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Driver (& Pass) Door Handle Hinge Replacement - How To w/ Photos (long)

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Driver (& Pass) Door Handle Hinge Replacement - How To w/ Photos (long)

 
Old 09-18-2013, 05:13 PM
  #31  
9two8
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Originally Posted by Alan View Post
Mine was instantaneous and I'd expect that to be fairly normal from the configuration and ultimate classic failure - one day it worked fine the next day nothing. Still moves freely ~ as normal - bit looser at rear end...

Now failure could also be due to handle looseness and in that case missaiignment could lead to increased operating pressure - also stressing the hinge and leading to failure. I'd expect you'd be able to feel some lateral handle movement in this case though ...

Alan
I think your correct Alan regarding handle looseness, and your reply refreshed my memory. I distinctly remember as I said., that the handle had not been working correctly for some time, but previous to that I had to tighten the handle carrier as I found the nuts fairly loose, and remember thinking that was the problem of the sticky handle, when in fact the carrier was already badly fractured, and tightening the nuts helped it down the slippery slope to total lockout, which happened sometime later.

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Old 09-20-2013, 08:43 PM
  #32  
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ken, rick,

+1 on your comments. was harder and harder to open (had to pull up to make sure it would unlatch)....

and then

I' m in the middle of mine, just got to get the pesky power lock mechanism out of the way.

Happy Friday all!
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:53 AM
  #33  
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............ With the window up - loosen (do not remove) the bolt behind the bottom left of the security plate - Look underneath. The plate can rotate forward from under the bolt... This one was extremely awkward...took me 15 minutes to figure out what size it was (here's 15 minutes back... its a 13mm head).............

Thank you Alan

Great write up. Replaced passenger door handle yesterday. Took 2 hours start to finish following advise from Alan. If I may add one bit of information it is that for re-installing the tie rod these two tools make it easier to snap the ball onto to tie rod (a small pliers and an angled trim screw driver)

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Old 05-28-2014, 01:14 AM
  #34  
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Great Write-Up! Now a question or two which could only really happen to a newbie... (I hope):

-DS Door Panel Off: This was easy as shop already had it off!!!

-Easy Access Screws: Check!

-13mm Bolt: And I'm lost...

Can't find it. Got security plate loose, but could tell it was still being caught up- but couldn't see or feel where.

(Wait, it gets better...)

Noticing a few differences between the images and my door, I attempted to remove (electric) lock motor (as mentioned in other guides on this topic...). Got it to wiggle, down and to the right (facing DS door interior from driver's seat). Just a little bit...

And then I removed the door latch mechanism. I'm not sure _why_I did this- perhaps to remove lock mechanism? I'm not sure.


Anyhoo... try as I might to remove electric motor (as I think it is in images)- and no such luck.


So I decide to throw in the towel- temporarily, anyway...

Re-install latch mechanism (wait for it...)

Replace easy access screws. Heck, even checked red door light & window operation.

Leaving window down (yep), I closed the door.


VERY IMPORTANT TIP: If you are ever in a situation where you have removed the latch mechanism- for whatever reason- make sure it works BEFORE you close your door.


That said, two questions:

1) Where is this elusive 13mm bolt? (working on my '84 S (US) Especially in relationship to one or two known points, if at all possible.

And... as I am about to search rennlist....

2) Any pointers on getting my door open? Or should I start practicing the Dukes of Hazzard maneuver?
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Old 05-28-2014, 01:22 AM
  #35  
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Sorry I dont have any input for getting the door open.

However I do want to mention that I to just finnished up the same repair following Alans write up.

My car being an 87 was a bit diffrent from Alans car, my lock motor mechanism was in the way also. In the pics Alan provided his door lock mech appears to be more forward and out of the way, however on the older cars its smack dab right in the way!

While it is a bit more tricky getting the security plate out with the mech in place it can be done. Just takes a lot of wiggling and cursing!

I was indeed able to get it out without messing with the door lock motor.

Just wanted to point that out.
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by yaskota View Post
1) Where is this elusive 13mm bolt? (working on my '84 S (US) Especially in relationship to one or two known points, if at all possible.
The pictures of the plate should make it clear relative to your plate - it is behind the plate - left end at the bottom. Get a small mirror (raid the make-up drawer...) and a small flashlight - you should be able to see it.

I think this is doable for all years as described based on what we have heard so far - yes some are a little bit different - but you should just follow the guide to avoid 'new' issues like this. Removing more than you need to on mating parts always runs the risk of significant extra alignment issues. With something like the locks you can end up with multiple compounding alignment adjustments to optimize - ALWAYS avoid that if you can.

Hopefully the latch isn't too missaligned - you need to pull the release that the handle is connected to.

Alan
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:25 AM
  #37  
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Aloha Alan!

Thank you for your posts and reply... In the process of getting my DS door open (still in progress)- I noticed a bolt which just might be attached to the security plate!

Just curious, does the head surface of the 13mm bolt run parallel to the front of the car and is positioned between plate and interior side of door? (With, I think, door latch mechanism just aft of bolt?)

-tom
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:06 PM
  #38  
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Again the Photos really should help - pay attention to what is what:

Your security plate should look very much like ths one in situ:



When removed: from the front and in the same orientation wrt the door (left end near the latch mechanism):



Turned around - rear view (right end near the latch mechanism):



Here is a picture of the 13mm bolt that secures the little arm off the back of the security plate:



Note that here the black item under/to the right of the bolt is the door reinforcement beam (USA only?). The bolt is in the same orientation as the door handle bolts (head parallel to door surface). You can see elements of the lock cable releases & linkages .

Alan
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:09 PM
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Hmmm... something doesn't seem right. Or is it me? (And no, it's not that the locking mechanism is in view.)

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Old 05-29-2014, 02:51 PM
  #40  
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Yes its a little different...

If it has the same arrangement see this below.

You really need a flashlight and mirror to figure out what's back there

Alan
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Old 06-03-2014, 01:38 AM
  #41  
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Update/Resolved:

In taking Eleonore for a few things I needed help with (like bolts I couldn't loosen), checking horn function, finishing safety, AC Recharge, new lower hood latch receiver, etc.... Turns out DS door was just stuck after my moving latch out of alignment (not paying attention!).

Though I was really hoping to tackle my interior door hinge (honest!), they jumped on it. It is fixed and working well- and I am very appreciative of this!
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Old 06-03-2014, 01:40 AM
  #42  
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Oh, and of course, Mahalo Alan for your all your Kokua! I will indeed try this on my own though so I know I can next time... ;-)
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:58 AM
  #43  
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[QUOTE=WyattsRide;10767978]I totally agree with the above statement. For weeks/month prior to complete failure the handle became more and more difficult to open. When the car was cold (just out of the garage) the handle seemed to work, but when when sitting out in the heat of the day, the handle did not work. Finally after a spirited drive on some bumpy roads I heard a rattle in the door (one side of latch inside completely broke off) and the handle no longer worked at all. I was told in another thread that if the handle gets harder and harder to work, it was inevitable a complete failure is coming. Exactly what happened.

QUOTE]

The bolded is precisely what I am experiencing. The question for the group is: can it be saved before it breaks? Is there an adjustment, lube or something else that can be done to keep it from breaking? It sounds like something is right on the hairy edge of working if the heat of the day is enough to go from working to not working.

I am looking forward to doing this repair, not!
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:16 AM
  #44  
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[QUOTE=928wolf;11508746]
Originally Posted by WyattsRide View Post
I totally agree with the above statement. For weeks/month prior to complete failure the handle became more and more difficult to open. When the car was cold (just out of the garage) the handle seemed to work, but when when sitting out in the heat of the day, the handle did not work. Finally after a spirited drive on some bumpy roads I heard a rattle in the door (one side of latch inside completely broke off) and the handle no longer worked at all. I was told in another thread that if the handle gets harder and harder to work, it was inevitable a complete failure is coming. Exactly what happened.

QUOTE]

The bolded is precisely what I am experiencing. The question for the group is: can it be saved before it breaks? Is there an adjustment, lube or something else that can be done to keep it from breaking? It sounds like something is right on the hairy edge of working if the heat of the day is enough to go from working to not working.

I am looking forward to doing this repair, not!
..., nothing you can do IMHO, it,s the two mounting bolt holes on the carrier that develop over time a stress fracture, which eventually, breaks off usually just the one hole at least it was with mine, hole nearest door edge. It has been mentioned to use a "technique" to open the door, but this is,nt necessary really, as mine failed after 25 years, so a new one should last you out.


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Old 07-15-2014, 12:45 PM
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Once it starts exhibiting issues - its already broken & bending - it just hasn't cracked all the way through yet - I think there is no way to save it at that point - most of the strength has already been lost and any kind of use is likely enough to finish it off.

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