Mrmerlin

Ken IDK if your aware of this point,
BUT,make sure to set the switch contact height to the steering wheel horn ring.

NOTE if its not done properly the brass tab will shear off.

To do this remove the lower column cover,
then with the wheel positioned set the switch so the tab just makes contact with the ring,

NOTE this is done while looking up from the bottom of the column.

I have a found more than a few brand new switches with freshly sheared off brass tabs,
coincidentally the tabs are sold separately, but are a pain to fit as the swages have to be remade.

NOTE the switch should be set whenever the pod has been removed as this usually requires switch removal

KenRudd

Will check/confirm clearance. Thx!

KenRudd

Refinished the exhaust tips. They are stainless, as is the muffler, but much of the weld is not, and the stainless was not highly polished, so the whole thing looked a little dingy and out of place. Decided to go all flat black, since there is no other exterior chrome, etc. Dremeled off most of the weld splatter, wire wheeled everything, primed then painted in VHT Exhaust flat black.

Before:


During/prep:



After:



BTW, this is still the exhaust system from Rob Rositto's '85. Via 928 Intl.

KenRudd

Also replaced a split tie rod boot ( Thanks Roger!). Sorry, no "after" shot:

Gary Knox

Ken,

That intake finish looks superb. GREAT work.

PS: Don't pick on us 'old fogeys' who drive with the turn signal on!! Keep on breathing and turning calendar pages and you'll be 'HERE' sometime!! - HA

KenRudd

8 new plugs installed.
The old WR7DC's:

Mrmerlin

plugs look good

PorKen

I'd use colder - WR5DC, especially on a race car.

KenRudd

The replacements are indeed WR5DC's.

KenRudd

There was some oilish deposits in places. Two of them had just barely exceed the specified gap range.
I didn't see anything that really surprises or worries me, but sharper eyes are welcome to chime in.

KenRudd

DE Alignment.

KenRudd

While researching the Oil Consumption issue I figured I would tackle another minor issue I discovered while checking clutch wear and adjustment.

The clutch pedal spring was broken. This is not immediately ovious untill you really look and unless you know how a 928 clutch should feel:



The clutch had been very firm as along as I can remember, so I assumed it was normal.

Except for folding my 6'5" frame into the foot well, the replacement was pretty straightforward. Adjustment is covered on page 30-1 of the WSM.



Much less force now required to depress and hold the clutch now. Stop and go traffic will be a wee bit less of a hassle.

PorKen

Also note the master cylinder pre-load (this was added in the WSM at some point).

And the ghost clutch stop (early pedals have the boss on the pedal, only, late pedals are smooth).

KenRudd

Semi-repost from Oil Consumption thread, just to keep this thread complete.

Compression and leak down tests on 21-JUN-14

Compression numbers as follows. #3 obviously merits attention:
#1=190
#2=202
#3=110
#4=180
#5=192
#6=200
#7=195
#8=200

So I tackled the leakdown test.

#3 looked like this:


Because I understand leakdown is more of a comparative analysis than an absolute number, here are the other cylinders:

#1:


#2:


#4:


#5:


#6:


#7:

KenRudd

Borescope of #3