Tony

I cant get power to the light on my "O"..odometer reset switch. When i push the button the odometer resets. When i have the parking lights or headlights on, i would assume the **** should illuminate.

The LED checks good from a seperate power source.

I'm tracing the circuit on the diagrams now but any ideas in the meantime

Tony

...uh...i had forgot to hook up the dimmer.

I just bypassed it with a small jumper wire and all is good again. The dimmer is obviously in line with the back lighting on the pod...HVAC...clock..etc...

now to solder in the resistors ...although i like it bright it may be a bit too bright at night.

Ed Scherer

Looking good, Tony. The LEDs are a huge improvement, especially in the cluster.

BTW, the dimmer modules are really close to done. I'm making some enclosures tonight, in fact. I really think I'm finally about one to two weeks away from shipping a few.

If you you plan to use one of the dimmer modules, then while you've got your cluster off, run a brown ground wire (and maybe a few spares; they're handy to have around when installing new stuff!) to the grounding point (MP IV) under the left side of the cluster. Or maybe on your MY, it's easy to do that later, too. For dimmer module installation, you'll need to get to the rheostat connections, and you'll need a ground wire. As it turns out, it'll actually be easier on the old rheostat models (-89) than the newer ones (90-) due to the use of readily available quick disconnect terminals on the old rheostats.

Tony

hi Ed...can you clarify the purpose of the resistors on the pod switches.

is it to establish a preset level of brightness when the lights are turned. from that level the dimmer would take them dimmer but never any brighter.....i think that is the reason.

with my lights off, the only switch lit is for the headlights....as it should be. I dont have any other "residual" voltage that would cause any other pod light to light up or faintly glow.

my hazard unit (87s4) has two black/blue wires...do i place a resistor on both.

thnx

Ed Scherer

The resistors preserve the functionality of the back-lighting being at two intensity levels based on the state of the switch (or function related to the switch). This is separate from the overall dimming achieved by the dimmer rheostat. Without the resistors, with the dimmer rheostat set to full intensity, you wouldn't be able to distinguish between the on/off states. These resistors are actually just adding resistance to already-present resistors in the switches that are—after replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs—of too small resistance to have any significant effect on the lower-current-drawing LEDs. If you look at the WSM schematics, you'll see those already-present-in-the-switches resistors in the internals of the switch (they're just shown as rectangles with unspecified resistance, always wired to terminal 58 that the BK/BL wires connect to).

In the case of any switches with two BK/BL wires, the resistor goes between the switch contact and the two wires (the two existing wires are just daisy chaining to elsewhere and you want to preserve that connection without any resistance).