Lizard928

If you want some Recoated/more durable ones Ken I can bring them by/meet in Portland.
I will need a decent set to exchange them though.

Speedtoys

...I think he should come down with ya...




Hotel info in Inbox.

Lizard928

Not a bad idea.
Try to convince him not me!

Got it.

PorKen

Might try this, first.

Speedtoys

Ken:

I will get you free track time for the weekend


Love, NASA & Jeff.

Lizard928

And yes you can just undo the three front bolts and the front cover comes off allowing for easiest replacement.

PorKen

Cool. That upper cover bolt hole is stripped, too. Much easier to put a heli-coil in there on the bench!

Stromius

Got an extra one! PM me your address.

Leon Speed

Love the smell of broken hall sender in the morning.

PorKen

To match the timing at high rpm, which would normally be retarded somewhat, the Racing belt may need some static retard put in?

Dyno runs will tell, I guess. If the torque/hp split is lopsided towards torque, then too advanced.

MFranke

The shorter Hall sensor pigtail should fit the original configuration. It will just have no room to spare. Access is really tight.
I found it easier to bend the plug bracket slightly and pre-assemble the sensor to the bracket ensuring the pigtail grommet is seated correctly on the bracket lip. If your cam cover is off it is easier but the upper hall screw may interfere with cam cover installation.... so will the engine hook. You can place the top hall screw first to hold it in position. Install the lower screw, and then remove the top screw again so you can then reinstall the cam cover.

MFranke

Also, you should be able to remove the engine hook mounting bolt from the top of the engine if you use a gear wrench or similar with a swivel head. Let it soak well before breaking it.

PorKen

Thanks much, Stefan!

Thanks, Mark. When I have the assembly apart, I will see about modifying the bracket.

I don't think the original 928 hall sensor with the longer wire is available.



I can't wait to do some PorKen-izing on this B.
I have forgotten how much stuff is in the way on a stock engine.
Vapor recovery plumbing, CO tubes, secondary air injection...

Now that I can't get it going at least until mid-week, that -stuff- is tasking me.

Maybe time to start replacing all the bolts with flange head, too (to match the PKT).

PorKen

It looks like Rob's ST2 is otherwise engaged (thanks anyways Rob)...



It may take a bit longer for me to get up to speed on LH2.3 chips - but only a bit.

Most S4s are basically stock, with maybe an X-pipe, so a complete retune is silly.
The ST is geared more for higher HP/MAF volts, losing resolution for stock+ fueling, anyway.
(Even the stock chip goes too high, I found with S3 chips.)



There are only a few variations I see at this point.
Auto, manual, and maybe some adjustment for late '88-up, higher compression types.

I'm surprised no one has come out with at least a 24# inj chip, so far.



What I need now is brains... LH and EZK BINs to be exact.
PM or email me with any you have any, please!
Comparing the different years makes it much easier to figure things out.
(For S3/LH2.2, I used SAAB, Volvo along with all of the 928 versions.)


I may start a LH2.3/EZK XDF/Tunerpro thread soon to discuss the development of a XDF.
At some point I will develop custom programming, so my path will diverge, but I will likely make a general editor like I did for 2.2.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...f-xdf-tp5.html


Here is a cool site I just came across, BTW - http://www.jetronic.info/wiki/tiki-index.php

Tom. M

Chris has a page with some bin files... worth a look..

http://www.928s4.com/lh/lh_homepage.htm