JHowell37

You can disconnect a line from the cooler at the front and blow it out with compressed air at low pressure. It may make a mess at the back so be prepared. Once the disconnected line is blown out, blow air through the inlet on the cooler and it will clear out the cooler and the other line. Again, use low pressure (i.e. 20PSI.)

dcrasta

The resevoir has a plastic locking ring that screws in the normal direction (lefty loosen, righty tighen) so you will loosen the ring.. Once the ring is off, the reservoir slides off to the right.

There is an Oring (special size) that slips in there between the locking ring and the reservoir. Make sure you do not lose this special order porsche only part.

The reservoir / skid plate[stone protector] should be removed first from the pan, this is removed by the two small hex bolts (these bolts are very very small and do not accept much torque so be careful).

Clean with hot soapy water if you wish. There is also a rubber gasket sealing the cap to the reservoir.

I used Permatex semihardening gasket / thread-sealer when I reassembled this. I packed the lockring threads , slid this onto the pan 'pipe', followed by the oring, followed by the reservoir. THen after attaching the stone-guard and locking the reservoir into place, I added more threadsealer on the pipe and sealed it up by screwing the lockring (with the oring in place between the lockring and the 'pipe'). I let this sit overnight before adding fluid. I have no leaks.

To do this 'correctly', you could replace the Oring. According to the PET [porsche Classic parts online] this is # 477-321-487. I believe it was 10~ bucks but I didnt want to wait.

A lot of leaks can come from the pan. The Pan bolts were torqued to 100 inch pounds [the spec is 5-7 footpounds] Do this in 3 steps 1st finger tight, second 75 inch pounds, third to 100 inch pounds. Using blue loctite I did this and was able to have a leak free pan so far.

Lots of brake cleaner and compressed air to dry things will be your friend

Oh last thing. Gasket goes on dry, do not use sealant (you may get away with a extrememly thin smear of SuperBlack or something like 'Yamabond 4' on the pan -/ Gasket side. Make sure the smear is super thin and it goes on once it skins.. (but not too soon, or too late.). I used no sealant per the FSM.

1989porsche928

WTF Toque Convertor!!! I spent a while trying to get the drain plugged lines up with the window. Lines up finally, but I did break a allen key trying to loosen it. Any tips? I am thinking of buying some penetraing fluid and spraying it heavily then rotating it to the top so it can fall in, i doubt it will work.

Mrmerlin

it sounds like a trip to sears is in your near future buy a set of craftsman allen sockets in these sizes 3,4,5,6,8,10
your tools stripping out heads and snapping tell me you need a tool upgrade

FiveElements

My 89 car has a perfect working 4speed auto. I have an extra 88 trani. I was planning on putting the 88 one in due to the taller gearing. Do u want to buy it? Or my 89 trani once I swap it? Both are in excellent & well cared for shape.

1989porsche928

strange, last i sprayed penetrant on the bolt in the torque convertor then rotated the engine so the bolt is on top, then this morning I drove to autozone to buy a set of allen socketts. Rotated the engine so the drain plug was in the window. Then with ease I was able to take off the drain plug. It was like that foreign knock off tool my friend let me borrow gave its life to break the torque.

JHowell37

I sent you a few PMs.

lonnie77

I had installed an 88’ transmission in my 87’ and it would not shift out of 1st. When I had it rebuilt it was a small gear, I think it was the helical gear (pg 37 – 150). Its been a few years ago and I cannot find the invoice. I'll keep looking for it.