UncleMaz

Either that way or Sean R's method of pumping the slave 20 or 30 times are great ways to reverse bleed. Also, I would also check for fractures in the hard line that runs from the clutch master to the slave. Just this weekend we experienced this on a a 79 car from repeated clutch cover/slave removal. Genikz also had this issue and each of us only realized this after hours of attempted bleeding.

mark kibort

[QUOTE=MJ928;9945207]Either that way or Sean R's method of pumping the slave 20 or 30 times are great ways to reverse bleed. Also, I would also check for fractures in the hard line that runs from the clutch master to the slave. Just this weekend we experienced this on a a 79 car from repeated clutch cover/slave removal. Genikz also had this issue and each of us only realized this after hours of attempted bleeding.[/QUOTE
wouldnt you see some fluid around ?? I dont think the hard line is a problem, but i wouldnt rule out anything yet. the pressure bleeder seem to get the fluid out and seem to a decent job . I'm thinking the slave is the issue, in thinking though the problem.

mark kibort

Greg,

again, all the H adusters are just as i left them 3 years ago. locked in position. alll dowels accounted for. all gaps still the 1mm i left them at. agian, the ONLY issue the H adjusters will ever have being locked in position, willl be if the discs whear more than .5mm......... that aint going to happen, due to fact that after near 10 years, i can still see the writing on the discs themselves with the part number ink showing.
so, your FUD is a little off and unwarrented. dont use your position here to advice irrisponsibly. your concern is unjustified and incorrect, clearly. You are an amazingly smart guy, so dont guess when you dont know the answer to a problem

also, back to the wear patterns of the destroyed discs shown. the pressure plate and rear disc will always fail first, especially if you are a clutch dragger. the pressure plate starts the force and its progressive from that point moving toward the INT and then the flywheel.

anyway, just bought at new Slave cylinder. should have it by tomorrow. I found a new master, that was in my racer part bag i take to the track. what is the part numbrer that is correct for it?? are their differences from a new S4 to a 84 US??? or are all the masters the same?

thanks

Mk

Dutch 928 fan

With #2 I indeed meant what Micheal's picture is showing. As the clutch and brake fluid comes from the same reservoir, when you depress the brake pedal, the fluid is pushed into the slave and UPWARDS to the reservoir. Advantages: no power bleeder needed, and, more impotantly, air in a fluid naturally flows up. Air bubbles are just pushed through the system to the reservoir where they escape.
With #3 I meant that I loosened the locknut on the spring adjuster on the clutch pedal. There is a thread somewhere that lists the parameters for the set up. Cant find that thread right now, but iirc the measurements were different for different model years. A proper set up pushes the pedal back just beyond the tipping point, while at the same time not having to use too much force to depress.
I was amazed how accurate the set up needs to be for a proper feel in the pedal. Anything off by a couple millimeter or more was definately noticeable or would result in the pedal staying down all too easily...
Hated to work upside down in the footwell though, but worth the effort.

Good luck and I hope to read a positive result soon!
Leo 1984 S2 euro 5 spd

Dutch 928 fan

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-fixed-2.html


Here it is: see picture in the thread, 43mm for the pedal helper spring adjustment. And preload the clutch pedal to the rod that pushes in.

Leo

mark kibort

I remembrer doing this along time ago on the Holbert car. then again to replace that bushing that was destroyed or was not even stock. Jim bailey helped with that. we were laughing as to how porsche put the holbert car together in this area. with the right part, the feel was much better. anyway, I adjsuted, so that the pedal would just rise by itself, and not more spring pressure than that.

interesting to see how you did this. makes sense, but i think the power bleeder should be enough. plus, i dont have the lines to do this techique. makes sense. also think you could do this with some compressed air, a fitting and a littlle reservior of fluid and a feed tube. the pedal feels good now, but i think its the slave, or some leaky seals in the master, but that makes no sense, because a fully depressed clutch pedal doesnt drag the clutch over time with the high revs. i understand the check valve is in the master,not the slave. So, the ONLY think that is off here, that is KNOWN , is the slave doesnt push the pushrod out to full , normal distance. its acting like the spring is bad. if that distance was dictated by the master, i would point to that, but the slave pushes the pushrod out and since its falling short, by 1-2 ", im thinking that spring also keeps pressure on the push rod so a little vibration cant push the push rod back in when the check valve allows fluid to go back to the reservior. (same as brakes when the pedal is not depressed.)

this i think is the problem. certainly not due to the H adjusters locked in to perfect position.

ill have the new slave on after it arrives tomorrow. and we will see.

thanks for all the input

the flyin' scotsman

...

mark kibort

OK, Just got back from a comprehensive test. partially depressed in neutral, the clutch pedal doesnt go down, proving the check valve in the master is working, and that its something induced by the clutch pack and T/O bearing , fork assembly to the actuator rod. only happens when the vibration allows for the slave rod to be pushed back in slightly due to vibration. since we know the rod doesnt fully extend, it needs viagra or to be replaced with a younger slave.

tomorrow will be the determimnation, but i am willing to bet that the slave is the problem based on the symptoms.

mark kibort

did you try power bleeder and some hand held pedal cycles too? that seemed to work. anyway, i dont have the extra brake line, so ill do it the old fashon way and see what i get. is there a way to prime the slave? put fluid in it so the bleed is a little less time consuming? I was thinking about putting the end in a pool of brake fluid , with the shaft all the way in and let the springs draw fluid into the assembly. that way when you go to bleed it, you are half way there to start.

the flyin' scotsman

...

Charley B

https://rennlist.com/forums/4755416-post1.html

mark kibort

Thanks! Yep, have to use racing fluid or that will be a problem! SuperBlue is some fairly good stuff. been racing it for years.

good idea on the pressure bleed and reverse bleed. Ill see if i can rig up something.

Dutch 928 fan

All you need is a plastic or some rubber hose long enough to route from brake caliper nipple to slave nipple. Local hardware store or autoparts store. I used an old rubber fuel hose.

You can even do a road side bleed. Or track pits bleed.
Did you get the slave installed?
Leo.

mark kibort

It will be here with UPS today. early afternoon. i got to think that HAS to be IT!!

then, im going to drive it up to sears point (Sonoma Raceway) and hang out with a team owner that needs an instructor this weekend. maybe by luck, i can swindle a license and get out there a race or do a time trial , so bringing my stuff just in case! worst case, the race car is the BEST for long trips. still one of the best road cars ever, even in race form!!!

mark kibort

UGGGGGGGG 4 hours later, stilll no clutch !! i cant bleed the darn thing. all the stuff i use is breaking around me.. the bleeder broke, tried to repair it, but it leaks at the seal still at the reservior. (mcgivered it)
but no pedal!!! ahhhhhhhh! and i got the wrong one. (S4 and 84 version) i need the '80 version because i have the old style lower bell housing, so i had to bend the lines very carefully to adapt . took about an hour to mount it up. the two types are 90 degrees out of mechanical angle Now, its all mounted, and i hope there is no difference between the pushrods or the slave. dont think there is , but you never know. anywayy, i cant get it to bleed.

i guess i might have to rig up the reverse bleed. why is this so hard!!!!!

hate this kind of stuff!

help!!! what about the two man technique. press down, close valve, repeat, etc.???????

i got to go to sears in the morning! ahhhhhhh!