was partially broken off. I could only use two bolts to keep the tensioner in place. So, if I actually take this on, I'll have a buddy TIG weld that up for me. At least I think would be the best possible repair. Any thoughts there?

I took a few quick pictures to show the state of the car as it has been for the past 20 years. I pulled the seats and carpets out to do some cleaning. They look and smell new as does the rest of the interior, but they had a good coat of dust on them.

The VIN is WP0JB0928GS861668 if anyone cares to decode it. I didn't realize this car was a later '86.

Kiln_Red

Pics

Imo000

Nice to be lucky sometimes!

Hilton

Options:

018 Sport steering wheel with elevated hub
158 Radio "Monterey" - 86 "Reno" - 87
418 Protective side mouldings
490 Hi-Fi sound system
494 2 speakers on back shelf
533 Alarm system
650 Sunroof

Frankly, I wouldn't bother restoring it unless you have massive sentimental attachment to it and expect to keep it for the rest of your days.

In your shoes, I'd run the motor and do warm compression/leakdown numbers first, to satisfy the unknown condition of the motor.

Then I'd part it out and use the proceeds plus restoration fund to buy a nice 5-speed, "Euro" 4.7, or if you definitely want to restore, a really early example.

I'd also consider using the brakes/suspension on your existing 928 ('83 IIRC?), although they're worth a fair bit as parts.

Kiln_Red

Hilton, there is no doubt that this car should have never been repaired. There is no sentimental connection to the car. That said, it would be a very hard one to part out considering the major amount of work that had already been invested. This car wouldn't have a big resale value as it suffered a major collision and the reality is it has sat up for 20 years. So the odometer reading has no value either. I wouldn't sell the car as I would have the expectations of deferred care catching up. No way I could pass that off on someone else.

I think it's the possibilities of what the car COULD be that has my interest. The hardest part has already been completed IMO.